Dye for sheaths

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Dec 17, 2008
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Well i know this isnt the right room but i knowyou guys will help. I have just bought some ECO FLOW brand dye from Tandy I dont like it one bit .Does anyone else have trouble with it and I switched from Fiebings but ill be buying more soon as im out of this other stuff. What that dye seems to do is like soak in and leave blotches or should i say patches of darker then lighter areas . The fiebings stays constant as i did a comparison tonight and was brutal to say the least. kellyw
 
Kelly next time try dampening your leather first and see if it makes a diff. in how it comes out. I used to get uneven dying till i tried it.

Bob
 
I tried it and hated it as well....I was looking for something else because my Fiebings Oil based dye was stinking it up, uneaven dying, etc. I went to Fibings Alchohol based dye and my troubles went away. Good luck.
 
I had the same problem with Eco also. Two things, do like Fred suggested and dampen the leather and switch to Fiebings Alcohol dye. Right now I am trying some natural dye. I made some out of Pecan Hulls and I just soak the whole sheath in it and it comes out a nice light brown. One last thing, Chuck Burrows suggests to also wipe the leather down with alcohol first too. Helps take any glaze off of the leather.
 
While we are on the subject of leather dying, does anyone know the contents of so-called "dye reducer"? Is is just rubbing alcholol or some other common chemical? I am wondering if I need to spend money for the commercial stuff.

Phil
Winthrop WA
 
Guys i forgot to mention I soak my leather 5 min then towel dab it and then let it sit 5 min its very soft and the other dye works great . I will try some rubbing alcohol on the next piece and see if it helps prior to soaking in warm water. Also this leather is veg tan 7-8 oz just to let you all know. Thanks kellyw
 
Eco-flow hasn't been getting any great reviews on the leather forums either.One thing you should be doing that may account for some is deglazing the leather.Some use acetone, but I was taught to use Oxalic acid (aka Wood Bleach).Mix with water and it deglazes and cleans the leather prior to dyeing.Dave:)

http://dcknivesandleather.blademakers.com/
 
I guess I am the minority with using the Eco Flo stuff. My main problem was the stuff drying and leaving thick residue. What worked for me was laying the dye down first with a dauber or whatever, wipe, then use a soft bristle toothbrush dipped in dye to lightly scrub the dye into the tooling and also to remove the residue, wiping immediately after. Of course some would say that I should not have to do that but I have not had the chance to take the time to try the Fiebings stuff and get a system down for that stuff. To seal in the dye I airbrush resolene the day after I dye. I still use the Eco Flo stuff.
 
I guess I am the minority with using the Eco Flo stuff. My main problem was the stuff drying and leaving thick residue. What worked for me was laying the dye down first with a dauber or whatever, wipe, then use a soft bristle toothbrush dipped in dye to lightly scrub the dye into the tooling and also to remove the residue, wiping immediately after. Of course some would say that I should not have to do that but I have not had the chance to take the time to try the Fiebings stuff and get a system down for that stuff. To seal in the dye I airbrush resolene the day after I dye. I still use the Eco Flo stuff.

I also don't have any problem with the Eco Flo, so far. I've only done a small sheath with it so far but didn't notice any blotches. I also soak and and scrub the leather with a fingernail brush under warm running water before dyeing and I use a moistened piece of wool cloth to apply the dye.
 
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