duct tape micarta?

GibsonFan

GibsonFan

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Jul 7, 2006
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This may or may not be a really dumb question, please bear with me!

I have some duct tape in a nice camo pattern. The pattern repeats about every 18". Now, I know if you stack up sheets of the same pattern in register, and cut it any which way, the pattern will still show nicely. If the "pattern" is text, you can still read it. (don't ask me how I know this) Anyway, I think a truly camo knife or machete handle would be the bee's knees.

My question is, if I make some micarta out of this, will the adhesive on the tape screw with the epoxy? I kind of don't want to waste a bunch of tape and time if it's not going to harden up right or comes out in a melted glob :eek:
 
good idea, bad medium. if you want to do camo, get some camo patterened cloth (heck real military issue camo would be great for it)

i think the tape wouldnt work well at all but doing the pattern with cloth would be rather cool.
-matt

edit~ it will probably be rather slick and im not sure if the pattern goes all the way through the tape like it will on cloths
 
i say make up a 1 inch by 1 by 1/4 inch test block then add the epoxy.

I think the problem will come with the slick surface of the tape and not the glue on it. Something you might have isues with id think would it would remain semi flexiable as well making it hard to grind. Not to say that isue could not be over come by a more carving like aproach. If so you could have a fantastic handle as it wold stay soft like rubber and yet have a very intresting look and take some serious abuse.
 
In order to get the pattern to show the way I want, I'd need to buy YARDS of camo cloth and cut it up. The pattern on each piece has to be in register for this to work; think 100 copies of the exact same photo or letter squarely on top of each other. Otherwise it will just be random brown/green/black etc. and that's just fugly. The reason I want to try the tape is because the pattern repeats in a short length.

You both may very well be right about the tape itself being to slick and there might be thin lines showing between each layer, from the backing on the tape. In any case, I've talked myself into making a test piece, I'll let you know how it comes out!
 
i want to see this. if it works im making a duct tape handle with normal grey duct tape. that would be perfect for a working mans machette or utility knife. im sure that there would be lots of buyers for that. let us know asap if that worked.
 
The test chunk is all glued- and clamped-up right now. It was a pain to get it clamped; between the slickness of the tape and the "wetness" of the epoxy it wanted to slip'n'slide like crazy. Perhaps this does not bode well... :( Oh well, we'll see in a couple hours I guess!
 
Cant wait to see the results. I bet it wont work since the epoxy absorbs through the cloth making it hard but not through duct tape.
 
Even if the block hardens OK, part of the material will still be a soft plastic and a gummy adhesive. It should prove very difficult to sand and polish. I also can't see the epoxy permeating the duct tape like it would cloth. All you will be making is resin coated duct tape, not resin impregnated duct tape.
I'm interested in seeing how it comes out?
Stacy
 
I fear you and the others are correct, Stacy, but what the heck, I had to try it out. I'm trying real hard to give it time to cure before I mess with it :)
 
Maybe it would work better if you removed the glue first. Not sure what would do that, maybe laquer thinners?
 
i just thought about something. why not try a batch where you paint on some epoxy between each layer. should probably remove the glue first. but since its not that absorbant it would probably work better if you painted on the epoxy between each layer. try that on the next batch.
 
I should clarify: I did put epoxy between each layer, since I was pretty sure it wouldn't soak it up at all. I used as little epoxy as possible to get a thin even coat. Clamped it just a "skosh" more than neccesary to hold it together, didn't want to squeeze all the epoxy out.

I might be going about this totally wrong, lol, this is my first attempt at any kind of micarta.

You guys think 3 hours is enough for the epoxy to set up good? It's Lock-tite brand 60 minute stuff.
 
Well, screw it, we're gonna find out!! :D Back in a few....

Hmmmmm....

OK the test piece is only 1/8" thick. Not hard at all, in fact I just peeled it apart by hand. I think the warnings were right, the tape simply didn't absorb the epoxy.

Back to the drawing board... now I need to find a non-adhesive cloth tape with a pattern I like.

Sorry for wasting your time, fellas... like I said, it was worth a try.
 
Another thing I didn't bother to go into (since it wasn't going to work, anyway) is that the pretty pattern you are trying to orient, is only printed on the surface. If you actually made the block and ground it, it would most likely look grey.
Stacy
 
Digital camo is UGLY. Just my opinion of course :) You're right though, that pattern would be a lot easier to line up if someone else wants to use the idea.
 
Try and make rag-micarta with the colours that make up the desired camouflage.
(brown rag, green rag, tan rag, mixed in a bundle and hardened with epoxy. When you sand that is would most likely be camouflage)
 
I wondered about that too Racerx2003, but I have visions of the ink just about dissolving from the epoxy. I haven't tried it though so who knows.
 
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