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DPx HEST Folder Blade Setting
- Thread starter RYP
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Can't fully recall, but I seem to remember some noting a difference in gaps via in-person visual/physical checks, not just from pictures.
From a financial standpoint, I'm sure the pin would probably be the least expensive fix, for those who would be satisfied with this option. Since it's not something I'd consider to keep the knife, if there's no other fix/option, the only other alternative would be a refund, which would make the whole deal a total wash, even a setback with postage costs, not to mention a few other areas. Perhaps addressing the blade might be more costly, but there still may be some coverage($) remaining after all is said and done.
Yeah. Perhaps if it wasn't so noticeable, it wouldn't have become such an issue, for some.I never thought I would talk this much about a gap in this particular forum
Well excuse me for actually reading what you said below...
...as meaning you only wanted the pins shipped, and for not assuming you meant to type "knives". Kinda hard to take measurements on every knife when you're only receiving the pins. I was merely going by what you said.
...and I wouldn't be "grinding" anything.
Ok, excuse me... Milling.
whitty
Dealer / Materials Provider
ml100 and risen,
You both have good points.
ml100 thanks for pointing out the print on the blade, I had not noticed that. I still think the angle can have some (not all) difference in it. The pics I took of mine made the gap look ridiculous when I put the camera that close. The truth is it was not nearly as big as the pics made it seem, so I did not post them.
I have all sorts of theories about all of this but will keep them to myself and let the people who can do something about any of it answer the questions and make the decisions.
Whitty
You both have good points.
ml100 thanks for pointing out the print on the blade, I had not noticed that. I still think the angle can have some (not all) difference in it. The pics I took of mine made the gap look ridiculous when I put the camera that close. The truth is it was not nearly as big as the pics made it seem, so I did not post them.
I have all sorts of theories about all of this but will keep them to myself and let the people who can do something about any of it answer the questions and make the decisions.
Whitty
Isn't this a violation of BF guidelines?Hey All,
I got the message from ikilledkenny and took a pic of the full blade. I have to admit, no matter how hard I try, I can't get the blade to catch on anything short of a fingernail. I don't see it as an issue, but others may have different opinions if their blades are spaced further out. Here is the pic:
-Connor
I got the message from ikilledkenny and took a pic of the full blade. I have to admit, no matter how hard I try, I can't get the blade to catch on anything short of a fingernail. I don't see it as an issue, but others may have different opinions if their blades are spaced further out. Here is the pic:
-Connor
I agree. It really isn't a big deal to me either. But for those who it is a big deal, I'm glad to see RYP and Gianni stepping up to come to a solution that will make everyone happy. Another sign that we are dealing with a vendor who gives a sh*t about his customers.....:thumbup:
Just opened mine.
After getting the blade in hand, and reading what Gianni said in the other thread, I am not as aggravated.
Mine has very little of the tip sticking out. Small enough that I am pretty confident that nothing would ever be able to get in there. Blade is centered, it is really smooth. It was somewhat tight when I got it, but I had no problems opening it one handed. I adjusted it maybe an 1/8th of a turn and it is perfect now. No blade play at all. Aside from the glaring issues, it seems to be a very well made knife...even at the price point. Chris Reeve need not be scared...but it is pretty nice.
My rotoblock is also adjusted perfectly. It is reasonably easy to engage, but never does so on it's own. Just the way it should be.
The bad things? Well...the tip (not as bad as I was fearing), a few nitpicky parts about finish (barely noticeable rub marks, the lockbar cut out is really rough. stuff like that) but the main thing is the screws. Both the pivot and the rotoblock hex screws are slightly marred. It isnt enough to affect function, but it just doesnt look that good on a $250 dollar knife. It isnt anything that I havent done myself before though.
I am not sending it back for a refund. I cannot speak for all, but my particular knife looks like the lockface on the blade is cut steep enough taht it will be able to handle a new, slightly smaller pin to adjust for the tip sticking out...and it isnt going to take much.
I'll give them the benefit of the doubt at this point and await my pins to arrive.
I was on the edge of canceling my production knife pre-order too...but after receiving this I am going to get it as well. It will be an interesting comparison.
After getting the blade in hand, and reading what Gianni said in the other thread, I am not as aggravated.
Mine has very little of the tip sticking out. Small enough that I am pretty confident that nothing would ever be able to get in there. Blade is centered, it is really smooth. It was somewhat tight when I got it, but I had no problems opening it one handed. I adjusted it maybe an 1/8th of a turn and it is perfect now. No blade play at all. Aside from the glaring issues, it seems to be a very well made knife...even at the price point. Chris Reeve need not be scared...but it is pretty nice.
My rotoblock is also adjusted perfectly. It is reasonably easy to engage, but never does so on it's own. Just the way it should be.
The bad things? Well...the tip (not as bad as I was fearing), a few nitpicky parts about finish (barely noticeable rub marks, the lockbar cut out is really rough. stuff like that) but the main thing is the screws. Both the pivot and the rotoblock hex screws are slightly marred. It isnt enough to affect function, but it just doesnt look that good on a $250 dollar knife. It isnt anything that I havent done myself before though.
I am not sending it back for a refund. I cannot speak for all, but my particular knife looks like the lockface on the blade is cut steep enough taht it will be able to handle a new, slightly smaller pin to adjust for the tip sticking out...and it isnt going to take much.
I'll give them the benefit of the doubt at this point and await my pins to arrive.
I was on the edge of canceling my production knife pre-order too...but after receiving this I am going to get it as well. It will be an interesting comparison.
It does look to me like the blades are slightly different lengths. This would cause the whole issue as the knife design doesn't alot for much error though. I've got a few knives, all of which seat pretty far under the liners. There's probably blade length inconsistencies with the knife models I own, but due to the design you'd never notice. There's very, very little room for error with blade length with the H*E*S*T because the blade tip would hit the back spacer. Not so much with other knives I own...
I have looked close.... the image looks about the same to me.
I think the blade was ground different in the second image.... [read short].
What do ya' think?????
I hate to tell you this but I think this is trick photography at its best. The angle on these pictures is slightly different causing the illusion of a bigger gap. The majority of the pics I have seen have been pretty similar as far as the gap is concerned.
I would have to believe from a business stand point that they would think the replacement stop pin is worth trying before they even consider replacing the blade. I am not even sure that would ever be an option.
The statement above is mine and in no way represents the opinions or conclusions of RYP. I have to state this so I do not get voted off the island or run over by a truck.
Whitty
P.S. I never thought I would talk this much about a gap in this particular forum
Even after I ground my stop pin, there was still about a 1/16" gap from blade to backspacer. The blade can not hit the backspacer because the stop pin will not allow further blade movement. Even if the blade was a bit longer that may cause other issues, like contact with the top of the backspacer. The knives may some slight variance from one to the other and I think from taking it apart the stop pin going to be the easiest fix. If Lionsteel offers several size pins you should be able to get the proper adjustment for each individual knife.
i got mine just now as well. the gap does bother me but not as much as i was afraid of. i do hope there is a simple solution for it. the pivot opposite side is buggered up other than that the blade is centered and it opens smoothly. the edge is uneven but not bad.
cricket
cricket
Thanks RYP, but I'm not looking to make any money. I'm still waiting patiently for my HEST folder and can imagine the sadness some of these other guys are feeling. haha
It's of no cost to me, just a couple hours on the machine. Oh and the $0.40 postage for return?
Also do you know if the pin is hardened? Drill blank?
I would too be interested in the pin dia.
Well, would ya look at that... I was right to not assume you meant to say "send me your knives" instead of "send me your pins". No way anybody would think it only costs $0.40 in postage to mail a knife. So, tell me, how were you planning on taking all those measurements for each knife if you only had the pin?? And why would you be interested in the pin diameter too if you were planning on taking all your own measurements and doing the math yourself?
Just FYI, when someone gives you a piece of friendly courtesy advice, don't fire back with a smartass remark trying to play it like you were fully aware of the potential issues. Especially when your prior posts on the subject prove you hadn't considered it...
Well, would ya look at that... I was right to not assume you meant to say "send me your knives" instead of "send me your pins". No way anybody would think it only costs $0.40 in postage to mail a knife. So, tell me, how were you planning on taking all those measurements for each knife if you only had the pin?? And why would you be interested in the pin diameter too if you were planning on taking all your own measurements and doing the math yourself?
Just FYI, when someone gives you a piece of friendly courtesy advice, don't fire back with a smartass remark trying to play it like you were fully aware of the potential issues. Especially when your prior posts on the subject prove you hadn't considered it...
Why don't you threaten him like you did to everybody in the Sebenza thread?
Rage much?
I am really surprised that no one has brought up the idea of if you replace the pin and lower the tip won't that force the heel of the blade closer to the outside of the liners. Mine is pretty close now....I can touch the sharpened blade with my little finger now...pushing it further up would only make it easier to cut myself or whatever is in my pocket.
Exaggerate much? Hey, why don't you just start posting a bunch of useless drivel that makes absolutely no sense like you did in the sebenza thread? Do you ever have anything useful to say? :jerkit:
So all this is over a pocket knife huh? Oh you guys
Sad isn't it? I just got mine and besides a slightly buggered pivot screw its a fucking badass knife. The baddest assed knife I've ever owned. If I would have bought this knife without ever having been on these forums I doubt I would have even noticed any of these things. I do have one small issue, the rotolock doesn't move but just a hair. Having watched some video's of the knife I have seen it move a good bit to lock and unlock the knife. Maybe it just needs to be loosened.
We will replace ANY hardware or parts that are damaged in shipping sent a photo of the part to customerservice@dpxgear.com with your return address
Don't worry about it, it will break in nicely within a few days. I have many different rotoblock knives and they all had that. Now they are as smooth as you like
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