Drying time between dye and top coat/finish?

PIndelicato

PIndelicato

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
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I've made a few knife sheaths now, but I still don't know the proper time to wait in between dyeing leather and applying a top coat finish. Is it time, or some other measure, that should be allowed for? For example, the sheath in question was dyed 2-3 hours ago, is dry to the touch so I buffed it, but it still smells of dye or solvent so I'm not sure if I should wait until the odor dissipates or if it's OK to proceed.

The dye I used is Fiebing's Pro Oil dye, and the finish I have is Tandy's Satin Sheen. I haven't been able to find this info on either company's websites or product containers.

Thanks!
 
With the oil dye I normally wait over night, it makes for a more even color. If you coat it too soon it will look splotchy. This rule is especially true with the saddle tan and lighter browns. Saddle tan really gets goofy if you coat too soon.

I try to use wax whenever possible and dont have too much experience with acrylic coatings so someone might chime in with some more info for you.
 
I should have mentioned this was Dark Brown in case that would have made a difference. I have generally waited overnight because I figured it was best and haven't been in any hurry. Yesterday I was really itching to finish this one though...thankfully I distracted myself and will apply finish today.

Thanks for the help, leatherman!
 
While I'm at it, how about drying time of a finish such as the Satin Sheen from Tandy I'm using? Same guidelines as the dye?
 
There are 2 leather/super sheens; liquid and aerosol. As a rule, the lighter the coat the better. Use multiple coats. I put on a light coat, wait 10-20 min (until slightly tacky), add another coat; repeat. I might put 4 or more light coats on depending on intended use of the item. Let sit 24 hours. Check for tackiness.
Sometimes I will add another coat or two, and let sit overnight again. Buff with cloth (linen seems to work best for me).
Leather sheen's drying time is really affected by humidity.
In my experience, if you are sealing a black item, use the areosol.
Feel free to pm or email me with any questions.
Chuck
 
Thanks Chuck, I should have mentioned I'm using the liquid version. I've been putting on a couple of light coats and rubbing them in, but I haven't been doing as many coats or waiting as long between them as you suggest. I'll give that a try and see how it works out.

Thanks!
 
Shouldn't need to rub. It sits on the surface of the leather, so I apply as evenly as possible. I like to use those cheap foam brushes that come from the $1 store.
 
I've been rubbing it on for 2 reasons:

-This is how Chuck Burrows does it in the DVD (he's using Fiebings Bag Kote, however)

-I read a while back a discussion of woes and heartache in applying final finish to leather work. It's been a while so I don't recall the specifics, but I remember people having all sorts of problems and resorting to buying various sprayers, etc., trying to get it right. Rubbing it on hasn't given me any problems aesthetically with the finish, so for now it's working for me.
 
#1 reason I dont use acrylic coatings if I can help it:

Its a pain in the rear end! :p
Wax is easy, simple, and lasts. Its renewable and allows the leather to breathe.

On second thought, ignore the ramblings of the above mentioned leatherbender, he's obviously unstable from breathing too many glue fumes!

:D
 
leatherman, when I stumbled into a Tandy store for the firs time, Satin Sheen is what they put in my hand and now I have a whole quart bottle to use up! I've not read up on wax finishes, I'll have to do that sometime.



In case this might help anyone else, here are a couple of things I got from a leathercraft forum regarding drying times:

-"It needs to be dry before you add the sealent coat. If you're not sure if it's dry, touch it with your fingers, if it feels dry & not cooler than the room, touch it to your cheek, if it feels cool, it's still damp, But, if it feels like room temp. it's probably dry."



-This was an email exchange someone had with Tandy customer service regarding similar questions:

"My Question's To Jim:

In your literature you say to let the Dyes, Stains & Finishes (super shene for example) DRY COMPLETELY , what does this mean? Does it mean when it doesn't look wet it's Dry? I realize drying times will vary depending on alot of factors, but there must be some basic guidelines. For example, I live in Maine and my house is kept around 68 deg. during the winter. How long should I wait between the 1st coat & 2nd coat of:

1) Spirit based dye?
2) Water based dye?
3) Stains?
4) Super/Satin Shene?

Thanks
*****

JIM'S ANSWER:

Good morning *****;

You are correct about different drying conditions. The humidity plays a big part also.

On alcohol or spirit dyes, ten minutes should be time enough. On water base dyes I would wait 30 minutes and the same with the stains. On the Super Shene, especially if I were using it for a block out before staining, I would wait 30 minutes and then put another coat on and wait another 30 minutes.
I just looked at a new book we came out with "Coloring with Eco-Flo" by Tony and Kay Laier. He does mention in the book to let the dyes dry but no time frame is mentioned. I think that if you do what I have already stated you will be ok.



Best Regards,

Jim *****
Customer Service Manager
Tandy Leather Factory
 
:) The rep is correct, and trying disparately to remain neutral. Dry time is ultimately relative. It truly depends on the climate and humidity of your shop/home.

Spirit dyes are the quickest to "dry" but that is a caveat, quick dry means quick to soak in too fast and become splotchy.

water based dyes, AVOID AT ALL COSTS, unless you cant, they are not the best choice for professional results

Oil dyes, good! best results when using lighter colors. BUT, they are expensive. I dont use anything else when I can do it. The only spirit based dyes I use are those I cant find in the pro oil dye, and I dont use water base, period.

Sealers:

Acrylics will seal the leather, good to a point. Your good with what you have, no issues there. Just make sure you condition your leather before you coat it. When you use a spirit based dye you will take essential oils out because of the alcohol. Paul Long has some excellent advice on how to properly seal leather with an acrylic base. I've seen him chime in on threads her regarding that.

More to come as I get time., right now I am off to cut more leather. :D
 
i just want to resurrect this thread, I had suspecians that the leather I was beeswaxing wasn't 100% dry, but I decided to start applying my beeswax into the leather today. Of course, the dry spots absorbed like mad, and the more darker (albiet now I know damp) spots didn't absorb as dark.

I am hoping that I'll be able to rectify this later by just trying to get those areas to absorb more beeswax...or did I totally screw the pooch? I left the sheath for 2 days to dry out, and I guess it wasn't 100%, my eyes told me it was still maybe damp is spots but I just had a hard time believing it after letting it dry out for 2 days (pacific northwest...). Every freaking time I do something with leather I learn something that I wish I knew before I screwed up.

Edit: I'm actually going to answer this one myself, after heating up and more beeswax the moist leather evaporated and there was even absorbtion of the beeswax. Leaving it in the oven after a few coats of the bees really helped with even distribution too..lowest heat possible.
 
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I haven't found anything in leatherwork that required two days drying time. I agree with the rep and Dwayne about everything else. Water based dyes suck for pro results. 10 minutes is fine in my experience for oil dyes.
Really, the only things I pay attention to are cement and acrylic finishes, but the only time I use those are for antique dyeing as a resist for the base coat. Being careful here is paramount in order to get results worthy of your time and effort.

Buff dyed leather well before using wax as it can pull up pigment and allow it to transfer. Acrylics do a better job of sealing the pigment, but that's about the only advantage from my perspective.

Glad you got it sorted out.
 
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