drill bits for metal?

K

Knife devotee

Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
176
hello everybody. what drill bits are good for drilling through steel? I was using carbide drill bits but my last one the tip got deformed a little and chipped when I was drilling through some 1/4 5160 steel.
 
Unless its been hardened, I use good’ol HHS twistdrill for just about everything.
Correct pressure & feedrate, lube if needed.
 
agreed. Anything but the cheapest bits you could find should have no problem cutting annealed steel. Carbide certainly shouldn't have had an issue. If the steel is hardened, that's a whole other animal.
 
Knife devotee said:
hello everybody. what drill bits are good for drilling through steel? I was using carbide drill bits but my last one the tip got deformed a little and chipped when I was drilling through some 1/4 5160 steel.
Click to expand...
I bought some bits from KnKut a year ago and thats all I use since on clean metal. Top notch bits. If I’m rough drilling crap, I’ll use cheap bits.
 
Carbide drill bits are expensive, I buy Miliwaukee cobalt drill bits at Home Depot for under $5.
 
look for M42 or M35 cobalt HSS bits. use a drill press. buy "screw" length bits, they are shorter and have less runout(more runout more oblong hole). just because a bit is carbide does not make it ok for steel. read the description before buying, some are for non-steel metals or wood or plastic.
 
t
scott.livesey said:
look for M42 or M35 cobalt HSS bits. use a drill press. buy "screw" length bits, they are shorter and have less runout(more runout more oblong hole). just because a bit is carbide does not make it ok for steel. read the description before buying, some are for non-steel metals or wood or plastic.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
I bought some of the walter drill bits with Amazon points. They are way better than my previous bits
 
A good question to ask Devotee is what he is drilling with?

Drilling with a carbide bit in a hand drill is going to break the bit every time. You need a good sturdy drill press to use carbide bits.
Good HSS and cobalt bits will work better for a hand drill, but a drill press is by far the better way to go.

A word of caution - Cheap drill presses are barely better than a hand drill. While they may fit your budget, they probably won't fit the task s in knifemaking.
Second word of caution - NEVER drill into steel without wearing proper eye protection.
 
Drill bits designed for concrete will go through some pretty tough steel. But you should consider them to be expendable, and they may not make nice pretty holes.
 
scott.livesey said:
look for M42 or M35 cobalt HSS bits. use a drill press. buy "screw" length bits, they are shorter and have less runout(more runout more oblong hole). just because a bit is carbide does not make it ok for steel. read the description before buying, some are for non-steel metals or wood or plastic.
Click to expand...
Best kept secret in the knife making world. Shorter bits work so much better.
 
Don Hanson III said:
Best kept secret in the knife making world. Shorter bits work so much better.
Click to expand...

I know it’s not optimal, and can damage the flutes cutting edge, but couldn’t you just chuck a regular bit higher up so only a smaller amount is sticking out?

I use the thick countersink bits to start/locate my holes as they don’t flex at all. The ones I use most have a 1/8” tip amd 1/3” shaft/body.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I know it’s not optimal, and can damage the flutes cutting edge, but couldn’t you just chuck a regular bit higher up so only a smaller amount is sticking out? I use the thick countersink bits to start/locate my holes as they don’t flex at all. The ones I use most have a 1/8” tip amd 1/3” shaft/body.
Click to expand...
it will work it guess. "screw machine" bits are usually cheaper than 'jobber' length. for larger holes, 1/4" and up, I like "maintenance" bits which come with 3 machined flats so it chucks up extra tight.
 
JG Custom Metal Works said:
I know it’s not optimal, and can damage the flutes cutting edge, but couldn’t you just chuck a regular bit higher up so only a smaller amount is sticking out?

I use the thick countersink bits to start/locate my holes as they don’t flex at all. The ones I use most have a 1/8” tip amd 1/3” shaft/body.
Click to expand...
No, I wont chuck up on the flutes. Just too easy to get the screw machine bits.
 
but couldn’t you just chuck a regular bit higher up so only a smaller amount is sticking out?
Click to expand...
the 3 jaws chuck wont grip enough surface area of the hardened flutes (drillbit shanks are not hardened, chuck jaws are btw.) plus the critical point where the jaws end and bit sticks out wont have good radial support leading to wobble.
That said, it can work. Albeit a boogery inaccurate way to go about putting a hole in something.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top