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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
.Drill Bits for a beginer
- Thread starter Tjstampa
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 20,992
Yes.
Read the manual
Watch the video
Try it on "scrap drills"
Don't press too hard.
It's a plated on Diamond abrasive like the Lansky diamond rods and plates.
If you press too hard, the coating strips off.
Get a spare wheel right away.
Once you get the hang of it, you will sharpen every drill you have.
There are two grits, the default grit is the fine grit wheel.
If you get the coarser wheel, you can re-profile a carbide masonry drill into a metal cutting edge for the times you forgot to drill first.
If you check the Drill Dr site, you can get all sorts of accessories later, left hand collet, carrying case, wheels, larger collet
You can DIY the larger 3/4" collet from an extra standard. I think I just ground the tips back - not the reference surface. It's just clearance.
In Canada Amazon is my best supplier for parts, even though they still charge extra shipping.
You can get a drill dr in the store, but that store will not sell or order the wheels.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 28,023
I like it when Canadian Tire has their house brand stuff on sale- you can buy like 200 drill bits for $50. They are shitty and not worth sharpening, but cost a little less than toilet paper so when they break it's no great tragedy
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 20,992
It's a great skill.
A Drill Dr works, but you still need to do it free hand to rough in a broken or damaged bit.
A drill point gauge helps. plus a 10x power loupe or the optivisor.
I'd like to try an optivisor
Ask Santa for one of these
STARRETT 22C DRILL POINT GAGE
The nominal sizes are often on sale, but the letter and number sizes for pins usually don't
Try shopping at industrial dealers like McMaster Carr, KBC tools, SOWA,
My local tool dealer sells for maybe 10-25% off of their list for cash counter walk in sales.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 28,023
I'm asking Santa for thisIt's a great skill.
A Drill Dr works, but you still need to do it free hand to rough in a broken or damaged bit.
A drill point gauge helps. plus a 10x power loupe or the optivisor.
I'd like to try an optivisor
Ask Santa for one of these
STARRETT 22C DRILL POINT GAGE
The nominal sizes are often on sale, but the letter and number sizes for pins usually don't
Try shopping at industrial dealers like McMaster Carr, KBC tools, SOWA,
My local tool dealer sells for maybe 10-25% off of their list for cash counter walk in sales.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2009
- Messages
- 20,992
That's a good Santa.I'm asking Santa for this
Selfe Made Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2022
- Messages
- 139
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Selfe Made Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2022
- Messages
- 139
Wow, you must be on the good list
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 28,023
well, I doubt that. Asking and getting are verrrry different things!
that machine would cost me 7K CDN, which is twice what a cruder but equally capable machine here in Canada would cost me- which is still more than what I want to spend at the moment. That's why I'm asking Santa. The quality level is pretty incomparable, but I'm not making watches or anything so...
that machine would cost me 7K CDN, which is twice what a cruder but equally capable machine here in Canada would cost me- which is still more than what I want to spend at the moment. That's why I'm asking Santa. The quality level is pretty incomparable, but I'm not making watches or anything so...
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2007
- Messages
- 4,255
I have a set of drill hog bits. They're good bits for the money, and I've heard good reviews on warranty experience, though I've never tried to use it myself.
That said, I think there's a lot more important things to consider than brand, type, or material of drill bits.
Feeds and speeds, proper drilling technique, decent (and correct) cutting fluids, and a properly set up drill press will go a lot farther for making a clean, round hole, than spending hundreds of dollars on the latest 90% adamantium, triple ground, gold plated, compound beveled drill bits.
WD-40 works great on aluminum and some softer materials, but I like a good sulfurized fluid for steel. Moly-Dee is a great one, or if you're on a budget, grab a gallon of cutting fluid from the plumbing section of your local big box hardware store for around $25. It'll probably last you the rest of your life.
If you don't like how it tastes... er... I mean, smells, then you might like something like Anchor lube. I've never used it, but I hear good things.
Tap Magic and Rapid Tap make some good cutting fluids too, though they're a little pricey in large quantities. If it works well for tapping, it'll usually work for drilling as well.
Keep an eye on your chips/swarf. If they're coming out dark blue or you stop making chips, you're not cutting anymore. You probably need to lower your speed, increase your pressure, or both.
Definitely learn how to sharpen drill bits. It's kind of like learning to ride a bike. At first you'll wonder how you'll ever get it, then you'll finally figure it out and you'll wonder how you ever had a problem. Drill sharpening gauges are definitely helpful at first. Drill Doctors aren't terrible either, and definitely take some guess work out of it, but they're also pretty pricey.
Be careful on air hardening and work hardening steels. Keep pressure and don't stop until you're through. Feed and speed is critical.
Lastly, make sure your steel is annealed properly before you drill it. If the steel is already harder than the drill bit, you'll never get through it.
That said, I think there's a lot more important things to consider than brand, type, or material of drill bits.
Feeds and speeds, proper drilling technique, decent (and correct) cutting fluids, and a properly set up drill press will go a lot farther for making a clean, round hole, than spending hundreds of dollars on the latest 90% adamantium, triple ground, gold plated, compound beveled drill bits.
WD-40 works great on aluminum and some softer materials, but I like a good sulfurized fluid for steel. Moly-Dee is a great one, or if you're on a budget, grab a gallon of cutting fluid from the plumbing section of your local big box hardware store for around $25. It'll probably last you the rest of your life.
If you don't like how it tastes... er... I mean, smells, then you might like something like Anchor lube. I've never used it, but I hear good things.
Tap Magic and Rapid Tap make some good cutting fluids too, though they're a little pricey in large quantities. If it works well for tapping, it'll usually work for drilling as well.
Keep an eye on your chips/swarf. If they're coming out dark blue or you stop making chips, you're not cutting anymore. You probably need to lower your speed, increase your pressure, or both.
Definitely learn how to sharpen drill bits. It's kind of like learning to ride a bike. At first you'll wonder how you'll ever get it, then you'll finally figure it out and you'll wonder how you ever had a problem. Drill sharpening gauges are definitely helpful at first. Drill Doctors aren't terrible either, and definitely take some guess work out of it, but they're also pretty pricey.
Be careful on air hardening and work hardening steels. Keep pressure and don't stop until you're through. Feed and speed is critical.
Lastly, make sure your steel is annealed properly before you drill it. If the steel is already harder than the drill bit, you'll never get through it.
GrumpySoreOldBastard
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2024
- Messages
- 86
I foolishly bought one of those sets ,gold finish in a black steel case as throwaways for the shop drill press.
The face grind on them was so poor that they would not even drill into the pine board that i had for over drill protection.
The bits were so soft that as a experiment i tried to see how far that they would bend before breaking and found that the 3/16'" could be bent into a U shape.
In a moment of pure sadism i donated them to the nearby habitat restore.
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Messages
- 28,023
evil! haha.
I just ordered some Tap Magic, which was discounted if you can believe it, and drilled holes in a couple dozen knives today- using it for the first time. It was actually revelatory, worked so well compared to what I was using before. Super toxic, though. Best not to breathe in the smoke/vapor. After today, I think I'll use appropriate filters before doing it again. Nasty stuff.
I just ordered some Tap Magic, which was discounted if you can believe it, and drilled holes in a couple dozen knives today- using it for the first time. It was actually revelatory, worked so well compared to what I was using before. Super toxic, though. Best not to breathe in the smoke/vapor. After today, I think I'll use appropriate filters before doing it again. Nasty stuff.