Dreaded two inch mark??

T

Tin.Man

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
876
So I wouldnt say im a beginner, but learning every time I stand in front of the grinder. Full flat grinds are something that have always given me fits. I can grind scandis and sabers and hollows and compound grinds all day.

Doing a batch on one side(i would say my strong side I noticed a bah oops mark, other side my weak side not a single issue. Did a second knife and wouldnt you know it same exact thing.

Anyone help me with what im doing to cause and maybe fix.

Cant remember how to post pictures hopefully link to my instagram is ok?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnZ3qZVgMhC/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=l86bqullzcxm

I appreciate the help gents.
 
Save your belts and use a fresh one when doing the flats. I also started using the tool test and put in a nice big flat using a board cut at a angle for a guide. That gives me a big chunk of flat area and I don't worry about the belt bump since I do long steady pulls using my guide as a push stick. Once half the flat is done I come back and freehand it.

If you haven't seen it Walter Sorrells had a really nice video about what causes it and how to avoid it.
 
Tin.man are you on instagram much? If so I have started doing live streams quite often. I would not mind doing one centered around grinding. Currently doing a batch of full flat grinds. You could watch and ask questions.

But it just comes with practice. It gets to the point where you see where you need to move the grind line and when you grind you can see where the belt is removing material in your minds eye. You know you have gotten to that point when you can step up to the grinder and not be intimidated. If your intimidated and second guessing where to put pressure you will have issues. Once you get comfortable and can give it some pressure and know what’s going on back there your golden.
 
I don’t grind my plunge until the end. I grind about a 1/3” forward from it. I like to have the angle of the main bevel set and locked in to my platen. Then I can have the knife resting on its spine or in a jig. Then I can focus entirely on grinding in the plunge. I don’t have to worry about having the angle held right, or holding the knife steady. I just solely focus on the plunge. I work them in until they’re perfect, or close to. Just make sure to give yourself some room to work with. You can always take more off. Can’t put back.
 
^+1

I also move my plunge back after all grinding is almost done. I push it about 1/8”-1/4”. But I don’t use jigs so I use a finger and rest it on the grinder. I also and I know this might sound weird. But I extend my rest all the way out and tilt it down so it’s flat agenst my belly. I then kinda lean on it and it supports my upper body. I know lots of people lock there as and move there body left to right. I use to do that it it’s fine but after hours and hours of grinding my back would be killing me.
 
I will have to try that JT. After grinding for a short time I start to feel it in my back as well.
 
When you work the plunge do not hold the blade flat on the platen.

You need to keep the blade off that platen at the 2" mark by leaving a few hair widths between the blade and platen.

This will allow you to work the plunge and avoid the 2" mark.
 
I really appreciate it gents. JT on ig all the time ha. Im not intimidated by the grinder more so matching plunges. Ive done a lot of plungeless and assymetric grinds. Mostly cause matching plunges takes the fun out of it :)

Should i take my grind higher to erase the oops? Or when I hand sand hope for the best?

Should add i grind with 36 and 60, staying 1/4" in front of the plunge then i cut them in with 60 or 120 then i use a100 then a45 trizacts.
 
Tin.Man said:
I really appreciate it gents. JT on ig all the time ha. Im not intimidated by the grinder more so matching plunges. Ive done a lot of plungeless and assymetric grinds. Mostly cause matching plunges takes the fun out of it :)

Should i take my grind higher to erase the oops? Or when I hand sand hope for the best?

Should add i grind with 36 and 60, staying 1/4" in front of the plunge then i cut them in with 60 or 120 then i use a100 then a45 trizacts.
Click to expand...
I struggled with even plunges as well. My solutions have been either using a carbide guide or the tooling test. I find I can do a nice job with the rest since it lays in the same spot so you get plunge angle and then you can come in slow focusing on getting it to line up.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. JT ordered some A300 as i hate ceramic 120 feel like it cuts super sharp for one small blade then done. Love my trizacts.

Its weird, my weaker side i have no issues at all. Year and a half hiatus after 6 or 7 years of making ring rust is a thing I guess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top