Drill bit recommendation?

I have a really old set that my pop left me. They are just hss Craftsman, and I've broken a few of the really small ones, but the larger (say 1/8" and up) have drilled fine.

Curious to see what others say since I'll have to replace these eventually if I keep drilling steel.
 
Precision Twist. You can get them at enco. $4$ they are the best I've tried... Their mill bits are nice, sharp and precise as well. Their HSS performs better than a lot of lower brands claimed HSS bits. Hard pressed to find anything their solid carbide bits can't go through.

That said, for wood I have been just using the rather pedestrian Irwin sets. Good value IMO.

I also have a HSS set of bits from HF that are not really all that bad for Chinese off-brand stuff. It is the small black box generic set and runs about $8-10 I think. Threw them in the cart on a spree figuring I'd burn em up on routine stuff and save the wear on the pricier bits. They turned out good enough that I'm planning on getting the bigger set to keep in the truck box...

-Eric
 
I've been ordering mine from Atlas Cutting Tools - made in the USA with union labor. I buy the stub length carbide bits - only in the sizes I need, no sets.
 
I know I'm a new guy around here, and this is probably going to fall on deaf ears but I'll say it one time and then I'll just let it go after this; they are called "twist drills", not "drill bits". I learned this in seventh grade shop class. It was re-enforced in eighth grade shop class and in all my high school shop classes. When I took various shop classes in college, it was still called a twist drill. In the machine and fabrication shops where I've worked, it was called a twist drill. In the thousands of pages of catalogs I have on my shelf from MSC, Enco, McMaster and others, they are called twist drills. A "bit" is a auger looking drill that has a wood screw tip with a square, tapered shank and they are meant for drilling holes in wood by hand with a brace. If just one person changes their ways because of my little rant, it will all be worth it.

I really like the 135 degree USA made Nitro drills. I buy them locally but they are available from most industrial supply houses. 135 degree points penetrate quicker with less wandering than 118 degree points.

Bob
 
I broke a few regular black oxide bits so I bought some "Cold Fire" bits at Home Depot. I have been impressed with them.
 
Chicago-Latrobe Cobalt Jobber bits are really nice. A little pricy, but worth it IMO.
 
I like both Precision Twist drills and Norseman.
 
Bruceter said:
Chicago Latrobe was bought out a few years ago, I don't think that they are USA made any more.

Bruceter
Click to expand...

I wasn't aware of that. I'm actually referring to a set we use out where I work, but it is several years old come to think of it. I guess I can't speak to their current quality.
 
RangerBobTX said:
I know I'm a new guy around here, and this is probably going to fall on deaf ears but I'll say it one time and then I'll just let it go after this; they are called "twist drills", not "drill bits". I learned this in seventh grade shop class. It was re-enforced in eighth grade shop class and in all my high school shop classes. When I took various shop classes in college, it was still called a twist drill. In the machine and fabrication shops where I've worked, it was called a twist drill. In the thousands of pages of catalogs I have on my shelf from MSC, Enco, McMaster and others, they are called twist drills. A "bit" is a auger looking drill that has a wood screw tip with a square, tapered shank and they are meant for drilling holes in wood by hand with a brace. If just one person changes their ways because of my little rant, it will all be worth it.

I really like the 135 degree USA made Nitro drills. I buy them locally but they are available from most industrial supply houses. 135 degree points penetrate quicker with less wandering than 118 degree points.

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
Also if you are not drilling deep holes I would get 135 degree split point stub length drills. They do not walk around and in my experience drill nicer cleaner holes. I turned all the machinist onto them at the machine shop I used to work at.
 
I watched a you tube vid. where a locksmith does some drill bit reviews. He was reviewing a bit called Viper which he discovered they were actually Norseman. He was actually impressed with them as they went through some spring steel where he expected them to fail, but they went through it giving off nice spiral trails.
I have read some good reviews on the Norseman, although they are a little pricey I will probably invest in them.
 
I'm going to put in another vote for Norseman or precision twist.

IMHO, 135 with a split point is for metal while 118 is more all around which does wood and plastics better.
 
For all the norseman voters, are these the Norseman magnum special hi-moly tool steel bits? They seem to work very well in certain stainless steels according to my readings on the web. When Norseman drills are recommended, are these the drills that folks are talking about. Thanks
 
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