Drinking horns (move this if necessary)

CaffeinatedViking said:
Oh, I actually have another question: We've discussed the cleansing of the *inside* of the horns, but what about the *outside*? After all the scale and such have been removed, should a wash of water/bleach mix be applied to the outside as well, or possibly boiling the horns in a similar solution? Any other ideas?
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I think that if it works well enough for the inside, it should be fine for the outside. Of course, if there's any discolouration or anything, that'd be a different matter.
 
How would one make horn soft enough to bend straight? Like to flatten the horn for scales or something
 
CaffeinatedViking said:
And to Allan Molstad: Nothing was imparted to the Norse populace's bio sytem due to drinking from horn containers. That's ridiculous. Post a link to your info source, or at least some other *direct* reference. .
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first dont get so upset over stuff...

and 2nd, this is just what I remember reading back in school, about a sickness that was traced to a type of drink that had been served for a while from horn.

I think it had something to do with a type of drink that would soak-in to the horn, perhaps turning to rancid and causeing sickness.
Thats about all I remember, however I think that many people that now make modern drinking horns would always point out to people what they can and should not drink out of horns based on what we have seen cause problems in the past.
 
to straighten a horn, boil it in water for an hour, take it out and press it between two plates, or blocks of wood, go slowly. if you hear any cracking at all, put it back in the water for another 15 min and try again. Also, once you have them flattened, they can also be cut and shaped into forks spoons, and ladles. heated horn is very flexible and can be shaped into quite a few things. I remember someone joking that horn is natures thermoplastic. :)

oh, BTW, if you want to find out what bad stuff you can be eating, dig up the information on microwaving plastic food containers, there are more carcinogens given off there than in a pack of cigarettes, and yet that is acceptable to the food and drug agencies, while raw milk, with all its nutrients and enzymes is banned.

Ken Nelson
 
Dave Bowen said:
I would at least make sure there are no bacteria in it before drinking from it. The horn is made of keratin and it's harmless.

Mix a solution of water (2 cups) and bleach (1 CAP full)

Fill the horn and let it sit for at least an hour.
Rinse and dry.

This will kill any surface bacteria sneaking around in there.

From there, I would recommend using a sealer of some kind like the salad bown sealer used on wood bowls.
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That sound like the right way to go to me. Great Post ---------------:thumbup:
 
Ok, I know it's been a while, but I finally got around to the horns.

I decided to leave the flakey scale removal until afterwards, since I'd like *clean*, bacteria/germ-free horns before I start sanding crap hither, thither and yon.

The goat? horns, as well as a nice-sized cow horn my housemate gave me a while back, have recieved a few treatments of the "boiling water-vinegar-let-it-sit-for-a-while-and-scrub-it-out" dealy. The goat horns look ok as far as I can see, but I'm definately going to give 'em the water/bleach treatment after they dry out. I think I know what to do from there.

My main reason for posting again (without the finished products, alas) is actually in regards to the cow horn my housemate gave me:

After the aforementioned water/vinegar/scrubbin' I noticed that there was some crusty, bumpy, old-looking yellow stuff inside. For the life of me, I could *NOT* get it out, no matter how much boiling water I used and how much I scrubbed. Well, ok, a *little* came off. I just asked my housemate this evening, and he says that it's old bee's wax, since the horn was previously *his* old drinking horn.

So here's the question: How in blue blazes do I get that stuff outta there?
 
to melt beeswax cappings I'd spread it over a piece of glass with one side painted black, put the beeswax on the glass side, then fit 3 pieces of black painted wood aroun the sides and prop on two pieces of 4x2 wood, one end on a peice set on end 4" high, and the other set on the side so 2" high, and place a second sheet of glass over the top to trap heat in, with a length of spouting down pipe cut in half lengthwise and the ends blocked to catch the dripping wax. leave out in the hot summer sun.

try placing it on a rack in the oven, open end down, with a disposable metal pie tray under it, and bake, slowly raising the temp until the wax runs out.

the wax will melt long before the horn is damaged, but this may dry the horn so soak overnight when you take it out to let it re-absorb any moisture loss to stop cracking.
 
beeswax. huh. I think I used urethane on mine. been a while. sald bowl stuff.

To remove wax I'd heat the horn up to 125 or so, not too hot, then ... um, well, I'd just add more melted wax, actually. not sure how I'd get it out entirely. heating it *carefully* and waiting might work.

I need to find me a smaller horn. goat, you say?
 
im wondering if taking a propane torch to the inside carefully would melt it. of course not leaving the flame in the same area for too long. do yall think that would work? or is it too risky and would more than likely ruin the horn?
 
that will probably work if you're carefull PnSquee, might pay to wrap wet cloths around the outside to cool the horn itself when melting the wax. but horn will scorch long before it will burn. so being careful it should be possible to melt with direct lame, I'd still use indirect heat first tho, try heating a spatula and scraping the beeswax with a hot implement.
 
Hi.... Do not use open flame on the Horn it will have disasterous results!

To make a drinking cup you will only use the large end and it will not be neccessary to "straighten" the curve. You will normally only get one cup per average size horn but with a very large horn you may get two.

It can be softened either using boiling water or hot vegitable or peanut oil or a heat gun. You must be very careful with the oil and especially the heat gun as well as the horn will burn.

This is how horns are shaped to make flat powder horns.

Do this outside!!! place the oil in a deep can such as a coffee or juice can. Heat to 350-375 degree's using a candy thermometer to monitor it, then turn off the heat source. Using work gloves and eye protection as well as an apron place the horn in the oil for for only 5-6 seconds. Remove and pinch it to see if it is pliable & gradually work the horn flat between two boards.

The outside of the horn is cleaned up using either a sanding block or a furniture scraper. The scraper will be much more efficient.

If you go to Track of the wolf website and follow the prompts to accutrements then powder horns or cups you will see examples as well as scrimshaw patterns.

Jim Ziegler
 
Don't use a torch, too easy for something to go wrong, Try a heat gun instead, much more control.

Ken
 
koyote said:
beeswax. huh. I think I used urethane on mine. been a while. sald bowl stuff.

To remove wax I'd heat the horn up to 125 or so, not too hot, then ... um, well, I'd just add more melted wax, actually. not sure how I'd get it out entirely. heating it *carefully* and waiting might work.

I need to find me a smaller horn. goat, you say?
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Yeah, I think the smaller horns I have are goat. They'll probably fit about 2-3 shots each.

Thanks again for the suggestions, folks. Wikipedia says beeswax melts at 144-147F, but another person I asked thinks I should do the "oven" method, but only heat to 100F. I guess I'll start there and increase the temp until it actually starts working.

Kiwi: Thanks for the tip about soaking the horn after it's all over and done with. I wouldn't have thought of that.

*chuckles* Torches? Heat guns? Where's "Q" when ya need him?
 
I'd just pour it three quarters or so full of boiling water. The wax will melt out and float on top of the water. Pour out the water/wax mix (not in the sink though) The oven will dry out the horn, and might crack it.

I used plain beeswax in my drinking horn. If I had to do it again, I'd use 1/4 pine pitch and 3/4 beeswax, which will set a bit harder and not melt out when you fill the horn with hot mulled wine.
 
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