Double Bix Axe Rehab, Suggestions Needed

C Bryant

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Jul 12, 2008
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So recently picked up this nice double bit for next to nothing. I know a couple of you guys have done this before so lets hear what you did. It is in overall pretty good shape, I just took some 0000 steel wool to it and it looks great so far. Minor rust spots, definatley shows it age, not major dings on the blades, and the handle has a tiny wiggle in it. I want to rehab it without taking away it's beautiful time worn look. I don't mind shining it up a bit, but I'm not going to polish it up too much. I do plan on sanding down the handle and giving it some tung oil, assuming I keep the handle.

So:
Think the handle is a keeper?
What should I use to clean up the rust w/o killing the patina too much?
Open to any and all suggestions or tips you guys might have.

Thanks.

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I don't have any advice on the restoration, but it looks like a great old tool... I she works out for you.
 
Does'nt look too old, so the handle wood should be in good shape after some warm tung oil. Soak the head too while you're at it, keep it from dry rotting away further. Take some Black, then Green BRKT polishing compound to the head and it'll clean up nice but leave a few character marks.
 
I'd just use some #00000 steel wool to take off any rust spots, oil it, refile the edge and call it good!
 
I'd clean up and treat the head end of the haft, as recommended above, then maybe go to a thicker/longer/wider wedge to get the wiggle out of the setup.

Best of success!

DancesWithKnives
 
nice axe!

you got some large checking going on the handle. I would fill those checks with epoxy (with fillers) before doing anything. Same with that gouge near the head. Once its cured, sand the whole thing, do your head reprofiling and then soak the entire thing in linseed oil + tung oil for a month. Remove, wipe down and let it dry for a while. As for the wedge, pop that one out and use a larger wood wedge, and use a tiny steel wedge and bisect the wood wedge (like GB does on their axes)
 
Nice cruiser, I have the same one myself. I don't know if I'd try to save the handle, the checks/cracks look pretty deep and it's also a fairly chipped up.

If you spray the head with WD-40 before you steel wool it, it should clean up the rust a little better. A smooth blade definitely cuts better. Any patina you take off will go back on as you use it, so I wouldn't worry much about that.

To re-work and thin out the bevels, a big, new (think "sharp"), single-cut bastard file is worth the money. It might feel like it's skating at first, but once you get some of the high spots down and establish the new bevel, it'll get better. Once they're flat and even, finish them up with a sanding block and mutiple grits, something like 180 through 400 or so. Watch your fingers! I like to wear leather gloves at that stage.

The only other thing I would add is to go slow, take your time and enjoy watching it turn into a real working tool again. I think I can safely predict once you start using it you'll see a lot of difference between swinging a double and a single bit. Doubles are great users, even if they are a little more dangerous to handle.
 
I think that you should try the handle out- it has lasted for a while so there may be some life left in it. I have used some pretty rough looking handles (not actually rough) that have gone through a good hard work out without breaking. If it does break then you can make/buy a new one.
Just my opinion though.

P.S. No matter what you do you have to show us now!
 
Nice find! Kelly was a top quality brand in it's day. They cost more, but were favored
by loggers and other professionals.
As Bushman says, the first thing to do is lose the metal wedge. I'd whittle a hickory replacement, as large as the space will allow. If there are still gaps you can add slivers of
wood coated in epoxy or wood glue. Hammer them all in and dress off evenly with a rasp
or coarse file. Then add a small steel wedge to bisect the wood wedge. I like the file
the top of the metal wedge so it has sharp corners, then drive it a bit below the
surface of the wood. The corners help keep it from backing out. The sides of the
wedge should have grooves as well. Linseed oil cut with turpentine will finish the
job on the handle. There's other ways of doing it, but this is what I'd do if it were mine.
Best regards,
R
 
Nice find. I just got an old "Keen Cutter" double bit axe in an antique shop for next to nothing. The axe and ORIGINAL Keen handle (marked) is in perfect shape. I am reading with interest all the comments on keeping the caracter of the axe. Mine also needs sharpening and fixing the edge here and there.
 
I like all the advise you've gotten above. If it were mine,I'd just replace the handle. However,if you decide to go with that one,make sure the new wooden wedge is the full length of the eye of the axe. The handle is not,and it should be. Depending on how much wiggle you have,and how long it's been wiggling/smoothing the wood,you may not be able to really secure that one. But,you'll have fun trying,and you'll learn alot.
Above all,take your time and enjoy it. And let us know what you decide and how it's going.
 
Nice Axe!
Those True Tempers Kellys are great axes.
I bought a single bit one last year on ebay and rehandled it.
Lots of good advice here so far!
 
My father-in-law recently passed away and I aquired his double bit axe, so I am reading this with a lot of interest. I was not sure if I was going to rehandle it and make it into a user, or put it in a shadow box. After reading this, I am thinking rehandle and use it with pride, maybe even pass it on to my boys some day.
 
Awesome guys, I will keep this post updated as I begin work and take pictures of each step along the way so you all can continue to help and guide me though it. Thank you again for all the tips, if anybody had anything to add or comment on just keep it coming! This should be a fun project.
 
I have the same axe. Has a nice ring when you flick it with your finger. Sharp as a razor. Why keep the old handle? Too dangerous. You don't have much in it. Enjoy working on a new handle and make a cover for it. Has anyone else soak metal tools in Coke to get surface rust off?
 
I have the same axe. Has a nice ring when you flick it with your finger. Sharp as a razor. Why keep the old handle? Too dangerous. You don't have much in it. Enjoy working on a new handle and make a cover for it. Has anyone else soak metal tools in Coke to get surface rust off?

Coke, eh? Hmm...
 
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