Drill Bit Question

Joined
Feb 24, 2012
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39
I purchsed a few wider (1/4 inch) or so drill bits for steel from Menards. I started drilling in my press into my D2 tang and it work like a champ until it formed a perfect cone in the steel, like you would use a wood bow in for making fire. Now it just spins in the cone it created in the D2. It is almost through but just spins. what is wrong? New to this and searched for this problem on the forum but didnt find an answer. Seems like the bit profile is wrong? I dont get it. Help! :D
 
What RPM is the drill press running at?


Maybe too fast ?



Look at the drill bit now and compare it to a new bit.
Are there some sharp edges on it, or is everything rounded and smooth ?


What kind of drill bit was it?
Was it a brad point drill?
I find hardware stores will sell crap at a golden price for convenience.
I buy my cutting tools at an industrial supplier.
 
Is it a normal twist drill? It sounds like it went dull very quickly, or for some reason is having trouble clearing chips. Is it actually making chips, or just dust?

Keep in mind the recommended speed for a 1/4 bit on mild steel is about 750 rpm max. For most consumer drill presses that is probably the slowest setting on the machine. Even annealed D2 should probably be run slower than that. If you run it much faster you are going to generate too much heat and ruin the bit, which may be the case here.

Also, if the tang is hardened you're going to have trouble drilling it with a normal bit. You'll want a carbide tipped bit ($$$).
 
You may have gotten the steel too hot and it tempered it's self. Use sharp bits at a low speed and use cutting fluid to keep drill and steel from over heating.
 
I have had ok luck with some store brand bits, but due to similar difficulties, I try to buy cobalt bits now. I think you can get some ok ones at sears, but I order mine online and slightly oversize. 6.4mm for 1/4" and #12 for 3/16".

Check your favorite knife supply shop to see what they carry.

From the sound of your issue, I bet the tip is dulled from running fast. Does the bit come out really hot when you try to drill into the cone? Did the tip discolor?
 
I'm going to echo what everyone else said. Too fast, too much pressure, generated too much heat and either work-hardened the piece or fried the bit or both. Also, it's a face-palm type moment, but make sure you haven't ran out of travel on your spindle. It can happen and makes you feel dumb when it does.

We do need more info to make better recommendations, and even better would be pictures.
 
Use cobalt 1/8" bits for pilot holes and step drills to make bigger holes. I've become a believer and now use them for every hole over 1/8". You'll find that the outside corners of your bits are likely rounded off and that's why they won't drill anymore.
 
Either the bit is fried and needs to be resharpened.....or you ran out of travel with spindle

That happened to me when I tried using my new drill press for the first time. Spent 20 minutes trying to drill one hole! It got half way through and just stopped cutting. I raised the table an inch and the bit went right through. It takes a big man to admit a mistake that stupid :D
 
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cobalt, cobalt, cobalt......cutting fluid, cutting fluid, cutting fluid.......Do not overheat and work harden your steel, because then you're screwed!
 
For drilling holes under 1/2" in any annealed tool steel set your drill on the slowest speed, (unless you have a very high quality press that is both extremely slow and rigid) make sure your bit is sharp and use a good cutting oil. WD is way to thin. I love MolyD, it is messy but very good. If you use a pilot hole on the larger holes the pilot bit should be very close to the size of the distance between the 2 flutes at the tip of the large drill. Use quite a bit of pressure until you feel the tip go thru then back off. A good drill in a solid press, at the correct speed and pressure can cut and spiral out the material in a couple long ribbons.

To high of speed and to little pressure will cause the tip of the drill to rub more than cut. The heat on the cutting edges of the drill will become extremely hot very quick. This causes the bit to lose its temper and dull and the material to work harden. One compounds the other and then as Jonnymac said "your screwed". I have seen them glow red and even 600f is to much. The temperatures at the very cutting edges of machine tools like end mills and lathe bits can be very high, that is why they are often M series steels or carbide. Normal drill bits can not stand these temps, cobalt does better but not at much higher temps. Running a bit fast and/or without good cutting oil is asking it to do the same the same as a high speed cutting tool and it will fail.

If your drilling all the way thru on a drill press have a hardwood backing under the work piece. I have little pieces of hardwood in a small box on the base of my drill press. I helps for when your bit goes thru and keeps you from drilling up your table or crossfeed vise.

Carbide is great, but I won't even put a carbide bit in my drill press. It is simply not rigid enough and has to much run out and even with the work clamped down solid, I will probably break a high dollar carbide drill. I only use my end mill to drill with carbide.
 
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The topic of how to drill a hole comes up a lot here. A lot of people have problems drilling holes. I believe the problem is people aren't feeding hard enough. A lot of the advice, such as run as slow as possible and use lots of oil aren't really necessary. I think 90% of the problem is people aren't feeding correctly. So I've made this thread to illustrate that fancy cutters, fancy coatings, lube and slow speeds aren't necessary:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/975598-Drill-your-holes?p=11101227#post11101227
 
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