Easiest grind to field sharpen

[me2]

I'd say full flat for me. The microbevel techniques will work on any edge, not just a scandinavian edge. My Buck is currently sharpened to a 20 degree microbevel on a 15 degree back bevel, on a reground full flat grind. I've had it a long time and had to regrind it. It was originally hollow ground.

 

[Jmanwit]

I was (as seen in the pic) looking at the scandi, but Convex may be good as well.

I like your design btw, simple and to the point. :thumbup:

Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Jmanwit]

Now, how easy are (and I hate saying it, as it is starting to sound like "tactical" to me) "BUSHCRAFT" tasks with the convex edge? I want it to be good all around, but this knife will accompany me while i hike and i think basic bushcraft skills such as feathersticks, batoning and notching will be very important. Also, I have heard that you need other thing with you (strop etc.) whereas I would love to minimize the needed space in the field. How true is that?

 

[Blop]

Are we talking about maintaining an edge in the field or a full resharpening or reprofiling of a weared down edge?

Do we follow the rule: sharpen early or not?

If the last, it is more a question of what you want to take with you rather than the blade grind. A weared down edge is weared down.

But any edge can be maintained over some time with a crock stick or a small stone by just going over the very edge.

It´s a question of time and how often this is done before you have to do more, to keep the blade profile.

I do maintain my convex ground edges with a crock stick or small flat stone over time.

I would just follow the instructions of gränsfors bruks about how to sharpen a convex axes blade profile.

 

[wildmike]

Convex. And they are extremely easy to maintain in the field with a regular flat stone. I use a Fallkniven DC4 stone diamond on one side ultra fine ceramic on the other. take along a white vinyl pencil eraser to clean the DC4 with.

If I want to keep the edge insanely sharp then I can easily include my small strop loaded with 1 micron and .25 micron diamond compound.

That isn't usualy needed since the knives usualy stay sharp for a long time due to the blade steels I use.

 

[Jmanwit]

Are we talking about maintaining an edge in the field or a full resharpening or reprofiling of a weared down edge?

Do we follow the rule: sharpen early or not?

If the last, it is more a question of what you want to take with you rather than the blade grind. A weared down edge is weared down.

But any edge can be maintained over some time with a crock stick or a small stone by just going over the very edge.

It´s a question of time and how often this is done before you have to do more, to keep the blade profile.

I do maintain my convex ground edges with a crock stick or small flat stone over time.

I would just follow the instructions of gränsfors bruks about how to sharpen a convex axes blade profile.

I was talking about maintaining an edge, over an extended period of time away from Civilization.

 

[Calebklyne]

You can always sharpen convex on your jeans if need be and I find my convex blades have the best edge retention

 

[A.L.]

On top of that, you can sharpen convex with regular v sharpening method.

 

[grizzled gizzard]

I don't think field sharpening a convex blade on a flat surface is as hard as people are making it out to be. I mean, you're not really going to have it perfectly convexed as it was before, but you're just doing a touch-up not a total honing job.

+1 to this. ^

I don't really think it makes any difference what kind of blade or edge profile you start out with, they are all going to have approximately the same edge when you are through rubbing your knife on a krock.

Scandis may make it a bit easier, but I think microbeveling on any rock is folly. You are probably looking to get your knife coarsely sharp, and you should probably be happy with that, since you didn't bring so much as a DMT "credit card", dummy.

 

[Gossman Knives]

How long do you plan on being out? I've never had to resharpen in the field. I'm talking about an overniter or out for a couple of days/nites. If you go out with a fully sharpened knife, there is really no need to resharpen unless you roll or chip out the edge.
Scott

 

[Blop]

Yes, an extended period may be a few weeks, a few month or more than a year.

less than a year can be done with a two sided stone and some good technic, regardless of the blade profile.

Over a year and in mind, that there may be no sharpening tools except what nature offers, or if the option to resharpen the knife wothout modern equipment is intire part of the concept, i would go on scandi grinds compared with steel grades with low carbide volume. Carbon steel like 1085 and that type comes to mind.

 

[bladerique]

Here's bladeforums' "pict" and his take on the topic from the wilderness of Brazil:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqm2iB9jMyI

 

[Hammer27]

What about a chisel grind? I know they aren't always popular, but its only one side of the blade. Full flat grind on one side, flat on the other. All you would have to do is go at it on the one side then knock the burr of the other with one or two passes.

 

[Alberta Ed]

Can't say as I have any problem field sharpening on my DMT Diafolds, whether Scandi, convex or V grind. The technique is only slightly different for each.

 

[Blop]

What about a chisel grind? I know they aren't always popular, but its only one side of the blade. Full flat grind on one side, flat on the other. All you would have to do is go at it on the one side then knock the burr of the other with one or two passes.

There is an austrian knifemaker, who uses this:

http://www.69nord.at/simplysharp.htm

Don´t violate any rights.

 

[Hammer27]

There is an austrian knifemaker, who uses this:

http://www.69nord.at/simplysharp.htm

Don´t violate any rights.

I'm pretty sure no one owns the chisel grind. Grayman, Emerson, and countless others use it without going at each others throat.

 

[J.Davey]

What about a chisel grind? I know they aren't always popular, but its only one side of the blade. Full flat grind on one side, flat on the other. All you would have to do is go at it on the one side then knock the burr of the other with one or two passes.

Have to agree with this. I'm not a big fan of chisel grinds, but they are pretty damn simple to maintain.

 

[R.H.Clark]

Nearly any grind will sharpen easily in the field if the edge isn't too thick or too hard.My choice would be carbon steel about 58 RC with a convex grind.I would do a full height flat grind and get the edge fairly thin and then convex to zero.

 

[effer]

I have never had to do this, but I would imagine that if you're going to sharpen with a rock/stone, then you're not going to do a perfect job and mostly will be working on a bevel right at the very edge. Even if it is a scandi grind, I wouldn't want to do the whole grind on a rock.
The thinner the edge - the easier it will be to sharpen, no matter what kind of grind is there.

Here is a field kit I was using for a while for convex blades.
Mouse pad on Altoids tin with sandpaper of different grits inside. Strop on the other side. Compact and light kit. There also some room left inside for the other small stuff.
Best thing about it, is that I don't have to concentrate on the sharpening job. No need for special setup, just hold the tin in one hand and sharpen the knife with the other hand. I can do it while sitting by the campfire and relaxing at the end of the day. Using 220 grit I can repair the damage, if I need to, and other grits all the way up to 3000 and stop to polish the edge (and grind) and make it razor sharp. Cheap and effective.

 

[Ankerson]

I have never had to do this, but I would imagine that if you're going to sharpen with a rock/stone,

I have and more than once.

It's not too bad as long as you can find a flat stone, and if it's pretty smooth like in a river you can put one heck of an edge on.