Easy Micarta Production. Possible?

A

Augus7us

Joined
Oct 9, 2014
Messages
694
Hey Gang,

I've tried my hand at making micarta a few times now and while I really enjoy making my own, I really hate making it because the process is just a mess.

I am using a 2"X6" with a couple of boards screwed to the sides making a "U" and another 2"X6" with a 2"X4" screwed in the center length-wise and it basically makes a fat "T" shape that fits in the "U" channel for a piece that is 12"X3.5". I clamp it down with large C clamps. The design works pretty well in that it keeps the material from sliding around when I tighten it. I also cut and adhered two pieces of 12 gauge sheet metal to the top and bottom of the press because I was getting wood grain imprints in my micarta. All in all it works well enough, but man is the process messy and a PITA.

I've dunked my gloves in the resin, poured the cup on the material, used popsicle sticks, putty scrappers, etc. Nothing seems to work well or at least quickly and with less mess. So I was going to embark on making something more complex and thought I would ask you guys if you do anything different that takes some of the pain out of the process? What I've described above is pretty much what I've seen or read from the DIY guys but I'm sure there are other ways folks are using and this can't be how the big production guys do it.

Some thoughts I had was making a press with some method to "squeegee" the resin back and forth into small reservoirs on each end I can use to keep the resin from glopping out onto my bench and squeegee it back to the other side after new fabric is laid down. I've also thought of sewing the fabric together at the corners first then filling a freezer bag maybe a 1/3 the way full and submerse the material in the bag and try massaging the resin into it for as long as possible then putting it in the press.

The rushing to put each layer down before the stuff dries is just a horrible process to me, in fact I can't imagine anyone enjoys this part!!!
 
You need a longer setting adhesive so you don't have to rush so much. Try using West System epoxy with their 207 hardener. It.gives you longer setting time, is clear, and has UV resistance.

With longer setting time you can take your time and I guarantee it will be less messy.
 
Thanks Shane. Oddly enough yesterday I realised I bought 207 instead of 209 hardener when I bought epoxy last and read it was for cloth and thought it might work in place of the fiberglass resin I was using. I'll give that a shot next go, but honestly I don't think it sets up much slower than the resin I was using with reduced hardener. A lot of my time seems spent trying to make sure there are no wrinkles in the layers as I put more on. I suppose I'll get quicker as I make more of it though.
 
I've only done it a few times, but i have had good luck with my method for mess management so far, so this could help... first you'll put on 2 pairs of rubber gloves and get ready for adventure.
- I first have all my sheets of material laying off to one side of my bench.
- i have a large corningware dish (12"x 16" ish) in the center and saran wrap layed out on the other side to lay the material on once it's soaked in resin.
(the plastic wrap keeps most of the mess contained and keeps my epoxy from sticking to the mold)
- Mix epoxy in an old can and pour it into the corningware dish so you can manipulate strips of material on a flat large surface.
- i pick each piece individually and thouroughly soak it with epoxy by hand (that's why the first set of gloves) and use a bondo squeegee to take off the excess then lay it on my plastic wrap.
- Continue for subsequent layers till desired thickness, then take off the first set of gloves leaving a fresh set so you're not getting the rest of your equipment soaked in slow cure epoxy.
- wrap the saran wrap around the pieces and then put it in the vice/press and voila... clean up and wait.

Hope this helps.

Royce
 
First thing - DON'T reduce hardener to slow curing on any good resin. You need the exact ratio for most resins that are hard enough to make MyCarta. If you need slow, use slow hardener. Cold temps will also help slow down the cure. Some use a pan of ice under the work pot.

Second - pour the resin after mixing well into a wide shallow bowl or pan. This is the work pot. The shallower the depth, the slower it sets. This also makes saturating the cloth easier.

Third - Don't worry too much about wrinkles. A little wrinkle can add a nice burl look to the MyCarta. Some folks place a loose and tangled layer of paracord in the press frame to make the layers ripple. Clamp down hard with a couple big vises or a hydraulic bottle jack. BTW, make the top block of the press frame a tad smaller than the frame. You need some "seepage" room.
 
One, all mold parts need to be waxed for release, as I am sure you have done.

Two, try vacuum bagging. That is, once the layup is done, wrap mycarta in saran wrap and tape all seams shut. Now apply vacuum to bag. Instant 15 PSI of uniform pressure. Start with a nice flat surface, say marble. Place lower saran wrap for bottom, layup 10-20 alternating directions of soaked cloth, now top saran wrap. Seal edges, attach vacuum.

And if you give the excess epoxy somewhere to go, you get closer to optimum ratio. In reality, its much less than you think, once the materials are saturated.

Larry
Tinkerer
 
Thanks guys, good suggestions as always. Tinkerer I line my mold with wax paper but I have run into an occasional batch where the paper gets torn and it sticks to the mold so I will try some wax going forward.

I like the shallow cooking pan, that does seem much better than trying to glop it on which gloves...

Thanks Stacy, I was using fiberglass resin but did order some 209 harnder for my epoxy and will try that next. That's interesting about the wrinkles adding character, never really thought of it that way.

So do you guys like saran wrap better than wax paper? I can typically peal most of it off and have had good luck with it so far. And one last question what type of gloves are you guys using? I bought some cheap non latex gloves and the resin melts them towards the end!
 
I've only used fiberglass resin. But I dip the material into the resin, squeeze it out, then lay it flat with my fingers getting all the wrinkles out. It seemed to work well for me. Contain everything in a large freezer bag then head to the shop press to cure.
 
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