Drop point hunter

B

bigboysbushcraft

Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Messages
121
I am making a drop point hunter the first time doing a curved design.
I have worked on drawings probably 30-40 of them and then once I got close started changing and erasing and changing some more.
I made a wood block to see how it would look and how it would fit in the hand.

GEDC1236.jpg


I got the metal today and was happy about that I did make some changes that are not shown in the wood blank that I made to the metal. I did not curve the finger groves as much so there is less chance now of a finger making its way up to the blade at all this made me change the back just a little to match it as well. I also rounded the curves even more and I am very happy with the 1/8th thick piece of steel its thick enough to get the job done.

GEDC1238.jpg

GEDC1240.jpg
 
I like it. The wood pattern did look a bit portly, but the new handle on the steel looks very good.
Tim
 
You've probably made more knives than me in terms of quantity, but I just wanted to point out a small trick I've seen a lot of people use to locate handle pins. You don't want to center them vertically, what you want instead is to make sure that they're all the same distance from the spine. This is usually achieved by locking your calipers open a certain distance and scribing on the tang with the other blade hanging off the spine. Referencing off the spine keeps your pins looking even no matter what the rest of your handle looks like. Someone else might be able to explain this more eloquently or with some pictures.
 
This is your first knife to really be proud of. I've read all the drama and kept quiet. You're finally moving in a great direction. Keep it up.
 
Yeah just having issues with the blade edge near the riccoso thingy I need new belts for my sander to get a decent edge.
 
Much better looking than your first couple of tries. Looks like it can be a real handy knife when done.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
I like the looks but would prefer 2 pinns
Click to expand...

Agreed.
On a smaller knife like this two pins looks better. Also, if you have three pins, they almost never seem to look lined up. Two is the way to go. Just leave out that center pin and keep the front and back ones where they are.
 
Yeah was thinking 2 pins as well I think that is what I am going to do I think I messed up on the bevel some so I may have to come all the way to the top wit the bevel. I need to get some new sand paper on friday and keep at it.
 
Still working with my 3x21 inch belt sander mounted in a vice upside down. These did not come out as well as they should have I need a new belt sander.

GEDC1272.jpg

GEDC1273.jpg
 
I don't suppose there is any point in saying, "Slow down, and use files and sandpaper", as you have been advised already......... Sigh.
 
yeah back to files and sand paper its starting to clean up now I did not have a good enough file to get in there for the edge
 
You could put it back on the belt sander (flat) and thin the whole thing back down on both sides to remove your bevel that went too far up.
 
In my very limited experience, I find it easiest to cut the plunge in with a chain saw file then use my 4x36 belt sander to cut the bevel for the rest of the blade. The tricky part is to not bugger up the plunge so I also start my plunge cut a few millimeters up the blade from where I want it to finally be. Then after I get the bevel to it's pre-HT shape I move the plunge line back to where it should go and sand out the file scratches. This method was working well for me until my sander's idler wheel bushing got so wonky that tracking was erratic and would jump into the plunge and ricasso.
 
yeah I found an old shear blade vice clamp thing that would give me a nice straight guide. I found a few precision files that I had and just went back and forth like a saw cutting it just enough to give me an edge and then hand sanded back to the line.
 
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