DPX Heat Elmax lock stick

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Nov 25, 2014
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Hey guys. Just got my new DPX Heat elmax in the mail today. Love the looks and feel of the knife...but the lock is not smooth at all. It sticks when trying to disengage it. Anyone else have this knife and able to tell me if this is normal or something I need to send back? I know DPX is known for lock stick issues but thought that was a thing of the past. Also wondering what bit is used to disassemble the heat? Thanks all.
 
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I have the OD green heat. When I got it 2 weeks ago it had terrible lock stick. I just kept working it and it smoothed out eventually after many many openings and closings. Just keep at it it should wear in.

The lock bar on mine is really stiff though, even without the stick, it's still hard to disengage. I had a Lion Steel SR1 that also had a very stiff a lock bar. Maybe it's just a Lion Steel thing.
 
My SR2 is smooth as butter. I found another thread where folks were taking about the lock stick disappearing after break in. Hopefully that's the case cause I dig the knife. Its got some funky orange grease in it though. Almost looks metallic.
 
My SR2 is smooth as butter. I found another thread where folks were taking about the lock stick disappearing after break in. Hopefully that's the case cause I dig the knife. Its got some funky orange grease in it though. Almost looks metallic.

My experience with most any titanium lock, whether it's a frame lock, or a liner lock, is that if it is sticky it will wear in and smooth out after a bit.

And mine has white grease in it, I guess they don't use the same grease all the time.
 
The lock stick is normal and will begin to diminish over time. Think of it this way, would you rather the lock stick firmly in place or have the ability to slide around with ease? If the lock sticks, I know it has good lockup.
 
I have few HEST knives. The "stick" you describe simply needs some break-in time. Give it two weeks and I think you'll find it will smooth out.

Personally, I like a slight amount of "stick" if only for tactile confirmation of a good, solid lockup--which the HESTs certainly have. I think you'll find the HEAT to be a good knife.
 
My Heat full Ti had lock stick bad. I disassembled mine and used my spyderco sharpmaker rod to smooth out the engaging surface of the lockbar just a bit. It is perfect now. Not an option for everyone though.
 
All of my DPX folders started that way and have smoothed out with use. Give it time and be prepared to booger up your thumb opening and closing it for a week or two. lol
 
The short, strong, lock lug of the small framelocks is the cause of this "stick". Larger framelocks with their longer lock lugs seem to be less of a problem. If you want to, you can "weaken" the lock lug by slightly bending it back the other way. I've done this with success before.

Be careful, you could mess it up as well.
 
Most Ti framelocks I've owned had lock stick when new, the exception being those with steel lockbar inserts.
 
My Heat full Ti had lock stick bad. I disassembled mine and used my spyderco sharpmaker rod to smooth out the engaging surface of the lockbar just a bit. It is perfect now. Not an option for everyone though.

Maybe I'll give that a try. Thanks for the tip. And I appreciate all the comments and reassurance from everyone.
 
In most cases the stick is natural like many people have said. It's just the Ti gauling and sticking to the steel surface. Weird property of Ti, that is negated in the Sebenza by Carbonizing the lock to elliminate the ability for the Ti to gaul.
It will go away with time as the surface of the Ti becomes smoother on the lock interface and the small bits of Ti left behind everytime it stick form a layer that keeps it from happening.

If it persists, or becomes too hard to disengage, just put some graphite from a pencil on the blade tang where it interfaces with the lock. Sharpie is a bit more long-term method if you are concerned about the knife still doing it with the graphite, but you have to leave time for the sharpie to dry on the steel. Otherwise, just hope your thumb calluses quickly like the rest of us ;)

And yeah, it is much more common in small folders for this to be an issue, but plenty of larger folders have the issue as well. Some of them can become impossible to close in some cases, and if that happens, take a falt-headed screwdriver, wrap the head in a soft cloth or tape, and use it as a pry-bar to open the lock, and then definitely apply either sharpie or graphite to prevent that from happnening again.
 
Just in case anyone else runs across this thread...the DPX Heat can be disassembles for cleaning and adjusting. It takes a 7/64 hex to take the knife apart.
 
Hmmm their site says this...

Pivot screw & frame screws with 7/64 hardware so no special tool is required for adjustment

That must be copy and paste from a different knife's description.

I own the Elmax version, and the knife is riveted together. And if you enlarge the picture on the website, you will see those are rivets, not screws.

Borrowed from the web:

standard.jpg
 
It is actually a stop pin. The pivot screw and the bottom 2 screws can be taken out and the knife can be taken apart.
 
It is actually a stop pin. The pivot screw and the bottom 2 screws can be taken out and the knife can be taken apart.

Look closer. Those are NOT screws. Trust me, I own one. They are NOT screws!!!! Not on the Elmax version.

standard.jpg


Website picture

standard.jpg
 
Look closer. Those are NOT screws. Trust me, I own one. They are NOT screws!!!! Not on the Elmax version.

standard.jpg


Website picture

standard.jpg

They are screws...I took the knife apart last night. I also own the knife. So trust ME it does come apart just fine. And like I said it takes a 7/64 hex to remove them.
 
I don't own the knife, but I'm curious how a 7/64 hex works on those. I've never seen fasteners that look like that, and they do indeed look like rivets. From the picture, there doesn't seem to be any angular surfaces inside the hole. Are they inset at the bottom?
 
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