Dymondwood in the round

L

Lone Fortress

Joined
Aug 20, 2013
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After a google search has turned up very little, I've decided to just make this post here. I've worked with dymondwood before-with very unsatisfactory results due to it chipping and even splitting apart. However-I believe this was mostly due to me improperly working it considering that in a effort to save money, I was trying to saw the slabs in half. I now know that it requires a fine tooth blade and since I'm working with a cylinder this time instead of slabs, I've decided to give the material a second chance.

I've recently got my order in and have unfortunately noticed cracks on both ends of the cylinder. I understand that working around defects in some materials are to be expected..so is this normal or is it a defected piece and how should I proceed? I'm going to trim the material down so I could simply cut the cracked sections off-but am thinking that I should apply some CA to the ends as they are not significant.

I would also like to know if this material has to be buffed, or if a simple hand finish is sufficient.
 
I would call the supplier, I do not think it should be cracked at all, I have not worked with Dymond wood so I cannot say but for me if I received scales or a block with cracked ends I would call them immediately.
 
I have seen thousands of slabs of dymondwood in diamond billiard products warehouse. never seen one with a crack in it. I would contact the supplier as well.
 
I agree with the others, it should not be cracked. I always buff any I use on knife handles.
 
Well I've noticed that one of the cracks is far more significant then I thought as it appears that one of them runs for about ~.5" down the side. I contacted the company and they said they'll send a replacement and a return label so that issue should be taken care of.

Now as to my second question. I am not noticing any local hardware stores to carry the size/type of buffing wheels I need-seems that all of them have 5/8" arbors when my grinder calls for 1.2". I have also never changed any wheels on it (and I brought it over 5 yrs ago), so they are locked on. I can't afford a buffer and I'm assuming just a handfinish will look horrible for this material, so what are my options?
 
I will probably get struck by lightening for saying it but in your case if you can't find the right wheels, if you have a dremel with the polishing discs I would do that if no other option. I am sure there are other ways to do it that someone will pipe in shortly that will be better than my suggestion.
 
I may be able to offer a solution. Before I had a buffer and was working with dymond wood early on, I polished by hand. What I did was cut strips of denim about 1.5 inches wide by 18 inches long. Scrubbed the buffing compound stick on it to load it up, and went at it with the shoe shine method. It was a bit slower but actually worked very very well. I always sanded to at least 6 or 80" grit before doing this. It's actually still my preferred method when polishing buffalo horn or the like.
 
Grayzer86 said:
I may be able to offer a solution. Before I had a buffer and was working with dymond wood early on, I polished by hand. What I did was cut strips of denim about 1.5 inches wide by 18 inches long. Scrubbed the buffing compound stick on it to load it up, and went at it with the shoe shine method. It was a bit slower but actually worked very very well. I always sanded to at least 6 or 80" grit before doing this. It's actually still my preferred method when polishing buffalo horn or the like.
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I'm hoping you missed some zeros and meant 600-800 grit, right?

Frank Niro said:
A very good find, Grayzer86. The dremel thing will not work. Frank
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Why will the dremel not work? I polish quite a lot of things with my dremel buffing wheels...
 
Well my dremel is only single speed-so would likely simply sling all of the compound off. I'll give Grayzer's method a try. According to the supplier-it's Jackson Cr/51 rouge that I need.
 
LucyCustomKnives said:
I'm hoping you missed some zeros and meant 600-800 grit, right?



Why will the dremel not work? I polish quite a lot of things with my dremel buffing wheels...
Click to expand...

Yes you are correct, I did mean 600 to 800. Typing on my stupid phone. I even went back to edit it and it never showed up as edited. Thanks for the catch there.
 
Lone Fortress said:
Well my dremel is only single speed-so would likely simply sling all of the compound off. I'll give Grayzer's method a try. According to the supplier-it's Jackson Cr/51 rouge that I need.
Click to expand...

Ah... Buy a cheap dimmer switch type cord. Its a brushed motor and won't hurt it at all. I have three rotary tools. One multi-speed, one variable speed and one single speed on a sliding dimmer. I have been running it like this for probably 10 years. That one actually stays hanging up with a flex shaft attached. Without my rotary tools I'd be lost...

The orangish red Northern variable speed rotary from HF will actually fit all the dremel accessories. Basically a direct copy with a different color body.

I do a lot of shoe-shining technique too, and would be lost without the shop rolls as well.

Microsuede, which I found useful for lining kydex primarily, is also about $3 a yard at WallyWorld and is great for buffing. It is uber soft and loads up really well.

And to the OP. Dymondwood should have zero cracks and actually be very hard to even split. In my day job our best night sticks are made from Dymondwood (diamondwood w/e) and cocabolo. I can say they take impact and abrasion very well without splitting. Splits would indicate a flaw with the resin I would think.
 
Well I got the replacement material today....but it is much worse then the other one was...

The crack is much more noticeable (actually have to look for it on the other) with light clearly being able to be seen through it when held at a angle. There is also a obvious lamination line going all the way down the side (when the other doesn't have any) and smaller lamination lines seen in other areas.

I'm going to send the replacement back and use the first one I got then call it quits with this material-atleast in the cylinder form. Scales and blocks are probably less defect prone.
 
A dremel most certainly will work. It will take a lot longer and a bit of finesse on your part, but it will work.
 
Dremels have VERY limited applications in knife making. Especially the single speed ones. I have the variable speed with the flex adapter, and I still only use it (with diamond burrs) for cutting slots in guards. A single speed without the flex adapter would be all but useless to me.
 
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