Easiest to sharpen steel that holds an edge the longest.

lambertiana said:
For me, the best bang for the effort is CPM-M4. When you consider how little it takes to sharpen compared to the edgeholding, it's a winner in my book.
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agreed, cpm m4 is the cats meow for me. it does take some effort to remove damage though.. all in all, probably my favorite steel currently.
 
From my experience s35vn has a great edge retention to ease of sharpening ratio. It is the best I have experienced so far and I have used it and s90v, s30v, vg10, 14c28n, 440a; 420hc, 1095, 1.4116. For how similar edge holding of s35 is to s30, I feel s35 sharpens quite a bit easier. I prefer steels that take a fine edge and hold it for a moderate amount of time that can be easily touched up. So for me I prefer these three: s35, vg10, 14c28n. Those three best meet my requirements for EDC use. At the moment I couldn't choose just one. I may be leaning towards s35. But for a very thin edge I may lean towards 14c28n. Of all these steels though I feel 14c28n may have the best edge stability. It holds the finest edge longer than the others and touches up with a few swipes on stone. But for sheer cutting endurance without being difficult to sharpen choose s35vn.
 
microtech85 said:
From my experience s35vn has a great edge retention to ease of sharpening ratio. It is the best I have experienced so far and I have used it and s90v, s30v, vg10, 14c28n, 440a; 420hc, 1095, 1.4116. For how similar edge holding of s35 is to s30, I feel s35 sharpens quite a bit easier. I prefer steels that take a fine edge and hold it for a moderate amount of time that can be easily touched up. So for me I prefer these three: s35, vg10, 14c28n. Those three best meet my requirements for EDC use. At the moment I couldn't choose just one. I may be leaning towards s35. But for a very thin edge I may lean towards 14c28n. Of all these steels though I feel 14c28n may have the best edge stability. It holds the finest edge longer than the others and touches up with a few swipes on stone. But for sheer cutting endurance without being difficult to sharpen choose s35vn.
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That's interesting I always assumed s35vn to be quite difficult to sharpen without diamond stones or ceramic. The vanadium is really what led me to believe that.
 
noob93 said:
That's interesting I always assumed s35vn to be quite difficult to sharpen without diamond stones or ceramic. The vanadium is really what led me to believe that.
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S35vn was designed specifically with the ratio of performance to ease of maintaining in mind. It's quite good, but in my experience I prefer 154. You get a small increase in performance, maybe, but a noticeable increase in difficulty sharpening with s35vn.

I'm happy to use either, but if I'm limiting myself to traditional bench stones, I'm sticking with 154.
 
T.L.E. Sharp said:
S35vn was designed specifically with the ratio of performance to ease of maintaining in mind. It's quite good, but in my experience I prefer 154. You get a small increase in performance, maybe, but a noticeable increase in difficulty sharpening with s35vn.

I'm happy to use either, but if I'm limiting myself to traditional bench stones, I'm sticking with 154.
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Are you sure?, IIRC correctly, the tweaks to the composition were made so the steel is easier to work by the manufacturer, not by the end user.
 
I have one knife with CPM 154 and I can't freehand it. I really like it though, but I always did well with my Vic and Case knives. Being able to get a razor's edge just freehanding pretty much negates the need for a premium steel to me. Of course the one premium steel blade I have is a Barlow with a screwdriver. That was my dream knife way back in the day, that's the only thing keeping it in my pocket.
 
Plus 3 on M4, been my favorite steel for years. The 154 steels are a good bet if you are new to sharpening.

Russ
 
IMO, it doesn't make sense to talk about keeping an edge in absence of talking about what kind of cutting is being done. IME, things like cutting cardboard, rope or meat is one thing and favors carbides while wood working is another favoring a keen edge that resists break-out from lateral stress.

IME, some steels require better tools and techniques to sharpen.
 
IMHO this is a question that one has to answer for oneself. I like to think I'm above average (although far from great) when it comes to sharpening freehand, but there are knives that I absolutely hate to sharpen--and I'm not entirely sure why. Two knives with the same steel can require different levels of effort to bring back into shape. At least this is the case for me.

I personally think much too much ado is made over steel composition. Obviously the blade must have a minimal level of hardness and toughness, but beyond that there are much more important factors to consider.

But I eschew the "super steels" altogether, so perhaps I'm speaking nonsense.
 
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pinnah said:
IMO, it doesn't make sense to talk about keeping an edge in absence of talking about what kind of cutting is being done. IME, things like cutting cardboard, rope or meat is one thing and favors carbides while wood working is another favoring a keen edge that resists break-out from lateral stress.

IME, some steels require better tools and techniques to sharpen.
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There's no need to over think this. It doesn't matter what type of edge, the question is to whether a specific metal will be easy to sharpen after losing an edge. Just a basic simple question.
 
No CPM-SxxV steel should even be considered. S35VN is NOT easy to sharpen, it requires harder abrasives to sharpen and much more time than lower alloy steels. With Vanadium and Noibum as the main high hardness carbides you will need diamond abrasives to properly shape and sharpen the bevel.

Next you have the issue of perceived edge retention. Most expect a knife to actually feel sharp and hold that sharp feel until just before it's actually dull. CPM steels don't do this, their style of edge holding is decided by their wear resistance and as the wear resistance increases it only seems to get worse. Basically, you quickly loose the high degree of edge sharpness and it gets replaced by this toothy but somewhat dull edge that stay that way for an extended period. Works well for cutting tough and fiberious materials but lacks delicate cutting ability because it's fine sharpness is long gone.

I'm the type that prefers high degrees of sharpness so I select steels that get very sharp, hold it for extended periods and don't take excessive amounts of time to sharpen. My only exception is CPM-10v, this steel is no walk in the park to sharpen but the edge retention puts every other steel to shame.

For easy to sharpen steels you need to stay with the simple stuff, 420hc, VG-10, 1095, 52100, and I would even throw HAP40 in the mix, it probably one of the better steels for the requirements but in limited production.
 
singularity35 said:
Are you sure?, IIRC correctly, the tweaks to the composition were made so the steel is easier to work by the manufacturer, not by the end user.
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It is a bit of both. Who sharpens it first? :D

I'm with Jr on the ability issue. I use a cheap stone and ceramic rod. S35vn has provided great results for my uses.
 
bt93 said:
There's no need to over think this. It doesn't matter what type of edge, the question is to whether a specific metal will be easy to sharpen after losing an edge. Just a basic simple question.
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Yup. No need to change the topic. Might make for an interesting different thread though.
 
I agree with Jason B. S35 is not easy to shsrpen when compared with 420hc or 1095. However, i believe it stirkes quite a good balance for those who want enhanced edge retention while not becoming more of a burden like s90v. I feel that of the high wear resistance high alloy steels, s35vn is one of the easiest to sharpen. It certainly has been for me whe compsred with s30v and s90v. Also, i personally feel the upgrade to s35 benefits me, the user; i enjoy the extra toughness and the benefit of being easier to sharpen and i feel that it takes a better edge than s30v. I dont really subscribe to the idea that s35vn was simply to satisfy manufactuerers. I say this because most are still using s30v and many use even higher alloy steels like s110. If a steel requires more time grinding, then thr manufacturer increases the price to compensate. That is my opinion on the topic. Summsry: i consider s35 to have more desirable attribites than s30v for my personal use because i put a premium on easy maintenance and keen edges. It does seem that s35vn is a finer grain.
 
Also, just to show my strel preference, i also really like vg10 and 14c28n. I like how sharp of an edge they get and how easily it can be achieved. I have the 940-1and while it is an exquisite edc knife that is so pocketable, i havent been carrying it as much because i do prefer the keener edge that tocuhes up more easily. and as far as keener edges go, my vg10 spyderco delica ss with hollow grind and kershae leek in 14c28n hold that keen edge longer than my cpm steel knives. But again, for high alloy steel, i feel s35vn has come closest to those steels for keen edges of all the cpm steels i have used.
 
154 for me, I can sharpen it easily on my sharpmaker and maintain easily. It holds its edge nicely. I had zero luck with the sharpmaker and a blunt S35VN blade.
 
Amongst others mentioned here, I've also found HAP40 to be pretty good!

Edit to add: I see it's been mentioned already... Still love it though!
 
;)
Jason B. said:
No CPM-SxxV steel should even be considered. S35VN is NOT easy to sharpen, it requires harder abrasives to sharpen and much more time than lower alloy steels. With Vanadium and Noibum as the main high hardness carbides you will need diamond abrasives to properly shape and sharpen the bevel.

Next you have the issue of perceived edge retention. Most expect a knife to actually feel sharp and hold that sharp feel until just before it's actually dull. CPM steels don't do this, their style of edge holding is decided by their wear resistance and as the wear resistance increases it only seems to get worse. Basically, you quickly loose the high degree of edge sharpness and it gets replaced by this toothy but somewhat dull edge that stay that way for an extended period. Works well for cutting tough and fiberious materials but lacks delicate cutting ability because it's fine sharpness is long gone.

I'm the type that prefers high degrees of sharpness so I select steels that get very sharp, hold it for extended periods and don't take excessive amounts of time to sharpen. My only exception is CPM-10v, this steel is no walk in the park to sharpen but the edge retention puts every other steel to shame.

For easy to sharpen steels you need to stay with the simple stuff, 420hc, VG-10, 1095, 52100, and I would even throw HAP40 in the mix, it probably one of the better steels for the requirements but in limited production.
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To include hap40 is to include my favorite, M4. Neither are too difficult to sharpen and both give a good payoff. I have luong`s m4 test knife from his original multi steel showdown which is 66hrc and it demands dmt plates in good condition but with those and sound techniques it takes and hold a great edge for a really long time. I know we are a small group but if you have been here any length of time and can't sharpen most any steel you just aren't paying attention........:rolleyes:

Russ
 
From the knives I have had/used 3V and PD1 are great, easy to sharpen with good edge holding. 20CV and M390 are as well. M4 is great. Have been wanting to try some of the nitrogen steels, see how the ease of sharpening vs edge holding is.
Sounds odd, but I have found K390 to be one of the best easy to sharpen vs edge holding. Very easy to get hair popping sharp too. Not easy to reprofile the edge, but for maintaining an edge, with the right tools, it is very easy.
 
INFI is ridiculously easy to sharpen, and will hold it through a good amount of use.

1089 CroVan was pretty easy as well.

ZDP 189 as easily been the most difficult for me, as much as I try I just cannot put an amazing edge on it although it will hold whatever I put on it for a long time
 
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