Drillbits for hardened steel?

Bobber

Bobber

Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,174
Hello, thought this might be the right place to ask this question...

I`m about to make a lanyard hole in one of my knives, this is 1095 steel, already heat-treated.
It`s a factory knife, and today I tried all the different drill-bits I have.
I even tried one of the type the locksmiths use to drill open locks in padlocks and appartment doors (no success).
They barely scuffed the steel, put a small "ding" in the blade before it got dull:confused:

Could any of you guys give me an idea of what bits I could try that would maybe work for this project?

Any help would be highly appreciated....
 
Carbide is your only chance but they are not cheap and will snap if you get carried away.

Richard
 
A Solid carbide drill

They won't be cheap

I like the very short "spotting drill" type

Keep it clamped down, keep everything straight - that's why I like the short ones- less leverage on the drill

A solid carbide drill is very brittle.
If you don't clamp it, or you use a hand held drill you can easily apply a little side torque and break an expensive drill.



If you are planning on putting 1/4" OD tubing in,
you need to go a few thousandths larger than the actual measured size of the tubing.

Measure the outside of the tubing to .001" then
check the Number sizes in a chart to see what you need.




They won't be cheap, but I'm sure you can find an east euro import cheaper than these made in the USA ones

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-2137&PMPXNO=5809010&PARTPG=INLMK32


That drill is a 1/4" just as an example.



Here- these are cheaper -
Solid Carbide spade drills - under $20 for a 1/4"

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=47&PMCTLG=00
 
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate this.
Got really frustrated at the shop today, my drillpress just ate all of my bits.
Sort of a dinner-date between my knife and my press, hehe
 
ok I had the same problem, problem solved, like a miracle, go buy the cheapest chinese mason bits you can find (got mine at a pawnshop used)
use cutting oil (or at least some type of oil to lube/cool)
lowest speed setting you can get on your machine
stop to cool item/bit if it gets too hot the carbide tip thingee will melt out
it may take a couple of bits till you learn to stop before tip melts out....
this gets this job done cheap and easy, trust me much trial and error and $$ got me to this solution

hope for your sake you have cheap chinese shit in norway also...
 
If you are cutting through the handle, the masonary bits might leave a jagged hole. Start with a Brad bit until you almost get to the steel, then switch to the masonary bit until you are through the metal, then back to the Brad. If you need a clean hole all the way through, you will need to buy a good carbide bit for the metal. The masonary bits don't have very close tolerances. If you are just cutting through the steel use the masonary bit then dress with a dremel.
 
Just the metal, I want the hole to be in the blade, just in the middle of the makers mark and the handle slabs...
Will try masons bits, but I see the carbide bits was really not that expensive either...

Thanks guys
 
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