Recommendation? DRILL BITS!??

Lieblad said:
Speaking of oil, just a little dab’l do ya.
So many guys flood it on...
A gallon can last a lifetime. Another option is stick lubricant.
I been using Do-All Toolsaver.
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I've been wanting to give that toolsaver stick a try. I do agree about quantity. I only mention a gallon of pipe oil because they don't typically come smaller than that at the big box stores, and a gallon will cost you around what a quart of the moly-dee costs, and is generally more widely available.
I bought a quart of moly dee, and I don't think I've used a quarter of it in over a year. I like to pour a little bit into a no-spill cup and use an acid brush to put a couple drops on the workpiece and/or cutting bit.

I imagine that a half gallon of pipe oil would last me the rest of my life.

BTW.... these no spill jars from mc-master are nice to keep around. Stick a magnet to the bottom and keep it stuck to the top of your drill press, mill, or wherever.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#no-spill-jars/=1a84xmz
 
You learn something new everyday, especially if you hang out around here. Lots of stuff in this thread I feel like I should have known but didn't put 2 and 2 together for some reason.

Count me in for more!
 
if you mostly use small bits, 1/4" or less, you can find M35 or M42 bits on the auction site that starts with an E for less than 20$ for 10. not worth the time or money to try and resharpen. a drill doctor has a learning curve and does not automatically produce a finished bit. the basic drill doctor can only do 3/32" to 1/2". I only use 2 or 3 size holes in my knives and can get 10 in each size for the cost of a drill doctor. work on speed and feed, don't overheat your bits, use the oil to cool, use the shortest bit possible. get some plain jane steel and practice, you can feel thru the drill press handle how things are going. good luck
 
No offense, but I hate seeing this blanket "run everything as slow as possible for cutting metal" advice. Yes, you were running way too fast, but do yourself a favor and learn a little about proper feeds and speeds for the drills you end up using.

I run 1/16" drills at 8-12k RPM. This is necessary to cut efficiently, especially with carbide drills. Not only does it extend drill life, but it gives a better quality hole with more vertical accuracy (i.e. square).

Big box store drill bits are crap. Even Milwaukee. They make some good tools, especially the contractor grade stuff, but they're not industrial, and they're not a tooling/cutter company.


Recommend you buy drills from a company that specializes in them. I like Drillco Nitros for premium HSS drills that eat stainless and titanium for lunch. Although for carbide I buy from whomever I can get good prices at for domestic produced drills. I buy the Nitros from a local fasterner/tooling supplier, in packs of a dozen, in smaller sizes, probably for the same price as you'll pay for one drill of the same size at Lowes, and they're 10x better, and longer lasting.


Once you get 1/4" or higher though, get a drill angle template, and learn to sharpen them, the bigger the drill, the more expensive they are. 1/8" and lower, I use them and throw them away when they get dull or damaged. Hell, 1/16" drills I use one or two per knife (one for spring and liner pin holes, and one for handle material) so I'm always sure I have a sharp, clean, square cutting drill. I pay less than $0.50 each for them, so it's a cheap way to mitigate potential issues. The small ones are cheap enough, and a bit of a pain in the ass to sharpen, that it's not worth bothering. On the other hand, the fractional drills I have above 1/2", I've been using the same ones for going on 10 years now, sharpening them as necessary. A quality large drill can cost $100, but it can last years and years of sharpening and use.
 
Yea small bits are a pain to sharpen. I only sharpen from about and 1/8" up. I can sharpen one in less than 10 seconds usually. Just a quick pass on the grinder is all it takes. Unless its a big bit
 
javand said:
No offense, but I hate seeing this blanket "run everything as slow as possible for cutting metal" advice. Yes, you were running way too fast, but do yourself a favor and learn a little about proper feeds and speeds for the drills you end up using.

I run 1/16" drills at 8-12k RPM. This is necessary to cut efficiently, especially with carbide drills. Not only does it extend drill life, but it gives a better quality hole with more vertical accuracy (i.e. square).

Big box store drill bits are crap. Even Milwaukee. They make some good tools, especially the contractor grade stuff, but they're not industrial, and they're not a tooling/cutter company.


Recommend you buy drills from a company that specializes in them. I like Drillco Nitros for premium HSS drills that eat stainless and titanium for lunch. Although for carbide I buy from whomever I can get good prices at for domestic produced drills. I buy the Nitros from a local fasterner/tooling supplier, in packs of a dozen, in smaller sizes, probably for the same price as you'll pay for one drill of the same size at Lowes, and they're 10x better, and longer lasting.


Once you get 1/4" or higher though, get a drill angle template, and learn to sharpen them, the bigger the drill, the more expensive they are. 1/8" and lower, I use them and throw them away when they get dull or damaged. Hell, 1/16" drills I use one or two per knife (one for spring and liner pin holes, and one for handle material) so I'm always sure I have a sharp, clean, square cutting drill. I pay less than $0.50 each for them, so it's a cheap way to mitigate potential issues. The small ones are cheap enough, and a bit of a pain in the ass to sharpen, that it's not worth bothering. On the other hand, the fractional drills I have above 1/2", I've been using the same ones for going on 10 years now, sharpening them as necessary. A quality large drill can cost $100, but it can last years and years of sharpening and use.
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I hate when people are pedantic about simple advice offered for a simple solution rather than overwhelming the guy who originally thought his drill press has only one speed with 4*CS/diameter and talk about carbide drills when he's pulling teeth to buy cobalt.

But since that's what we're doing, RPM literally has nothing to do with "vertical accuracy." A hole can be drilled straight, and nearly as round as a drill is inherently capable of, at less than optimal spindle speed. It's a matter of tool pressure, cutting conditions, and matching the feed rate for optimal chip load. Which I'm sure you know, but instead approximated as "faster is better" for brevity.

But I mean no offense.
 
javand said:
No offense, but I hate seeing this blanket "run everything as slow as possible for cutting metal" advice. Yes, you were running way too fast, but do yourself a favor and learn a little about proper feeds and speeds for the drills you end up using.

I run 1/16" drills at 8-12k RPM. This is necessary to cut efficiently, especially with carbide drills. Not only does it extend drill life, but it gives a better quality hole with more vertical accuracy (i.e. square).

Big box store drill bits are crap. Even Milwaukee. They make some good tools, especially the contractor grade stuff, but they're not industrial, and they're not a tooling/cutter company.


Recommend you buy drills from a company that specializes in them. I like Drillco Nitros for premium HSS drills that eat stainless and titanium for lunch. Although for carbide I buy from whomever I can get good prices at for domestic produced drills. I buy the Nitros from a local fasterner/tooling supplier, in packs of a dozen, in smaller sizes, probably for the same price as you'll pay for one drill of the same size at Lowes, and they're 10x better, and longer lasting.


Once you get 1/4" or higher though, get a drill angle template, and learn to sharpen them, the bigger the drill, the more expensive they are. 1/8" and lower, I use them and throw them away when they get dull or damaged. Hell, 1/16" drills I use one or two per knife (one for spring and liner pin holes, and one for handle material) so I'm always sure I have a sharp, clean, square cutting drill. I pay less than $0.50 each for them, so it's a cheap way to mitigate potential issues. The small ones are cheap enough, and a bit of a pain in the ass to sharpen, that it's not worth bothering. On the other hand, the fractional drills I have above 1/2", I've been using the same ones for going on 10 years now, sharpening them as necessary. A quality large drill can cost $100, but it can last years and years of sharpening and use.
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Yes, yes, 100%. Couldn't agree more
 
Geoff Flato said:
Drillco nitro gold in screw machine length (300n if you're looking in their catalog) are my personal favorite. Norseman and morse marxman are right up there too. Cleveland, walter, and PTD are decent too, and still miles better than anything hardware stores sell.
Get a feeds and speeds chart and set your rpm accordingly. Use cutting oil or coolant (NOT LUBRICATING OIL)
Drilling steel is easy once you know how ti do it
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Jeff, I have never used Drillco nitro gold but will buy a few and check them out. I hate drills that perform badly but I also hate to sharpen drills and have refused to do it. It seems that a few of our guys like the Drillco drills so maybe I can learn something. Thanks for your opinon. Larry
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Jeff, I have never used Drillco nitro gold but will buy a few and check them out. I hate drills that perform badly but I also hate to sharpen drills and have refused to do it. It seems that a few of our guys like the Drillco drills so maybe I can learn something. Thanks for your opinon. Larry
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I got onto drillco as a result of my local industrial supplier starting to carry them instead of morse marxman (which I also love).
If you're using Norseman drills now, I think you'll find drillco to be about equivalent if you buy the nitro gold ones. Drillco just happens to be cheaper where I am.
The screw machine (sometimes called stub) length drills are my personal preference. They are stiffer and don't tend to wander as much, and are much harder to break.
 
Kentucky said:
Yea small bits are a pain to sharpen. I only sharpen from about and 1/8" up. I can sharpen one in less than 10 seconds usually. Just a quick pass on the grinder is all it takes. Unless its a big bit
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I do it this way ...............trial and error .............. trial and error and sometimes I succeed , maybe 3 of 10 :)
 
kuraki said:
I hate when people are pedantic about simple advice offered for a simple solution rather than overwhelming the guy who originally thought his drill press has only one speed with 4*CS/diameter and talk about carbide drills when he's pulling teeth to buy cobalt.

But since that's what we're doing, RPM literally has nothing to do with "vertical accuracy." A hole can be drilled straight, and nearly as round as a drill is inherently capable of, at less than optimal spindle speed. It's a matter of tool pressure, cutting conditions, and matching the feed rate for optimal chip load. Which I'm sure you know, but instead approximated as "faster is better" for brevity.

But I mean no offense.
Click to expand...


No offense taken, I don't disagree, but I see this "slow everything down as low as it can go" mantra repeated constantly, it's become dogmatic, and an excuse for never figuring out how to use machines and tooling properly. I'm not a F&S snob either, I don't calculate optimal cutter speeds pretty much ever, but it only takes a little bit of research to have a good baseline in your head for ballparking, that can save a lot frustration. Just like people going through bandsaw blades constantly because they're always cutting crooked or the teeth are stripped, because they try to do it all with one blade at some far extreme TPI in one direction or the other from appropriate for the material they're cutting, because they don't want to spend the 60 seconds or so it takes to change a blade. True, it's probably not a big deal for a HF saw or Portaband where the blades are $10-15, but it starts being that way when you're paying $30-$150 depending on the configuration, and you'd better learn to break them in properly (which almost nobody knows about either, is super easy, and can extend the life of your blades 10x or more).

No speed doesn't correlated directly to vertical accuracy, but as you said, for brevity's sake, it's easier to say "cut at the right speed" and hope that proper pressure and chip removal will follow, which it often does, especially when you're talking about tiny, non-rigid drills in the sub 1/8" range.


I wasn't trying to be pedantic, the guy's question was answered and problem solved, I was simply offering more information, in hopes that it would encourage people to learn a little more about this topic. Either way, discourse is good, we need more of it here.
 
It all comes with a little knowledge and a lot of experience. Like Javan said, once you're able to "ball park" the speed, the feed rate can be adjusted by feel and visual feedback. Long "curly q's" are your friend. Small chips are the enemy.
When I bought my bandsaw, I had never heard of breaking in new blades but after I started doing so I was amazed at how long a new blade would last.

BTW, if you guys are gonna use terms like "pendantic" please provide the definition so us knuckle draggers wont have to google it. LOL
 
Being pedantic means being nit-picky. If you use the command "-pedantic" when compiling code it will give you a bunch of warnings about what you did wrong.
 
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