Draw Knife, Khukuri Knife, Machete...Hatchet?? What is best to thin hafts with?

. . .
Anyone have experience with rifflers?. . .

I use them, but not a lot. They are handy to use in indentations:

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Bob
 
Very nice Bob. Thanks for steering me in the right direction.

Looks like you got the hang of them - your work in the inset picture is great.
 

Sorry. I knew I had asked before I just failed at searching. I had all these great plans about a year ago, ordered up a bunch of hafts... and then work and house projects got in the way. I never got to any of the axes. Finally starting to see the house projects come to an end (re-piped the heating system, whole home electrical rewire, air sealing & exterior wall insulation)... Made a bbq smoker with a buddy out of a 275gal oil tank. We bought a chord of kiln dried hickory and about two chords of green 8'-12' long sections of unsplit tree trunks & limbs. Been inside hibernating and drinking too much beer... Figure its about time to get some of these axes put together so I can split some wood and get some exercise.
 
Are you thinning an existing/finished, commercially made, or a handle from a raw piece of wood?

It's all commercially made (HH) stuff but all hand picked and very thick. Order was over a year ago. When I got the hafts (about 20 in the order) I wasn't happy so I called, moaned a little, sent the order back and they sent me a new order. New hafts were really great but even thicker than the first order. Not sure if they are rough hafts or what but they are much thicker than what I'm used to getting.
 
Sorry. I knew I had asked before I just failed at searching. I had all these great plans about a year ago, ordered up a bunch of hafts... and then work and house projects got in the way. I never got to any of the axes. Finally starting to see the house projects come to an end (re-piped the heating system, whole home electrical rewire, air sealing & exterior wall insulation)... Made a bbq smoker with a buddy out of a 275gal oil tank. We bought a chord of kiln dried hickory and about two chords of green 8'-12' long sections of unsplit tree trunks & limbs. Been inside hibernating and drinking too much beer... Figure its about time to get some of these axes put together so I can split some wood and get some exercise.

Nothing to be sorry about! I just found it funny: "Hmmm, let me see, someone opend a similar thread not so long ago...let me hook this guy up with that thread...", then: "ohhhhhhh!" :).
 
I don't really limit myself to just a couple tools. These are my current favorites, even though some just play specific rolls. I use them for other hobbies also.

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For thinning hafts, I used to be a worthless Hafting Chump used a spokeshave.
Nowdays I show a picture of what I want & direct my trained rats to chew.
Meanwhile I drink beer & read daft internet stuff.
 
For thinning hafts, I used to be a worthless Hafting Chump used a spokeshave.
Nowdays I show a picture of what I want & direct my trained rats to chew.
Meanwhile I drink beer & read daft internet stuff.

Best method yet!
 
For thinning hafts, I used to be a worthless Hafting Chump used a spokeshave.
Nowdays I show a picture of what I want & direct my trained rats to chew.
Meanwhile I drink beer & read daft internet stuff.
I've got the beer and internet part down but I could use some good training tips. ;)
 
I started out with a C-clamp and my pickups tail gait. It was rough on the tail gait but I got a lot done with the set up. I up graded to a Workmate bench that was a garage sale find. I still have that old bench. They are very versatile.
 
garry3- The great picture of your tool kit for hanging and haft making shows generally what I use. The only thing that I also find useful is a draw shave guide (also called a chamfer gauge).The one I use is a original Goodell- Pratt Co. No 44, as listed in their 1905 tool catalogue No 7. Lee Valley Tools sells a very nice reproduction, #15P20.01. These guides are a depth-limiting fence that prevent the drawshave from diving into the haft. I set mine off center on the blade sometimes. This still allows it to do its job, but leaves me the center section of the blade for hogging. Another trick to keep a draw shave from diving is to use it (without the guides) bevel side of the blade to the work. This is contrary to how most people think a draw shave is used, but doing this will give you a lot more control to prevent tear out. I have a few old draw shaves ( my favorite being a William Beatty) that have offset handles to allow you to use it bevel side to the work and still have your hands level. What has worked for me.
 
I wasn't aware of those drawknife guides. I always just used them bevel side down. I'll have to get a pair.
 
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