Dozier vs Busse

OK, thanks to you guys, I just dropped some coin!! Ordered a K7 Outdoorsman and a K8 skinner........my wife is gonna kill me!!

Doc
 
DocGP said:
OK, thanks to you guys, I just dropped some coin!! Ordered a K7 Outdoorsman and a K8 skinner........my wife is gonna kill me!!

Doc
Click to expand...

Well, I think you actually choose less expensive variant (from what you asked for) so your wife should know this. Actually buying the best also save you money, because in my case I spend quite a bit on some junk until I found Dozier. And now I just do not need anything else. What I have cover my needs pretty much (I may want to add folder sometime) and I do know that I will not find any better.

Consider this as a safety tips to reason your wife...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
careful buzzbait, bladeforums was considering changing its name to busseforums... jerry has enviable customer loyalty (or is that rabidness) here
 
Just resharpen two of my Doziers, with about 10 other knives. They are most responding - it take much less effort to sharpen them to greater sharpness. Both whitteling hair with long curving shave.

Also I forget to mention - all blades for basic price satin finished.

Micarta on handle is hard, not fluffy and did not get slippery when wet. Handle butt is full thickness - same as handle so it is comfortable to use finnish grip when butt is in the middle of the palm for power push - stubbing.

Some things just caming to my mind later then others, sorry...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Doziers have always been some of my favorite knives. I have owned several over the years and I have kept two - a small, thin Loveless style, and a Master Skinner. The latter is my go to knife for skinning moose and other large critters here Alaska.

Now the caveats.

Doziers come sharp and stay sharp, and are relatively easy to resharpen provided you don't let them get real dull. The reason for this is twofold. Dozier's D2 is very hard (60-62 RC, and I would say mostly 62), and his blades normally sport a hollow grind. If you tap a Dozier blade on something hard it rings like a crystal bell. This means the steel is very stiff because of the high hardness. This tends to make them brittle by comparison to other steels, especially those at lower hardness. While I have never snapped the tip off a Dozier, I know others who have. I simply avoid any kind of prying or high lateral pressure when using my Doziers. They might take it, then again they might not. That's why I carry two knives when hunting. The Dozier for the skinning, and a Busse for joint work, sternum, and other heavy cutting around and through bone. Also, while hollow grinds work well for some things, they don't work so well for others. I find a flat grind is better for chopping and deep cuts, and flat grinds tend to cut straighter on long cuts, while hollow grinds tend to "wander" on long cuts and bind at the top on deep cuts.

In my experience there is no one perfect knife, although some come close enough that you can carry them with a high degree of satisfaction and confidence. As long as you know how and why the maker chose the steel and design they did for an intended purpose, and you use that knife for that purpose you should be in great shape. If you have the option, buy a Dozier for the cutting, and carry a hatchet or large camp knife made of another, tougher steel for the other chores. If not get a knife like a mid-sized Busse and while it may not hold an edge quite as long as a Dozier, it will be tough enough to handle all the chores you might encounter in the absence of a hatchet or large chopper.
 
Steelhed said:
Doziers have always been some of my favorite knives. I have owned several over the years and I have kept two - a small, thin Loveless style, and a Master Skinner. The latter is my go to knife for skinning moose and other large critters here Alaska.

Now the caveats.

Doziers come sharp and stay sharp, and are relatively easy to resharpen provided you don't let them get real dull. The reason for this is twofold. Dozier's D2 is very hard (60-62 RC, and I would say mostly 62), and his blades normally sport a hollow grind. If you tap a Dozier blade on something hard it rings like a crystal bell. This means the steel is very stiff because of the high hardness. This tends to make them brittle by comparison to other steels, especially those at lower hardness. While I have never snapped the tip off a Dozier, I know others who have. I simply avoid any kind of prying or high lateral pressure when using my Doziers. They might take it, then again they might not. That's why I carry two knives when hunting. The Dozier for the skinning, and a Busse for joint work, sternum, and other heavy cutting around and through bone. Also, while hollow grinds work well for some things, they don't work so well for others. I find a flat grind is better for chopping and deep cuts, and flat grinds tend to cut straighter on long cuts, while hollow grinds tend to "wander" on long cuts and bind at the top on deep cuts.

In my experience there is no one perfect knife, although some come close enough that you can carry them with a high degree of satisfaction and confidence. As long as you know how and why the maker chose the steel and design they did for an intended purpose, and you use that knife for that purpose you should be in great shape. If you have the option, buy a Dozier for the cutting, and carry a hatchet or large camp knife made of another, tougher steel for the other chores. If not get a knife like a mid-sized Busse and while it may not hold an edge quite as long as a Dozier, it will be tough enough to handle all the chores you might encounter in the absence of a hatchet or large chopper.
Click to expand...

Ahh, common sense- and it sounds like real-world experience mixed in... Thanks for such a useful contribution!
 
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