Easiest way to sharpen a knife

craytab said:
More great advice. I don't worry about angles unless I want to. If I am reprofiling a thicker blade to be more slicey I pay more attention to thinning out the edge and making the angle more acute. Mostly though I go with "my angle" which is where my hand feels the most comfortable when sharpening, rather than some exact degree. Works fine.
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I have been trying to learn how to sharpen free hand and I get my knives pretty sharp and Mirror polished but I can never get it to be hair popping sharp no matter what stone or angle I use for some reason
 
Practice, practice, practice. I started out trying to freehand sharpen on a dual sided whetstone. I did not have the confidence or knowledge or patients to do it. SO I got an edge pro apex, this is one of the expensive systems you talked about. This taught me how to read the steel, get my angles, get a burr. Now that I have this knowledge, I am going back to freehand on my stones. Like others have said. Get a cheap knife that is soft and easy to sharpen, practice on that. Once you are comfortable, you can move up to better, harder steels. It is exactly like the soft steel, it just takes longer.

The problem with belt sanders, like the worksharp ($100) or the harbor freight belt sander ($50) is that they remove too much material and, especially for a beginner, can ruin a knife
 
How about one of these?

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That's what I use anyway, just take it slow and it seems like a very natural thing to do.

After a while the knife will slice a nail right off :)
 
craytab said:
More great advice. I don't worry about angles unless I want to. If I am reprofiling a thicker blade to be more slicey I pay more attention to thinning out the edge and making the angle more acute. Mostly though I go with "my angle" which is where my hand feels the most comfortable when sharpening, rather than some exact degree. Works fine.
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This big time!!!!

The human mind is an outstanding computer. If you don't over think it, your hand and eye will find the right angle if you even halfway know what you're doing. Its like instinctive archery. You don't look at the arrow, or try to figure the range to target or sight down the arrow shaft. You just concentrate on the spot on the target and release the arrow. It's kind of a surprise at how how it goes right where you want it when you just concentrate on the spot you want to hit. Never look at the arrow, bow, or anything else. Like tossing a basket ball through a hoop. Or balling up a wad of paper and tossing it into the trash can several feet away.

You can over think the whole knife sharpening thing. You can try too hard. JUst put the knife on the stone at a 90 degree angle, like you're going to saw down through the stone to cut it in half. Now take that angle and lay the knife over halfway to laying it down on the stone. This will be about a 45 degree angle, give or take a tiny bit. Don't worry over a degree of angle. Then cut that angle in half again. This is about the angle, give or take a bit, that you will sharpen at. Move the knife blade in a small circular pattern or a back and forth scrubbing motion or whatever, keeping in steady contact with the stone.

All sharpening is really is a process where you grind off metal on both sides of a blade to create a new edge where the two planes meet. Not rocket science.
 
I tried practicing on 2 cheap knives and they look so damn sharp with that mirror polishing i put on them using the strop and they cut/tear through paper but won't even shave one hair, I used 3 stones, diamond double sided, ceramic, leather strop. Note: the knives I used had no edge to begin with so I was basically "re-profiling" -or at least trying to- them from scratch. if anyone has any links that teaches hot to get burr and how to get rid of it that would be GREAT. Also does the spyderco sharp maker can re-profile a blade if it has nicks on it or it is just for maintaining the already sharp blades?
 
Try searching for "sharpening system" on eBay.
There is a system that mimics a very expensive system but only sells for $20 or so.
It's "automated" in that you set an angle and forget it. You just have to slide the stones back and forth.

Some will scream that it is thievery, but the original patent has run out, so it's legit.
Just know that some have said the stones may not be the best quality, but they can be replaced with better ones.
 
I think starting out freehand is a bad idea because at that stage you probably don't understand enough about blade geometries. The Sharpmaker is excellent because using a Sharpie and the two angles provided you'll learn a lot.

This business about needing to sharpen in the field is WAY overblown. Most people don't even go into the "field". I do, and have never needed to sharpen a knife while there.

I'd also recommend along with the Sharpmaker to buy a loupe (magnifying glass). 22x is probably a good power.
 
I use a 1x30 belt grinder. But the only reasons i can properly sharpen knives on it is 1. I have many years of experience sharpening knives on stones and a strop. and 2. I have started making knives, which means a LOT of time with steel on a moving belt= practice. I would NOT recommend that to a beginner.
 
Hamido said:
I tried practicing on 2 cheap knives and they look so damn sharp with that mirror polishing i put on them using the strop and they cut/tear through paper but won't even shave one hair, I used 3 stones, diamond double sided, ceramic, leather strop. Note: the knives I used had no edge to begin with so I was basically "re-profiling" -or at least trying to- them from scratch. if anyone has any links that teaches hot to get burr and how to get rid of it that would be GREAT. Also does the spyderco sharp maker can re-profile a blade if it has nicks on it or it is just for maintaining the already sharp blades?
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It sounds like you already have all the gear you need, just have to use them properly.

Practice only on knives that have no value to you, go buy some at Goodwill, garage sale etc.

Use only the coarse side of your diamond hone to start. Grind one side till you feel and see a burr along the entire length. Flip and repeat. Remove the burr with light leading passes on the same stone. Wrap a sheet of newspaper around the stone and strop on that. Inspect for residual burrs and remove them with light leading passes.

Off the coarse diamond stone you should be just able to shave arm hair and casually slice (maybe not push cut) crossgrain newspaper.

Work your way up to finer finishes only after you can use the coarse hone reliably. Many accomplished sharpeners go no finer than that anyway. Stay away from the compound-loaded strop until you have a solid understanding of basic sharpening so you can tell where the wheels are falling off - more polish does not equal more sharp.

Go slow, keep your movements small, study your hands and the knife and try to minimize woobling. This thread shows how I approach the mechanics of hand sharpening and a quick view in use. Also a link to Bgentry's post on his Seven Secrets of Sharpening. Watch a few Murray Carter videos and in particular study his mechanics. Any time you watch a sharpening video study the way folks hold and move the tool across the abrasive.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1356738-Freehand-technique

And a few pages from the Washboard manual that deal with burrs - on the second page where I show dragging across wood followed by trailing passes, when working with a diamond hone use only leading passes.

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postoak said:
This business about needing to sharpen in the field is WAY overblown. Most people don't even go into the "field". I do, and have never needed to sharpen a knife while there.
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The sharpmaker can easily be taken into the field. Of way more importance than needing to sharpen out in the middle of a field somewhere is the ability to easily sharpen a blade with as little to get in the way as possible. If as was suggested above, a belt sander is relied upon 100% what happens if the power is out, or that cheep sander dies, or you run out of belts? This is what I am talking about when I say sharpen in the field. There is little to no setup, maintenance, or reliance on anything other than yourself when sharpening by hand. This would include the sharpmaker which is actually just sharpening by hand made more simple. I have a work sharp and if I only used that to sharpen and maintain my knives they would be dull a lot. I don't even set it up if I have less than 3 knives to sharpen.
 
HeavyHanded said:
It sounds like you already have all the gear you need, just have to use them properly.

Practice only on knives that have no value to you, go buy some at Goodwill, garage sale etc.

Use only the coarse side of your diamond hone to start. Grind one side till you feel and see a burr along the entire length. Flip and repeat. Remove the burr with light leading passes on the same stone. Wrap a sheet of newspaper around the stone and strop on that. Inspect for residual burrs and remove them with light leading passes.

Off the coarse diamond stone you should be just able to shave arm hair and casually slice (maybe not push cut) crossgrain newspaper.

Work your way up to finer finishes only after you can use the coarse hone reliably. Many accomplished sharpeners go no finer than that anyway. Stay away from the compound-loaded strop until you have a solid understanding of basic sharpening so you can tell where the wheels are falling off - more polish does not equal more sharp.

Go slow, keep your movements small, study your hands and the knife and try to minimize woobling. This thread shows how I approach the mechanics of hand sharpening and a quick view in use. Also a link to Bgentry's post on his Seven Secrets of Sharpening. Watch a few Murray Carter videos and in particular study his mechanics. Any time you watch a sharpening video study the way folks hold and move the tool across the abrasive.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1356738-Freehand-technique

And a few pages from the Washboard manual that deal with burrs - on the second page where I show dragging across wood followed by trailing passes, when working with a diamond hone use only leading passes.

00000005_zpsfdit50io.jpg


00000006_zpsxa37gpqy.jpg
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Thank you, that's exactly what I was looking for!
 
HH gives excellent advice :thumbup:

One of my common recommendations and frequently used sharpening options is the DMT coarse followed by some stropping for final burr removal. As said, this will produce a great edge and is ideal for folding knives, my HAP40 Delica and K2 in 10v steel which is my daily carry both sport this edge. Quick easy and effective.
 
Understanding the edge itself is more valuable than any single tool or product. This knowledge allows you to sharpen using anything that is harder than the edge itself. There's a long list above. I can name 20 more; some suggestions are whats popular at the moment.

Its worth your time to locate someone in your area who will share this knowledge. Many people on this forum possess this knowledge, each approaches the same problems just using different techniques. The goal, with slight variation, is the same. Depending on how you learn, kinetic, text, visual imaging, audio; search a source and acquire the knowledge of what happens when trying to sharpen an edge. Then you can grab a ceramic cup, or a window edge and create a nice edge.

Have fun, Fred
 
jmh33 said:
Lansky, KME, Gatco and a few other guided systems.. These are super easy to learn to use.. John:thumbup:
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I agree. Once you get good with them you can move on to free hand if you want to, but these systems are easy to learn.
 
Great advice here..Especially from HH.
If you ceramic stone touch up with strop each time you use..things will be easier as well. (Don't let your knife get real dull)
Also, as mentioned...Practice free hand sharpening "at right angle" until you get comfortable with it .
No short cut for results, just practice...
 
I agree with the fact that you should learn the basics of how to raise a bur and knock it off. Get a small stone or diamond rod and a leather belt and practice consistent angles. Once you understand the basics you'll be surprised at what you can sharpen with. Sharpening itself is actually a rare occasion when most of the time you simply need to straighten the edge with a steel or strop.

I disagree with the fact that you need to painfully crawl before you can run. You won't have any sharpening system in the field other than a small stone, rod or rock. So buying any system of any kind is the same in that regard . Secondly if you ask me what is the best and most consistent way to get a fire going, I am going to say a butane lighter. Some of the advise is that you should learn to rub sticks together first or you will burn the forest down. Simply put, I think you are smart enough not to start with any knives of value regardless if your using a sander or stone. We all start with cheap kitchen knives till we get good. Its all good advise. When you are tired of messing around with coffee cups and wet stones get the sander for professional results quickly. BTW... convex is the superior edge for slicing and strength.
 
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I agree with what HH said above. If you already have three double-sided (I assume DMT) diamond bench stones of various grits, some ceramic stones, and a leather strop, you probably already have everything you need unless all the diamonds have been knocked off. Read the stickies (read them thoroughly), dive in, and ask questions here if you experience any frustrations (which you likely will). I understand the frustrations of the occasional posters who declare that they, personally, cannot learn to sharpen a knife. But I strongly feel that -- unless someone has a mobility issue, a deformity (or other physical disability), or a learning disability --- they can indeed learn to sharpen a knife.

My reflections on this thread:

For a beginner, I do not recommend belt sanders or other powered devices.

I also do not recommend starting with pocket stones, river rocks, or the bottoms of coffee mugs. Don’t get me wrong; those work great. And once you know how to sharpen on a bench stone, you’ll have the principals down, and you’ll be able to sharpen anywhere. Even if you are somewhere where you don't have ceramic wares and can’t find a single rock, you can even sharpen the old Dutch way with sand and a plank of wood. But I recommend developing sharpening skills on the easier and more forgiving platform of a quality bench stone at least 6" in length, if only to make the learning curve less steep.

If you want to get the SharpMaker, that is fine, too. It’s a great system... with a few caveats. You will need the diamond or CBN rods if it is going to be your primary system (and those cost as much as the basic set), so you’ll have to spend about $110 total if you are buying new. And you’ll have to modify your technique. I do not recommend the Spyderco DVDs because Sal does not demonstrate sharpening a totally dull, dinged up knife from start to finish. (There's a reason people jokingly call it the "SharpKeeper.") But that’s exactly what you are going to be doing. The official one-stroke-alternating style will simply be too slow (see the video I made years ago below, which is also mentioned in RayseM’s post above -- I did not invent this method. I learned it from CrimsonTideShooter, aka J. Davis). If you try to sharpen a truly dull or damaged edge the official way (especially if you are using only the stones they provide you with the base system), it will just be too slow to be worth your time that way when there is a much more efficient way to do it.

Yet another option I would recommend is the HH washboard system. You can do anything with it, from reprofiling to touching up... plus the manufacturer is a regular contributor here, so you can direct any questions you have directly to the source.


[YouTube]ywogvxTQGXk[/YouTube]
 
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