Double Guard

M

Mike Mossington

Joined
Jan 1, 2004
Messages
108
I have just had a fellow ask if I can make him a blade with a double guard. I am not sure how to fit a guard like that. When I fit a single guard, I set the bottom into the steel about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, so it fits tight and looks seamless when the guard is shaped.

Any hints on how to fit a double guard? Does it need to fit on from the tip, rather than the butt end? I am really at a loss on this one. But I have seen some real nice knives like that, so I know it can be done.

Maybe even with my 3 thumbs and 2 left hands.

Mike
 
Sorry, I should have specified that I want a double guard on a FULL TANG - obviously putting on a hidden tang is pretty basic.

:o

Mike
 
Mike Mossington said:
Sorry, I should have specified that I want a double guard on a FULL TANG - obviously putting on a hidden tang is pretty basic.

:o

Mike
Click to expand...

I, personally, don't know what kind of double guard your talking about. Do you mean like a finger guard? Can you post pictures of one, so that we have a better idea of what you're trying to accomplish?

Ickie
 
Mike Mossington said:
When I fit a single guard, I set the bottom into the steel about 1/8 to 1/4 inch,

Maybe even with my 3 thumbs and 2 left hands.

Mike
Click to expand...

I share your dilemma of having to many thumbs:)
How thick of a piece of steel are you using that you can set the guard in 1/8 to 1/4 inch ? I'm usually good at solving fit problems, or maybe I just cause to many fit problems that I need to fix.:o But I don't have a clear mental pic of what your doing. A pic would help.
 
It is done just like a hidden tang. Grind the tang to about 1/8" narrower than the ricasso.This is only 1/16 per side. It won't be visible to the eye. With a good tight fit, the guard can be pressed on tight and not even need soldering.
Stacy
 
What Stacy said.. You can also do a frame handle on a hidden tang and make it look like a full tang.
 
What Stacy said, BUT the tang has to be the exact thickness from butt to guard seat. It is better to have a slight taper from butt to the guard seat. It also needs a slight, very slight, taper in width, or be of a shape that gives the same result, in that the guard seat needs to be wider than any other area that your slotted guard has to pass over, or you will have a small gap where the grips fit up at the visible edge of the tang. If you milled the tang down a few thousandth's on each side you could have a shoulder all the way around the guard seat, making it easier to fit without solder, but you would still have to have the width slightly more at the seat area for a tight fit where the grip seats on the guard. A hidden, or morticed tang is much easier to fit such a guard to.
 
I second what Tom said about watching that video. It will show you "Loveless-style" fitting of a double guard from the tip, where the handle is slightly wider than the blade, creating shoulders for the backside of the guard to sit on.

Essentially, the same prinicples apply as what Stacy and LRB have outlined, though putting it on from the tip will probably require both pinning and soldering.

Understanding how to fit the guard from both ends will allow you a small measure of increased freedom in designing your knife.
 
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