Double-bits--do you hone both bits to a keen edge?

T

thunderstick

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Jan 15, 2007
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What is your preference--two keen edges or do you keep one more convex for knots and utility work? and why do you prefer it?
 
I keep both edges of my beloved Plumb Cruiser as sharp as I can get em.
I can certainly see the merits of two edges if I were using it for a living or even had the experience to know exactly which edge to choose at every swing, but I just use mine for camping and light splitting here at the house.
For serious splitting and/or knotty stuff I use the splitting axe or even the dreaded maul and wedges. :(

I do have an affliction for the old DB's though, so I'll be interested in seeing what those with more knowledge on the subject have to say.
Good thread,
Charlie
 
I have a friend, a little older than I am, around 65+ who used to work for the USDA Forest Service. He told me that many would use a thinner ground bit for chopping in knot free wood. They would also have the other bit ground thicker for chopping near the base of a tree, knots and logs that may have dirt/sand in the bark. Both bits would be honed sharp, just different bit geometry. He referred to the thicker bit as a grubbing bit.
Just my .02, Double Ott
 
I keep both edges extremely sharp, however the geometry on one edge is thicker for heavier work.
 
For those of you who prefer one edge more convex--what is your sharpening procedure for the convex edge? Do you have a similar profile on each side and then just convex the edge or do you have the whole bit thicker up to a 1/4" from the edge ... and then rapidly taper to the edge. What I often do is file and hone both the bits same and then blunt the convex side with a file and then hone to create a new edge that is convex. It gives a stronger edge for the first 1/4" but the basic geometry behind the first 1/4" allows for efficient cutting.

I also blue the axe head (patina) including the convex edge while I keep the keen edge raw honed. This way I can pick out my primary cutting edge at a glance.

Also what are your preferences for sheaths--two edge guards or one which encases the whole head?
 
Double Ott said:
I have a friend, a little older than I am, around 65+ who used to work for the USDA Forest Service. He told me that many would use a thinner ground bit for chopping in knot free wood. They would also have the other bit ground thicker for chopping near the base of a tree, knots and logs that may have dirt/sand in the bark. Both bits would be honed sharp, just different bit geometry. He referred to the thicker bit as a grubbing bit.
Just my .02, Double Ott
Click to expand...
the first double bit i ever owned was sharpened by a old friend as a dual purpose set up. one bit was thinned out for tree felling, the other bit was ground thicker for "grubbing out" .

i traded this nice Plumb for a Wetterlings 3 1/2 pounder double. i sharpened both bits on this Wetterlings the same for tree felling. the grubbing edge is real handy if you need to work up some rough and tough roots or tree trunks but i don't have the power to do this sort of work now days..

buzz
 
thunderstick said:
I also blue the axe head (patina) including the convex edge while I keep the keen edge raw honed. This way I can pick out my primary cutting edge at a glance.

Also what are your preferences for sheaths--two edge guards or one which encases the whole head?
Click to expand...

Blueing's a good idea. It crossed my mind that identifying which blade to use might be more trouble than it's worth.

I can't say it's any better than a full cover but here's the two piece blade guard I made for mine.
I like it fine although it's not near as pretty as the one made by the sheath maker on here that gave me the idea.
004.jpg

Charlie
 
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Those of you who set up their double-bits with two different profiles...what is your primary usage for your axes? and do any of you prefer using a double-bit set up this way to the use of a single-bit for these applications?
 
thunderstick said:
Those of you who set up their double-bits with two different profiles...what is your primary usage for your axes?
Click to expand...

Primary for my single bits or primary for my double bits? They're different tools. My main uses for my axes are trail work and splitting wood. Trail work is sometimes clearing existing trails and sometimes building new trails. When clearing existing trails I'm usually carry a saw (either chainsaw or crosscut) and wedges. For that work I need a poll axe. But if I'm building new trail then I'll more likely bring a double bit for the 'swamper' duty. That includes chopping wood that is lying on the ground and chopping roots.


thunderstick said:
and do any of you prefer using a double-bit set up this way to the use of a single-bit for these applications?
Click to expand...

I prefer a single bit for splitting wood but I'll sometimes use a double. But for swamper duty I prefer the db because I know I'm gonna dull the blade some. Yesterday I cleared a small tree off the road, cleared some trails and felled an 8" widow maker alongside the trail. For that I used my boy's axe because it's what I keep in the truck.
 
Square_peg
Primary for my single bits or primary for my double bits?

I meant what is your primary use for the double-bits that are sharpened with two edges of differing geometries. You supplied that information. Thanks
 
I have a cutter, and a worker. I have at the bottom of my handle a piece knocked off of it, so I can feel in my hands which bit is in action. That way I dont have to look at the axe head which one will be doing the work.

Hope it helps.

Thanks!

Mike
 
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