During which time period

F

Fujimo

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did Buck use the shield with the knife, hammer and nail? I have several of these, mostly model 315's, and was curious as to when they were made.
 
Fujimo,

Here's my home-made list of 315s, seven versions. From oldest to newest. If anyone can improve on this I would appreciate hearing. There is at least one rare special version I won't list to avoid confusion. I have looked hard and have not 'collected' a couple...Ages 1972 to 98.....Metal bolsters oldest.......300$s

1. Metal bolsters, Tang marked BUCK Made In USA, 315 on opposite side, solid spring
2. Metal bolsters, tang marked BUCK 315 USA, solid back spring
3. Metal bolsters, tang BUCK 315 USA, partial serrated blade
4. Metal bolsters, tang BUCK 315 USA, SPLIT back spring
5. NO metal bolsters, BUCK 315 USA, no scale rivets, BUCK hot pressed into one scale
6. No metal bolsters, BUCK 315 USA, no scale rivets, nothing marked on scale, Solid spring
7. No metal bolsters, BUCK 315 USA, two scale rivets on scale, Split spring
 
That shield started with the first 300 series knife we introduced. It was the model 301 back in 1966-ish.
We still use it today although there was a brief period of time, during the 1980's, that we replaced the familiar logo with the word BUCK. We got so many complaints we changed it back.
Hope this helps.
300$s--nice list, I did not know there were that many! :) I still think that the 300 series is a category that a guy can collect without going broke. Lots of variations out there to keep it interesting too. Do you have all the brass
300s?
 
Joe,

True about 300s but in my world the prices have risen. One might say I have contributed a little to that, one might, but I will keep info coming here, even if it does cost me Bucks (a quip)......will be to glad to help anyone if I am able.

The Brasses, in the fourth quarter about less than 10 yards to go. Boy a serrated secondary blade 311 is really hard to find. Will bring a full set of 317s to Idaho bash if I can find just one more(Some getting pricey as they are popular with scooter folks).....300$s :foot:
 
This may be beating a dead horse on this thread but here is some "knife Science", photos of Buck scale shields thru the ages. Usually described by the hammer design. There is some debate that there are two lengths of open ended, long oval hammers, some do look longer and straighter. Again I will appreciate any correction or additions....:- ) 300$s

Oldest- short open ended hammer, long oval shape


Next phase - open ended hammer, racetrack oval shields, hammer is a tad longer?


Newest - closed hammer, straight oval shields


80's experiment - Buck


Special Runs - Usually company special runs, either long oval or straight sided oval shields
 
Was the "open end" hammer a mistake??? Or some kind of malfunction at Buck??? :confused:

The knife & bolt look OK "closed"...odd that Buck would leave the hammer "unfinished"... :rolleyes:
 
Mine are the long oval, open hammer shield.

I also have a couple of no shield 315's, idential to the Camillus 695.
 
Good question CT, I would like to know.
For those just starting out, don't relie just on shields for ID, they fall off and can be switched or even glued upside down. You can take a junk knife with a good shield and move it to a better shieldless knife, and call it mint. But as Bernie Levine always says "look at the whole knife". As long as the shield is correct for the version and is in good shape that is all you need worry about.

In my opinion, deeper pressed heavy lined shields are less attractive than the fine lined (engraved looking) shields. I am sure a lot has to do with costs, suppliers, machine requirements, etc.

In my early days I bought a 301 that someone had glued a Parker eagle shield on, thinking I had something unusual.
Goose will like this, at the end of auction, I realized I had bought it from family friend of ex's. Oh well, live and learn. If beginners will join BCCI and read forums, look in archives here, you will be well ahead of the dumb and dumber curve......:thumbup: 300$s
 
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