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drilling hardened A2 tool steel ???
- Thread starter SnellJ
- Start date
the only thing a dremel will do to a carbide tipped drill is waste it. been there and done that. use a variable speed drill running slow. carbide is hard and brittle so any high speed impact is going to waste it. i use carbide rotary files in my dremel only when i cant use a slow running drill and it usually trashes it. i hope this helps.
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,957
Get a carbide drill bit or two from Jantz supply in the diameter you want. Its the only way you are getting through that blade. The ones you want start out TD with a number after. Those will cut it but crank the drill press speed up to highest or second highest speed to use it.
If you are just wanting to get artistic with it you can make a disc using an old lighter by snagging the flint wheel and sticking it on a mandrel for the dremmel. Those old wheels were usually solid carbide and will pretty much draw on anything if you want to use one for that. Back in the old days thats something I did now and then. If you are drilling a hole though you need the carbide drill.
STR
If you are just wanting to get artistic with it you can make a disc using an old lighter by snagging the flint wheel and sticking it on a mandrel for the dremmel. Those old wheels were usually solid carbide and will pretty much draw on anything if you want to use one for that. Back in the old days thats something I did now and then. If you are drilling a hole though you need the carbide drill.
STR
synthesist
So many knives so little time
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- Sep 14, 2004
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- 933
Couldn't he anneal the spot he wants to drill somehow?
Syn
Syn
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- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,957
I'm sure thats probably possible but I really am not all that familar with A2 other than knowing its a carbon steel and very tough. I can only recall one time working with it.
I'd say the easiest way would be to just get a carbide drill in the size needed from Jantz or TexasKnifemakersupply or somewhere else.
Maybe one of the other guys can tell him how to anneal it and bring it back up close to where it was afterwards without affecting edge holding or anything else about toughness.
STR
I'd say the easiest way would be to just get a carbide drill in the size needed from Jantz or TexasKnifemakersupply or somewhere else.
Maybe one of the other guys can tell him how to anneal it and bring it back up close to where it was afterwards without affecting edge holding or anything else about toughness.
STR
str is right about using the drill press and the highest speed if you have a drill press but a dreml tool will waste a carbide drill. i have used carbide drills in hand drills and a fast speed wasted it so use the slow speed when drilling by hand with a hand drill. also like syn said you can anneal the spot if its on the tang and not close to the blade where the heat can travel. you can however freeze the blade in ice and anneal the spot which i have done before successfully. i have also heat treated a knife with a handle attached in this manner before.
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- Oct 2, 2006
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- 3,238
use a sintered diamond drill (and a whole lot of lubricant)
I use diamond drills to make holes in hardened steel and it works (also works for gemstones, glass etc) use lots of lube, very low pressure, low to medium speed,let the diamonds do the work for you, be patient, diamond drills are expensive.
-Page
I use diamond drills to make holes in hardened steel and it works (also works for gemstones, glass etc) use lots of lube, very low pressure, low to medium speed,let the diamonds do the work for you, be patient, diamond drills are expensive.
-Page
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,957
I'll also pass on a lesson I got years ago using carbides. I bought my first 3/16" diameter carbide drill and used it in my Dewalt cordless 18V drill to drill a file I turned into a fixed blade. It drilled the first hole fine using that drill but shattered on the exit out the other side.
Basically it worked if you are ok with buying a $15 drill, spending money for shipping and only being able to drill one hole with it. This is especially bad when you only bought one drill, and have two more holes to drill.
In other words I'd say use a press and if you don't have one borrow one. Now when I use carbides I always keep another piece of something scrap that is hard like a scrap piece of metal or titanium under the blade or part I'm drilling for when the bit exits plus I've learned to not put so much pressure on the bit and let it do the work as quickly as it can without any slowing down or binding by trying to make it bite off more than it can chew. This heats it up unnecessarily too and can really increase the fracturing of the bit which is so hard its brittle as it is.
STR
Basically it worked if you are ok with buying a $15 drill, spending money for shipping and only being able to drill one hole with it. This is especially bad when you only bought one drill, and have two more holes to drill.
In other words I'd say use a press and if you don't have one borrow one. Now when I use carbides I always keep another piece of something scrap that is hard like a scrap piece of metal or titanium under the blade or part I'm drilling for when the bit exits plus I've learned to not put so much pressure on the bit and let it do the work as quickly as it can without any slowing down or binding by trying to make it bite off more than it can chew. This heats it up unnecessarily too and can really increase the fracturing of the bit which is so hard its brittle as it is.
STR
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,363
Only a knuckle head like me would do it this way. 
I would find a Bridgport mill.
Use a carbide 4 flute ball end mill;
Air Blast...No Coolent!!!
3000 RPM,
A RIDGID Set up.
Agressive engagement and heavy feed by hand.
Watch the SPARKS fly.
Lighten the feed upon break thru.
I have broken a many of ball end mills at work but I can get a hole drilled thru a broken 5/16 tap instead of burning it out with a EDM.
Now that you know one of my tricks, It would be good if you filled out your Bio.
I would find a Bridgport mill.
Use a carbide 4 flute ball end mill;
Air Blast...No Coolent!!!
3000 RPM,
A RIDGID Set up.
Agressive engagement and heavy feed by hand.
Watch the SPARKS fly.
Lighten the feed upon break thru.
I have broken a many of ball end mills at work but I can get a hole drilled thru a broken 5/16 tap instead of burning it out with a EDM.
Now that you know one of my tricks, It would be good if you filled out your Bio.
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2003
- Messages
- 4,270
Having occasional bouts of self torture, I forge an A2 blade once in a while. When you get it to shape and ready to grind, normalize it and then use carbide tile cutter bits in a drill press. Don't be afraid to hose it with oil to lube and cool the bit. This is the best way I have found to drill pin holes in the tang.
If the A2 is hardened, you will use a bit per hole.
If the A2 is hardened, you will use a bit per hole.
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2003
- Messages
- 1,628
Carbide is the best way to drill holes in hardened A-2, or D-2, or any of the air hardening steels. It is pretty tough to spot anneal them!
As has been stated no coolant is the best way to go. You can use coolant, but it must be a constant stream. Don't get it hot and add coolant as you will shatter the bit/end mill.
A drill press is a must with carbid. It is a brittle material and they shatter easily if miss used. There is a learning curve, but you can learn from our mistakes. This is good as a good bit is expensive!!
Be careful breaking through, light feed is needed.
One thing I have heard, but not tried is a masonary bit at high speed. Masonary bits are much cheaper and more readily available. It won't be a perfect hole, but you could drill it oversize and then peen a piece of brass in the hole and then drill your hole exactly where you want it.
Tom
As has been stated no coolant is the best way to go. You can use coolant, but it must be a constant stream. Don't get it hot and add coolant as you will shatter the bit/end mill.
A drill press is a must with carbid. It is a brittle material and they shatter easily if miss used. There is a learning curve, but you can learn from our mistakes. This is good as a good bit is expensive!!
Be careful breaking through, light feed is needed.
One thing I have heard, but not tried is a masonary bit at high speed. Masonary bits are much cheaper and more readily available. It won't be a perfect hole, but you could drill it oversize and then peen a piece of brass in the hole and then drill your hole exactly where you want it.
Tom
