DVD project moving forward

DannyinJapan

DannyinJapan

Joined
Oct 9, 2003
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Yesterday we did some stuff for the video.
I believe we did three of four techniques, the rod allen hanshee and the kerambit. (sorry demon, no choice)
I think the last one the defender had both of them in his hands.
I think youre gonna like this new video, I will be slimmer and the editing will be nicer and I wont have to go over basics and hammer home the concepts that I did in the first one.
This time we can do some fun, crazy stuff and you guys can play with it all you want.

Maybe next week we will do falcatta versus 30" gelbu special...
 
fer my segment? I guess I need to get cracking so I can make the compilation! I'll show some falcatta stuff that is not necessarily specific to the particular weappon, but useful for single edged swords. But I must add my fave stuff for double edged swords (because that other edge ain't fer looks) and shield. I may also dispel some sword myths perpetuated by stage fighting and hollywood, and do a bunch about footwork and engagement distances.

So, you vid-makers like Danny: What's the next step fer this guy?

Keith
 
Well, can you get a friend to videotape you ?
I can take it on almost any format and put it into my computer and then add it into the DVD.
shoot as much footage as you want and then tell me what you like and want to use.
 
I'll shoot it on VHS and then send you the tape. I'll see what preliminary editing I can get done, or give some instructions on it. I gota line up me fight-partner, too.
 
everybody else, this goes for you too.
VHS, dvd, vcd are ok for me.
also, use good light and send me whatever you want along with a note explaining how you want to do it.
I will stick it in the dvd and it will have a format similar to the first DVD

If you have music or a title page, send me that too!
 
I is lookin' forward to some of the sword and shield stuff.

What diameter shield and how thick of a material do you use?
 
missed this earlier...All sorts of diameters, from bucklers just big enough to fit over your fist to huge 'war doors' (like 3x4.5 foot shields) We make em outta 1/2" to 3/4" plywood. Some are strap and handle, some are center boss (handle only).

For the vid, I'l be using a 28" with center boss (hand only) and a 28" medieval round (arm strap and handle), and bucklers about 12" across.

Keith
 
I was bored one day and made one out of 3/4" plywood. It's 28" in diameter and is heavy (at least for me :()

What does one use for a boss. Do you buy em' premade? I used a cap for chain link fence posts. :)

Can't figure out what to use for metal edging either. without this, it just sort of looks like a tabletop.


Eventually I'll try something thinner. Maybe I'll make four and hang em' outside of my car. It'll be the Viking car. All I'll need is a good hood ornament. :D
 
Bruise,
I am glad to hear you are having fun with this.
3/4" is thick and ought to work well.
However, 28" is probably a little big for you. I am over 6 feet and I only used a 22" targe when I did some scottish sword stuff.
So, why dont you cut it down to 18", 20" or 22".
That is plenty big.

Yes, you can buy a premade shield boss from Museum replicas and I think there are many other SCA suppliers who sell them too. I bet the SCA guys also have the metal edging, but all you need is some 1mm aluminum or steel.

the western MA guys may disagree with me on this, but when I did renn faire stage combat, I was taught that the shield was wooden and had a soft metal rim to catch the sword edge, not necessarily to deflect it.

I had a scottish targe, so it didnt require a boss or rim. A scottish targe is covered with leather (nagahyde) and brass upholstry tacks around the edge and in the middle. You can put your initials or a smiley face or whatever you like.

For a handle, glue and tack two strips of leather. Make them 2" wide and maybe 12" long. lay your arm on the shield the way you want it to sit when fighting and have someone put the leather strips down over your arm and trace out the edges with a pencil.
(The straps should be at an angle to your design if you want it to look right when you hold the shield naturally)

One strap is for your arm in front of the elbow, the other one is for your palm or wrist if you want to have a dagger.
 
easy to make by dishing/doming sheet steel with a ball peen hammer and a dishing stump and doming post. ;) Easy to purchase fromm many sources.

Some cultures/periods used the shield to absorb/catch weapons, others to deflect. The wooden round shield in its incept was to catch/control more than deflect, as the shield was center gripped and not strapped to the arm, allowing more range of movement to turn the catch against the opponent, such as forcing a disarm or opening.
By the medieval (europe) period, all-steel or steel rimmed/faced shields had the same purpose as plate mail armor (and also modern armor cavalry) -- providing deflection planes. This change in design and fight technique allowed the shield bearing fighter to have a more open stance, and still be quite protected.

I'll make a note to go over that stuff, show some good and bad shield practices.

Keith
 
Thanks for a cornocopia of assistance.

I did a search and found a couple of sites for shieldmaking. As for the boss, what guage steel. Dunno if I'll attempt it though. It looks like it requires some skill.

I reckon I might go and get me some more plywood this weekend. :)
 
Bruise,

I think anyone that made the cup hilted kuhkri can make a boss for a shield.

I helped with one, and once you got into mode it well pretty well. We just used an old extra large cookie sheet.



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If I had a title I think it would have to be Thread killer. I think I've killed more threads proportional to my number of posts than anyone.
 
You want 12-16 gauge, no thinner than 16ga.

Do a search for "center boss" shield boss" "making shield boss" etc. Most production armorers will produce a nice one for 15-50 USD, depending onn design, construction, etc.

Keith
 
I'd like to try. How is the part where the screws put in done and what do I use for a round or conical shapey thing?

MRL no longer has em' and another place won't ship em' to my neck of the woods. :( I guess they're like kevlar helmets. They're too dangerous to ship.

The search continues.
 
I got one from a Canadian maker, but shipping was almost 1/3 the cost of the boss.

The flat lip around the boss is made last, you first want to planish and dish the piece (these are some olde tyme armor fabrication terms).

Dishing-the act of pounding the sheet of flat steel into a depression, usually one made in a log by drilling/burning out a bowl or 'dish' like depression. When alternated with planishing, you can get some wonderful results, and you'll never believe it was a flat sheet of steel. To start dishing, you need your sheet of steel cut roughly circular (you can trim it up after to even it), perhaps in a diameter of 8-12 inches (go with the larger circumference if you want a higher dome on the boss, smaller if the dome will be less pronounced)
You start by centering it over the depression, and hitting it with a rubber mallet to get the rough shape. Then ya move on to the ball peen hammer, using the ball end to continue dishing. Move the piece around in the dish to get the desired shape (dont worry about all the marks from the hammer, the bumps will be worked out during the doming process.


Doming - The act of taking the partially dished steel and turning it over on the planishing rig (which can be a railroad spike hammered into a log--they work really well for big and small pieces) and hitting it with the hammer poll end of the ball peen hammer. (you now know the original source of the ball peen hammer--the plate armor and helm industry!) Doming allows you to work the other side of the plate, so you can even out any consistencies.

I've left out bunches, but it's a start. Don;t worry if it looks uneven or lopsided while working, thats the way it is. When the piece is almost entirely covered inside and out with hammer marks, you knnow you;re getting good. all that hammering and shaping work-hardens the steel, making it strong as heck.

Word of warning on MRL armor--it is tinfoil, folks. 18 gauge is fine for show, but not for go. I've had my helm stepped/stood on in melees (while my head was in it) . It's 14-16 ga. steel, with reinforced wrought iron bar on the front. Don't try that with their stuff.

Keith
 
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