EDC edge angle

kniferbro said:
Do y'all use micro bevels? Or just one primary bevel?

I can't seem to get my knives sharp with the Lansky sharpening system without adding a micro bevel. I am perplexed :confused:
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You're probably not hitting the edge. The way to make sure your hitting the edge is to make a burr.
 
kniferbro said:
Do y'all use micro bevels? Or just one primary bevel?

I can't seem to get my knives sharp with the Lansky sharpening system without adding a micro bevel. I am perplexed :confused:
Click to expand...

singularity35 said:
You're probably not hitting the edge. The way to make sure your hitting the edge is to make a burr.
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Ditto. The edge isn't apexed yet (as proven by doing so with the microbevel). I went through the same thing with my Lansky. Make sure you have a burr along the full length of the cutting edge, from the first hone, before proceeding to the next hone.
 
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kniferbro said:
How do I find out if I have raised a burr? Do I need a magnifying glass or something?
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I'd recommend that anyway (a magnifier). Use it under very BRIGHT light. It's very helpful when first trying to figure out burrs, if you're not familiar with them.

When I was using my Lansky, I was in the habit of using the hones with water. I'd keep a couple of paper towels handy for 'mopping up'. I noticed, when wiping the blade with a damp paper towel, a burr on the edge would grab fibers from the paper towel. They'd be left hanging on the burr like little 'flags'. Very easy way to detect if the burr was there. Burrs can usually be felt also, with the end your fingernail/thumbnail. Slide your fingernail from spine toward the edge, on each side of the blade. If a burr is there, it'll likely be 'leaning' or folded over to one side or the other. Your nail will catch on it, on the side it's leaning to. Do this fingernail test in conjunction with using the magnifier, so you can SEE what your nail is finding at the edge. Check the full length of the cutting edge in this manner. You can also find burrs like this, by using the tip of a needle or toothpick, instead of your fingernail. Go about it SLOWLY and lightly. Smaller burrs can sometimes be missed, if you don't make an effort to take it slow and deliberate.
 
I see a big difference in cutting performance going from 40 to 30 inclusive. Have yet to experience any conspicuous edge damage at 28 to 30 degrees - at 22 or so and under is where some steels begin to loose a lot of strength. Even my machetes are done at 30-32 degrees and they hold up pretty well under very tough use.
 
I Have My Native At A Nice 17 Degree Edge, 17 On Each Side, That Thing Is Scary Sharp, And It's My New EDC Lol. 17 Degree And 20 Degree Edges Are My Personal Favorite.
 
A loupe helped me a lot with my sharpening and with my understanding of what I want to achieve. A member here also taught me to reconcile how and edge looked under magnification and how it feels. This tactile familiarity is quite useful to me when I sharpen.
 
Personally, I don't like micro bevels. Except perhaps on lower grade steels that require extra support.

Most of my quality knives are profiled at 15 degrees per side (30 inclusive) or at 12.5 per side depending on the steel.
 
I reprofile at 30 degrees inclusive. That way I can touch up on my Sharpmaker at 40 degrees inclusive without having to worry about hitting the shoulder and not the edge. So in otherwords.... a micro bevel.
 
tomsch said:
I reprofile at 30 degrees inclusive. That way I can touch up on my Sharpmaker at 40 degrees inclusive without having to worry about hitting the shoulder and not the edge. So in otherwords.... a micro bevel.
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This is my thinking exactly! In fact, I re-profiled my full-size Ka-Bar for this very reason!! It took forever even using an Edge-Pro and course stones, but now that it's done, I can do easy, accurate and effective touch-ups on the Sharpmaker.
 
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