Recommendation? Double bit refurbishment

[scdub]

Hey Folks,

A couple of days ago I found an old Collins brand double bit head.

I’ve never owned a double bit so I’m excited to try it out.

I already got the old handle plug and the two metal wedges removed and have removed most of the rust with naval jelly and some fine steel wool. It’s just over 3 pounds with asymmetric bits, and based on some quick research it looks like this head is from the 60’s or earlier and therefore of good quality but nothing special. I plan to use it.

Here’s how it looked 5 minutes ago:





This is beside my only other full-sized axe for reference - an old Craftsman that I ALSO happened to find as just an axe head.

I’ve got a few questions that I’d like to pose here - I’m looking for both correct answers and pure opinions/speculation.

1) What’s a good source for a handle? I’ve checked a couple of local hardware stores but the 4 double-bit handles they had between them were all pretty bad re: grain orientation/runout. I’m hoping to avoid starting from scratch but not completely opposed to that either.

1.5) If I end up with a choice - how long a handle would you suggest?

2) How much should I worry about/address rust on the inside of the eye? I scrubbed much of it out with the naval jelly but haven’t started using sandpaper or anything…

3) Besides sharpening, I was planning to clean up the spine and bottom portion where the eye was scuffed when the handle was cut off with a saw sometime in the past. Is there anything else I should do before mounting the head?

4) The first pic shows the wedges that I removed. Should I just reuse them or get different/stainless ones? Should I use both of them initially or reserve one for future head tightening?

That’s what’s on my mind but there are likely other things I’m not thinking about so feel free to offer other advice that you might have.

Thanks!

 

[Hickory n steel]

Looks like a pretty good hang.
One thing to keep in mind for next time is to size your wedge to the eye and not to the handle.
This is a good way to fill the gaps when your handle doesn't quite fit the eye all the way end to end.

 

[EngrSorenson]

I resist chainsaws whenever possible so I can work solo and slowly (and with a phone, radio, quick-clot and tourniquet on my body).

Chopping wood, by myself, in the forest, is the best.

I’m the same way, though I think I should look into quick clot and a tourniquet. it’s slow, but it’s about the only exercise I actively seek out. I’m burning a half cord this year that I fell, bucked and split last year. Really satisfying.

 

[catspa]

Good work, man! Now it’s happy.

Parker

 

[scdub]

Fine tuning:

 

[Alocksly]

"Chopping wood, by myself, in the forest, is the best. "

Yes, yes it is.

 

[scdub]

Just a quick update for safety just in case anybody decides to make similar blade covers.

FYI - After using the covers for awhile I switched out the shock cord for some paracord. The shock cord was quick to use, but it allowed the covers to be bumped off pretty easily. Tying them on with paracord is much more secure.

Head is still tight after a few more hours of chopping.



Good cardio!

 

[scdub]

Another update on the blade covers:

I still wasn’t satisfied with the security of the covers. Securing the paracord with a bow just didn’t allow me to tighten them enough.

I found a better solution in the form of an MSR guy line tensioner - a little aluminum ring with three holes drilled into it which cord can pass through. (Note: the little double-knotted fob in the pics doesn’t pass through one of these holes - just the ring itself…).

It’s designed primarily to tension guy lines on tents and I purchased several of them at an REI years ago. This works much better - gets tight and goes on and off pretty quickly.

 

[Miller '72]

Another update on the blade covers:

I still wasn’t satisfied with the security of the covers. Securing the paracord with a bow just didn’t allow me to tighten them enough.

I found a better solution in the form of an MSR guy line tensioner - a little aluminum ring with three holes drilled into it which cord can pass through. (Note: the little double-knotted fob in the pics doesn’t pass through one of these holes - just the ring itself…).

It’s designed primarily to tension guy lines on tents and I purchased several of them at an REI years ago. This works much better - gets tight and goes on and off pretty quickly.

View attachment 2056820View attachment 2056821View attachment 2056819View attachment 2056818View attachment 2056817

I really like the idea of using what you know and this is a great fit application!

Keep on!

 

[kvaughn]

Hey Folks,

A couple of days ago I found an old Collins brand double bit head.

I’ve never owned a double bit so I’m excited to try it out.

I already got the old handle plug and the two metal wedges removed and have removed most of the rust with naval jelly and some fine steel wool. It’s just over 3 pounds with asymmetric bits, and based on some quick research it looks like this head is from the 60’s or earlier and therefore of good quality but nothing special. I plan to use it.

Here’s how it looked 5 minutes ago:

View attachment 1988574
View attachment 1988562View attachment 1988561
View attachment 1988560View attachment 1988558View attachment 1988565

This is beside my only other full-sized axe for reference - an old Craftsman that I ALSO happened to find as just an axe head.

I’ve got a few questions that I’d like to pose here - I’m looking for both correct answers and pure opinions/speculation.

1) What’s a good source for a handle? I’ve checked a couple of local hardware stores but the 4 double-bit handles they had between them were all pretty bad re: grain orientation/runout. I’m hoping to avoid starting from scratch but not completely opposed to that either.

1.5) If I end up with a choice - how long a handle would you suggest?

2) How much should I worry about/address rust on the inside of the eye? I scrubbed much of it out with the naval jelly but haven’t started using sandpaper or anything…

3) Besides sharpening, I was planning to clean up the spine and bottom portion where the eye was scuffed when the handle was cut off with a saw sometime in the past. Is there anything else I should do before mounting the head?

4) The first pic shows the wedges that I removed. Should I just reuse them or get different/stainless ones? Should I use both of them initially or reserve one for future head tightening?

That’s what’s on my mind but there are likely other things I’m not thinking about so feel free to offer other advice that you might have.

Thanks!

I have the same axe head and was recently told on here that the asymetrical head was a forging mistake.
I'm not going to go to trouble of finding the post but apparently the person was wrong.
I did go to the trouble.
January 17-Squarepeg.

 

[Miller '72]

I have the same axe head and was recently told on here that the asymetrical head was a forging mistake.
I'm not going to go to trouble of finding the post but apparently the person was wrong.
I did go to the trouble.
January 17-Squarepeg.

Likely any asymmetrical double bit head is going to be from use, wear, Sharpening, abuse.
The factory would send out a head of any double pattern to have the bits symmetrical.
The Sharpening geometry of each bit should and would be different for the intended purpose of each bit. Felling, splitting, bucking, clearing brush from the base to make a safe felling area for the feller. Any and all combination, and certainly not limited to the listed purposes.
Perhaps that helps K kvaughn but i do not know what the context of discussion, or thread in which you are referring.
Perhaps also there are double bit axes out there that i am unaware or escape me now that did come from the factory asymmetrical...this raises an interesting question.
Anyhow, best of luck and Axe On!

 

[scdub]

I have the same axe head and was recently told on here that the asymetrical head was a forging mistake.
I'm not going to go to trouble of finding the post but apparently the person was wrong.
I did go to the trouble.
January 17-Squarepeg.

No idea!

To be clear I was describing the relative thickness of the edges. One is substantially thinner than the other, so that’s the one I keep extra sharp for most chopping. I use the more obtuse “grubbing” bit if I think I’m likely to hit the ground or for splitting (which I haven’t yet done with this axe).

Anyway I don’t know if the edges came from the factory like that or not…

 

[Square_peg]

I have the same axe head and was recently told on here that the asymetrical head was a forging mistake.
I'm not going to go to trouble of finding the post but apparently the person was wrong.
I did go to the trouble.
January 17-Squarepeg.

I stand by that, thank you.

 

[crbnSteeladdict]

I stand by that, thank you.

Never seen a pic of actual example

 

[Miller '72]

Never seen a pic of actual example

Whoa look at that Rixford!! Now I do recall seeing pictures, i wonder if these are the same images.
Excellent work C crbnSteeladdict !

Combination Pattern

 

[Square_peg]

I have seen a Collins that that one bit was forged thicker than the other.

With a Collins that was a flaw not a feature.

I have the same axe head and was recently told on here that the asymetrical head was a forging mistake.
I'm not going to go to trouble of finding the post but apparently the person was wrong.
I did go to the trouble.
January 17-Squarepeg.

Show us the Collins.
After Mann bought Collins they used the brand to market their low end axes and factory seconds that they wouldn't sell with the Mann name on them. Mann-Collins was the same homeowner junk as Norlund.