drill bits and reamers

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
9,437
I'm wondering what you guys have found to be the best brand and source for drill bits and reamers.

It seems as though I'm either going through too many bits and/or spending too much on the ones I've got (yeah, I probably need to take BitUse 101 on speeds and techniques).

Thanks.
Nick
 
hey Nick, what are you drilling and reaming?that is the decideing factor for me.

Tracy

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Tracy Dotson
Dotson's Custom Knives
Baker Fl.
 
BitUse 101:
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probably a good place to start would be to pick up a copy of machinery's handbook (doesnt have to be a brand new copy) from a used bookstore, probably anything after the 16th edition would do for you.
Here's very basics of figuring out speeds for drilling:
RPM = 4 * CS / diameter of drill

common cutting speeds(just plug these numbers into the CS part of the above formula):
(assuming a high speed steel drill)

D2- 25
A2,O1,440C- 40
Mild steel- 90
304 stainless- 60
6061 aluminum- 600
so assuming a 1/4" HSS drill, drilling 440C:
4 X 40 /.250 = 640 RPM
probably a good idea to go slower then you calculate if you dont have a lot of control over speed(step pully drill press, etc) especially on high carbon steels, as most will work harden if you look at them he wrong way when going too fast
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The previous posters have nailed the use of bits down. In addition to the information given you can also consider using a tool coolant/lubricant (yes, you can use a lube for cutting). Several coolants are biodegradeable and safe to use in small shops using a spritzer bottle as an applicator.

As with any shop operation usually the best drills will last the longest. Titanium Nitride coated blades are very dear but if properly used (speeds and temperatures watched) they will bore holes like lasers!

How much boring/reaming are you doing? 100 holes a week...a 1000? let me know if I can help but Sumo appears to be the machinist of the crew.

Dileas Gu Brath
 
Check out www.travers.com and get there catalog for free and it has everything.

I have picked up a lot of machine shop books and info from garage sales and used book stores. A lot of them are text books for classes that people never took. Hope this will help you find some basic info.
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Scott

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Scott Jones
Heck yea I invented it ...What is it???
Good things aint cheap and cheap things aint good
 
Just buy good bits and not the super cheapies .Make sure they are sharp and centered ,and don't wait till there really dull before you sharpen them .Any hole larger than.125(1/8") should be pilot drilled first with a smaller bit and work your way up in size progressively until you reach the desired size.Buy a good drill bit sharpener,as they are very handy and will save you alot of money in the long run .While drilling use moderate pressure and lift your drill frequently to clear the hole of excess shavings and don't get your drills hot as you'll ruin the drills heat treat and work harden whatever blade material you are drilling making it almost impossable to drill without carbide .

some materials are best drilled fast and some slow some require different pitch for optimum results. As previously stated a machinist manual is very handy to have arround as well as Agood degree of experience.I have drill bits that are three and four years old and get used regularly (cheap bastard )and still work great. The key is to maintain them properly and be patient.
Hope I've helped.
Aloha!!! Ken Onion
 
First off, thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it.

I guess I made it sound like I'm ruining a bit every day and although it's not that bad, I don't have any that are 4 years old (and I'm sure as heck not making as many knives as Ken is).

Out of the machinist's reference books, are there any (maybe they all do) that will have listings for the "newer to knife-making" steels like BG-42 ???

Typically I'm just drilling ATS-34 with cobalt bits while applying CoolToolII or something similar. I thought this was the best way to go, but I'm steadily wondering otherwise.

Thanks again.
Nick
 
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