EDC/EDC2 Fastener Barrels

[TRfromMT]

Also, try using the hex wrench to go THROUGH the barrel and press on the end of the small screw on the other side, from the inside. I try not to press on the barrel, lest I deform it.

 

[PeteyTwoPointOne]

I've pulled scales several times for swaps or fastener retrofits and never experienced that. My process (shared because it has worked for me, and should not be seen as superceding what Nate wrote above!):

-With two wrenches, keep the sig side allen screw stationary while loosening from the LA side.
-Remove all LA side screws.
-Remove LA side scale.
-Set scale aside and rethread the LA side screws into the exposed fastener barrels finger tight.
-Lightly tap the heads of the LA side screws until the barrel is driven through/into the tang and the sig side scale is loose. (I generally do this with the butt of a screwdriver with a hard plastic handle so as not to mar the screw head, and have not yet had it take a ton of pressure to get them to move this way. I remember one or two barrels sticking hard enough to grip the screwdriver by the steel and tap harder with the side of the handle.)
-Remove the LA side screws again and set them aside.
-If the barrels are sticking at all, a little wiggle of the sig side scale generally extracts them the rest of the way.

This ^^^ worked for me on a LC...

 

[xxwarderxx]

Maybe hit it with a little lube before all the screwing and tapping so you don't have to resort to punching??

This.

Punching usually leads to things tightening up, so I'd only punch if that's what you are after.

 

[Lorien]

 

[PeteyTwoPointOne]

So do you think, once removed, very lightly adding some white grease <like FinishLine or Chris Reeve Lube> would help prevent galling and make the whole process smooooother?

But to be honest, the only time I've removed handles on my LC it was so easy I would have never imagined anyone had trouble before....but now I'm looking at preventative maintenance.

At the moment I just have the LC and an EDC but I have bought multiples of handles from Jo, so this thread has caught my attention....thanks OP!

 

[Lorien]

I don't think that galling is a problem, although I guess it could be if salt water or another type of corroding agent worked its way into the knife somehow. If you're totally paranoid, a tiny bit of copper anti seize might ease your mind

 

[Keoneloa]

Hey guys, awaiting a set of unbuffed linen micartascales to swap onto my HDFK... got the original scales off without issue thanks to all the tips here, question though--is it necessary or recommended to add any type of sealer or lubricant to the tang before reassembly? thinking only of rust prevention... is this just OCD overkill, which I am always liable to? thanks for any advice

 

[ATJ999]

Hey guys, awaiting a set of unbuffed linen micartascales to swap onto my HDFK... got the original scales off without issue thanks to all the tips here, question though--is it necessary or recommended to add any type of sealer or lubricant to the tang before reassembly? thinking only of rust prevention... is this just OCD overkill, which I am always liable to? thanks for any advice

Every few months I take my scales off, add some oil to the tang, and put the scales back on. If I leave them oil free, I get rust underneath.

 

[Keoneloa]

thanks!

 

[Oyster]

thanks!

Tuf cloth is another option that may be more durable. I use that on some of my blades under the scales and use mineral oil on the blade if I expect to use it for food.
Although I should add that I haven’t used much oil on D3V blades. Wiping after use seems to work just fine.

 

[Keoneloa]

Thanks man, appreciate it...gotta say the fit and finish on this knife is unparalleled...put the new scales on and they feel like they were hand shaped just for my knife. Its my first CPK but definitely not my last—and the unbuffed linen micarta, with a bit of mineral oil to darken them up have just the right tactile feel for me...worth every penny!