Drilling steel- what am I doing wrong?

Take it slow and use carbide bits.
as forest gump might say "cheap is a scheap does".

poor bits, and for that matter the wrong kind, will give you poor results.

Oh and if you try the carbide, go slooow or you will break one quite easily!!!
 
Thanks for all the replies! To explain a little more, I'm not a complete idiot, so I do know that you have to keep the bits cool! I am also using metal cutting bits, not the ones for wood. What seems to happen is that the bit, even a brand new one, cuts really well, maybe 1/8-1/10 of the way through the steel, then in a flash it jut starts spinning and i get that "slicked" hole you're talking about. Come to think of it I have never paid attention to which pieces of steel I am having problems with. I have only used 1084 before, so I have no reference to compare it to. Hmmm. Now, another question....I do most of my work with files. If the steel wasn't really annealed, would I have trouble filing it? It seems to cut pretty easily, although I have only used Koval's 1084, so I have to real experience to compare it to. damn.
 
I can't say for sure on 1084, as I don't use it, but some hot rolled stainless steels that I have purchased, had the most God awful hard finish on it. The stuff was case hardened as it went through the rolling process, when it was red hot. If you tried to grind it off, on a belt grinder, it would ruin a new belt in a few seconds. I had 200 feet of this particuler steel surface ground, just to get around this problem. I recently found that white vinegar would remove the surface scale, if left overnight. You might try that, after degreasing a piece.
More on drill bits. Try good 135 degree split point bits. Most cheapies are the 118 degree point, but the 135 works a lot better. And I would still use a good coolant/lube. :D . Good luck.
 
Here's my 2cents,I think you are probaby drilling at to high a speed,It sounds like the bit starts to cut and then works hardens the hole which dulls the drill, Drill pressure not high enough could cause the same problem, and like the others stated use quality bits there cheaper in the long run..
 
To explain a little more, I'm not a complete idiot,[/
Click to expand...
:(
what I would do is
Get some other steel 1095 o1 or a piece of cold rolled mild steel
then drill it, if you have the same problem then it's
you,
the bits,
or coolant, if it drills ok then your 1085 is too hard.
you're drilling ok to about 1/8" depth then you have your
problem that's about right to burn up a bit for ether
reason listed. you could test it by a spark test on the grinder but you have to know what your looking for.
or have it Rockwell tested
so the easiest way would be to get a known soft steel
and repeat your actions. testing :)
 
I ran out of tapfree recently, found that ivory liquid soap or just water works well too.

I ran into this problem with some 5160 soft on the outside but still hard under the "skin" of the steel. My guess is an incomplete anneal.

The blue mol bits from Home depot have held up well. I dunno what Lowe's carries. Center drills are good.

Yep scale is extremely tough on cutting tools and abrasives, vinegar works good, or if you can't wait a B&D 4-1/2" grinder will get rid of the scale cheaper than belts in my opinion.

A friend of mine had to redrill some 3,000 holes on a field job, they used cool tool, tap free, and wd-40 the best performance they got was from Ice water.

:eek: How about that :eek:
 
As to drills, I've used HSS screw machine bits from MSC and frankly burned or broke the small sizes way too often. I now buy only Cobalt bits in the sizes down to #56 for pre-heat-treated steel, and all Titanium. I also buy solid carbide bits for use on heat treated steel (Rc of up to 61)and consider shedding a tear when I break one of those....up to $10.00 or so each, depending on size.
Get the cobalt bits from MSC...Screw Machine length is usually all the length you need. Buy them by the dozen or 10's. Also the carbide bits are good from MSC...look over the catalog and shop price.
Also do use coolant, or at least lube with TAP-EASE stick.
Also consider Carbide reamers for pivot holes, etc.
Given all the sizes you may want for knifemaking, drill bits rapidly start looking like an investment rather that minor expense.
Using the center punch, or for extreme accuracy, optical center punch, and the combined drill/countersink to start a hole is a good idea.
As to getting a short distance into steel and have it feel or act like the steel hardens, I've had this happen a number of times, even in Titanium (6AL4V). Often my problem appears that the heat of the drilling hardens the metal in th hole you are drilling or that the cutting edge of the drill bit has been dulled by the friction and/or the heat of the drilling process. When this happened and the hole had to go "exactly there", I switched to a Carbide bit and often been able to save the hole....but you are betting that doggone expensive bit on success...
Good Luck,and as my main Knifemaking Mentor says,"Speed Kills",
 
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