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Dec 10, 2009
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I know to get a burr on both edges when sharpening, but what about touch ups? I don't want a wire edge... So is touching up fine without going for a burr, or is it ok to simply touch up an already sharp edge?
Thanks.
 
If the edge is sharp leave it be or try stroping to clean it up. When i touch up an edge that doesn't need a full resharpeing i will take my finest stone and do a micro bevel maybe 10 degrees steeper that i would sharpen it at. I dont raise a burr, i use almost no pressure and do a few strokes on each side.
 
If the edge is sharp leave it be or try stroping to clean it up. When i touch up an edge that doesn't need a full resharpeing i will take my finest stone and do a micro bevel maybe 10 degrees steeper that i would sharpen it at. I dont raise a burr, i use almost no pressure and do a few strokes on each side.
This is good advice. Stropping will generally bring an edge back from anything other than a chip or roll. I very rarely resharpen my own knives.

As for "touching up" with stones goes, just set a micro-bevel as described above. If you're using a fine stone you won't be able to feel a burr, but you are making one. As long as you can see the micro-bevel forming you should be ok.
 
No burr necessary for touch ups.

For my EDC, a strop is all that's needed. If a lot of cuting was done, maybe the Sharpmaker with Ultra Fine stones.

For my kitchen, a few strokes on the Sharpmaker.
 
Depends on the steel and the extent of damage to the edge.
My go to (assuming the bevels were sharpened properly to a nice constant apex that formed a really sharp edge to start with) is to take my Spyderco Ultra Fine triangle rod to the edge at as close to the original apex angle as I can. If the edge is pretty beat up (waved, a very small amount of roll or other microscopic anomalies one learns to detect while sharpening) I might go to the corners of the triangle after a couple of passes on the flats to see how that goes.

Depending on the steel alloy I might use ONLY edge trailing strokes or edge leading strokes.
On some of the more stainless steels I get a foily super light "burr" that I can not get rid of with the ceramic rod. In that case I head for my Norton 8000 water stone for some super short super light passes and that usually takes it off.

Very subtle stuff. I find the easiest sharpening is on the highest quality steels and of those on the least stainless. Love me some 1095 and M4 and even M390 which is stainless but OH so nice to sharpen.

Ceramic rod and a chunk of Norton 8000 shown bellow. That's my "stropping".

 
For me, 'touching up' an edge generally means restoring it to a previously, well-known baseline of cutting performance. This means I've already used the knife for a while with an edge I gave it (to a full burr, the first time), and I have a clear picture in my mind of how it performed when that edge was at it's best. So, if it goes a little dull, I don't necessarily expect to re-form the burr while touching it up; or, at least forming the burr to the same degree.

I'm a strong believer that a little bit of burr is always a good thing, as it provides the proof of a full apex. But in a quick touch-up of a blade I'm already very familiar with, I'm usually just looking to see if it'll get back to a well-known benchmark for cutting, based on what I've previously known it can do. That gauge is easy in itself, as I almost always test an edge by slicing fine paper, like phonebook pages, as well as checking durability of the apex by making a few cuts in wood, for example, and then re-testing how it cuts the paper afterward. If all is done well, the edge will continue to slice easily through the paper without snagging or slipping. If it snags a bit, that's almost always evidence of the burr folding over (which obviously verifies it's there). I'll do what's needed to clean up the burr, and then recheck everything again. So, I might find a little bit of burr in touching the edge up; but, I'm not necessarily expecting to see it, if all the cutting tests pass with flying colors.


David
 
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