easiest good folder lockinf mechanism

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catcalls

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May 7, 2012
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I am interested in making a couple folding knives that lock, but don't know what kind of lock to shoot for. I have seen many good examples of custom linerlocks and lockbacks, but was wondering if , or which would be good for a beginner. Just going to get it out there that I don't have a mill, or access to a mill.

Would it be better to start off with a slipjoint? I have .140 steel(that is the thinnest I have)
 
Friction folder would be the easyist, and a good place to start. I think frame/liner locks are very tricky without a mill (or even with a mill.)
 
I made a friction folder, but it didn't seem to be what I was looking for. Tutorials I have looked through seem very tricky to make a good locking folder.
 
No folder is easy!

Slip joints and lock backs are the hardest to make 'right'.

Liner locks are by far the easiest. Basically a friction folder with a locking liner.

Mill is optional.
 
You don't need a mill for folders. I make automatics that are lockbacks, picklocks, button-close, and lever locks- all by hand.
 
Thank you all for the help. I will do a ton of research before I venture into anything, and I am in no hurry to begin.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
You don't need a mill for folders. I make automatics that are lockbacks, picklocks, button-close, and lever locks- all by hand.
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How do you keep the tolerances close enough? Are you sanding on a granite surface plate and just very patient?
 
Surely you jest!
Knives are very simple machines. They don't require precision tolerances. A machinist making a knife may require those tolerances, but a knifemaker making a knife doesn't. You simply hand fit all the parts.
 
For folders, I use a mill to relieve the backside of the bolster on the lock side of a linerlock, to give the lock a bit more travel room. I also use a mill to cut the slot for a release bar on a rocker type auto. And I'm now cutting nail nicks with a mill on slip joints.

I can do any of the above without a mill and I find no other need for a mill. But the mill is handy for the above mentioned jobs.
 
Interesting.. I've never considered doing a folder yet because everything I'd read had basically stated to do it right you need precision gear. Maybe I should look more into it, thanks guys.
 
I personally find a surface grinder much more useful than a mill. But if a guy were to start with precision ground stock a SG is not needed. All my blade stock is forged and a SG beats the hell out of gettin steel flat with a belt grinder. :cool:
 
I would love to have a surface grinder! I've been meaning to look into those price wise etc recently.. It's been in the back of my mind, but short on cash at the moment, just ordered a bunch of steel (thanks Aldo) and other supplies too.
 
Having made 20 or 25 folders, I can really see why a surface grinder and a mill would really bump up the quality- at the same time, I've made some buttery smooth liner locks and lockbacks that people are very proud to own and carry without those tools.
The issue for me is that I want them more consistent and tight.
Bringing a backspring, lock bar or spacer to good even tolerance by holding it on even a perfectly smooth platen is an exercise in frustration at best...though "good enough" is sometimes pretty good.
 
Not a folder maker myself, but I find getting perfectly flat by lapping easy, with a little practice and some tricks, but damn near impossible on a belt grinder.

A disc is pretty doable with practice, although I do usually just surface grind. Still, having not yet modded my SG to belts and being too lazy to change wheels on my SG, I usually get as nice a finish as I can when doing ricasso or guards, etc, and then go to 120 or 220 paper on a plate and lap the rest.

I'm likely to get it more out of square than in square on the belt grinder personally.
 
I watched Harvey Dean get his ricasso flat to within 1-2 thousandth on the platen.. but damn, I can't imagine how that's even humanly possible to be that accurate and steady.. although I watched him do it.. but give me a surface grinder lol.
 
Don Hanson III said:
For folders, I use a mill to relieve the backside of the bolster on the lock side of a linerlock, to give the lock a bit more travel room. I also use a mill to cut the slot for a release bar on a rocker type auto. And I'm now cutting nail nicks with a mill on slip joints.

I can do any of the above without a mill and I find no other need for a mill. But the mill is handy for the above mentioned jobs.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the derailment, but what is a rocker type auto? I gather from context and your use of separate terminology that it is nothing like a backlock, midlock, lockback, etc.
 
gomipile said:
Sorry for the derailment, but what is a rocker type auto? I gather from context and your use of separate terminology that it is nothing like a backlock, midlock, lockback, etc.
Click to expand...

It has a rocker bar release in the bolster. Press the back end of the bar to release the blade. These are usually made with a liner lock. I made over 300 autos, most of this type. Don't make many anymore, just got burned out on em...
 
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