Dyeing thru out

bladsmth said:
Using alcohol based stains and dyes is preferential to water based. After all, you want the lowest moisture content possible when you stabilize.
Place the dye mix in a container and add the wood scales/blocks. Let soak for days or longer. Test cut a piece and see how the penetration is. Pressure and/or vacuum can help in some cases.
Click to expand...

sorry guys i need help. i have tried to dye some burl and it will not get past the surface. i can however completely penetrate some maple. both are done with alcohol and powered dye that is supposed to be used for plastic and clothing. i also tested a pine wood block and it is very easy. i have saw where some say wait a long time but then again i see where some companies say push and pull several times. adding pressure and then pulling a vacuum.

i have let the burl wood sit for minutes and then for hours. its all the same. i have not let it sit for days.

would acetone work better than alcohol?

i am using the push pull method of pulling a vacuum and then waiting and adding pressure to the tank with a air compressor. first i use the powder and the alcohol to dye the wood and then wait for it to dry and hope to use 90C to stabilize it.

also this off brand of 90C says to heat it in water for 10 minutes and not an oven. that is all different from what i see others post regarding this process.

1. my vacuum pump will pull a good vacuum or the gauge shows it does. its not a walmart type its a real industrial grade and famous name.

2. my tank i made from high pressure water pipe and flanges 1/2" thick to 5/8" thick with 8 22mm bolts to hole the home made lid on. the tank is 8" in diameter and sealed with a rubber gasket. i have checked all hoses and fittings with soap and water to watch for bubbles. that took a long time to get it 99.5% sealed.

3. i have a industrial vacuum gauge that says i am pulling about 25 to 27 on a 30 dial.

so its not a mickey mouse setup. i think i need a bit of over kill to allow for my errors.

any advise will be most welcome. i am only stabilizing for my self no intent to resale the wood.
 
Not trying to be sarcastic, but saying "I don't know, it is burl", is like asking advice on why a blade won't harden , and saying about the the metal "I don't know, it is steel".

A good photo might help, but if you don't know what it is, it is hard for us to give advice as to how to deal with the problem. Many species have an oil or resin that will prevent penetration. The type of dye you are using is also not specifically made for wood. And, as you said, some types require pressure and time for penetration.

I would normally give you the name of one of the wood pros to ask directly, but the first question they will ask is, " What type of wood is it?".
 
i only know its burl. i can in time try to find out. today i do not know.

it will not take the dye and not take the 90C either.

i tried a acetone dye or stain and it will also not work.

i have pulled a vacuum that is about 25 or so on a scale of 30 several times. i have added pressure of about 100 to 110 and i get nothing. the test block is still floating. after 30 hours of pushing and pulling it.

the maple will float till it is saturated and then it will sink in a short time.

i would like to ask. my 90C is a clone i think. its not the brand name. the report from the supplier for it says almost the same that loctie says. but since i have never saw real 90 C i have no idea of the thickness of it. what i have seems to be the thickness of about 2 in 1 oil. its not thin like the alcohol i am using for the dye.
 
Curly maple dyes and stabilizes with 90C very well. I suspect there is some othe problem.
 
Carl_First_Timer said:
Where did you get the wood? Is it already stabilized? The handle on my user picture is curly maple dyed.
Click to expand...

the wood is chinese burl.

it is not stabilized that i know of it was in blocks when i cut it. to shape

i have had good results with the same wood that is not burl. dyes well and seems to take the 90C clone well. i have not cut a piece in half yet to check for 90 C penetration but it sinks in the tank.
 
bladsmth said:
Curly maple dyes and stabilizes with 90C very well. I suspect there is some othe problem.
Click to expand...

i get a slight penetration with alcohol and dye. its not complete. it is the same with the 90C clone.

the wood has been in storage for 2 or 3 years and its dry. the burl i have to ask about it.

today i want to try to use acetone with the dye.

got any ideas about this?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top