Drilling hardened S30v?

Joined
Jul 31, 2007
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I'm considering getting a Ritter Grip, I have a Grip 551HG that I've added a zip tie to the opening hole to give me "waved" action. I LOVE this, and I'm wondering if I could, or have someone do it for me, drill a hole next to the thumb stud in the S30v blade, so that I could add a zip tie to achieve the same functionality?

I'm not sure how well this would work, but I'd be willing to give it a try.

I'm not sure what the thumb stud hole looks like...

BUT, what would I need to drill a hole into S30V steel? And what should I know about the process?

I know this isn't really a knifemakers questions, but I thought this would be a good place to ask this question.

L
 
A drill press and a carbide bit is what you'll need. Carbide bits can shatter pretty easy, so you'll want a way to keep the blade flat and stable, twisting on the drill is a way to break an expensive bit.
 
Normally I do a pilot hole first anytime I'm working hardened steel. Well, that is only if the final hole size is going to be bigger in diameter than 3/32 or 1/8". I've found drilling out a single 3/16 or 1/4" hole in hardened steel from scratch is much easier if you do it first in a 1/8" size and then enlarge the hole in progressive steps. You have to take it easy after the first hole to keep from seriously chipping up the bit on the rim of the first hole once you move up in size but once its down deeper than the outer surface this method reduces heat and in my experienece allows my expensive bits to last much longer. Unfortunately it adds cost for a one time hole though. Drilling hardened steel with carbides is most challenging for some and especially on the exit out the other side. I use a clamp for the work piece wearing full safety gear, high speed on the press and also clamp a hard plate of scrap steel under the blade I am drilling. This helps to keep the carbide drill from shattering on exit like it can with a soft surface right under the blade. I'd order the carbide drills from MSC personally.

STR
 
Thanks for the replies. I do not have a drill press (yet) or any high quality bits. So I might send this out to someone, I'd hate to mess up a new knife!

Where most thumbstuds live, is there a hole all the way through?
 
Each knife is made differently. Some have a recess on one side and none on the other. Some are a #44 drill size, some 3/32 some are a number 50 you just won't know until you look at them. Others are already a big hole with a press fit stud.

By the way, I prefer two flute carbides or spade drills over twist drills for working on knives. Night and day difference on life expectancy and performance. Jantz supply has a good supply of two flute drills for this and you will probably pay about a buck more or so per drill than MSC.

STR
 
STR, Thanks for your advice and knowledge. The Benchmade Ritter Grip has duel thumbstuds, so maybe if these are removable, maybe I could test the zip-tie waving through that hole.
 
Yes. It may unscrew, or press fit. I really can't say I've ever taken one ouy on that model.

If press fit and you have a drill press you can use a brass rod just small enough to be slightly under the diameter of the stud and using your drill press with that rod installed you can use it as your press and pop that stud out into a piece of wood with a nice hole underneath for the stud to fall into on the board.

STR
 
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