Drilling heat treated 440C

B

BUCK MAN BILLY

Joined
May 7, 2000
Messages
8
Any suggestions on what type of bit, and speed to use to drill into handle tang of old Buck blade?

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carbide bit and full speed, but be sure to wear a face shield!

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Take care!! Michael

Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
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Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
I was in much the same dilemma this summer. It was suggested to me, to use a glass drilling bit on as slow a speed as possible.

These bits should be easy enough to find at any hardware store. Used properly, they last for two or three knives. They're expensive for as long as they last, but if you have to drill after you HT, they're worth every penny! I can't count how many other bits I blunted off...


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Vaya con Queso!!!
 
Thanks for the respopnses. Between them and a search on blade forums, I went with the consensus. Used a carbide tipped bit with cutting oil at 600 rpm in my drill press. Drilled all three holes effortlessly with two bits purchased at Home Depot, because the first one snapped its tip upon break through even though I had a piece of wood backing it. Thanks again for the help! BILLY
 

I've drilled a LOT of D2 planer blades, & I've had my best luck using single flute (spade type)Hi-Roc solid carbide bits.
Tried the solid pressure, flood with coolant and wound up breaking bits......found it was better to peck & not let the bit dwell in the hole.
Just my $0.02
Harry
 
I'm a tight wad and buy regular ole hs drill bits. When I need to drill into hardened steel I start with the bit size I want and apply only slight pressure. Enough to make a small divit but not enough to dull the bit. Then I chuck up a nail with the head removed and apply steady pressure to the divit without coolant. After a while it will heat up a small red spot around the divit and will take the temper out of the steel in that spot enough to let you drill with a regular bit. I do it with a hand crank drill press so it ought to be a breeze with electricity.

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http://www.livelyknives.com
 
Hello, I suggest carbide bits too, make sure you use a good honingoil to keep the stuff cool and drill slowly.

Tim, Your method is appealing, but doesn't it put additional stress on the blade, because steel changes of volume a very slow bit when austenite or kristalline?

greetz, Bart.

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I don't know. I never thought of that. By softening a spot on the tang using a nail and friction you can add stress? It's something I hadn't considered. Could you go more in depth on why it might be doing that?

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http://www.livelyknives.com
 
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