If you take a ruler and place it on the knife photo your computer screen ( if you are not on a cell phone), you can see that the tip, the finger groove, and the middle of the butt are all aligned. With the finger groove nearly centered, any pressure from the hand/wrist will be efficiently and equally transferred to the blade. With only half of the blade below that line of force, the knife will deliver that energy without trying to twist in the hand. That means you won't have to grip the knife hard to control it. With the tip to butt curvature staying close to the arc, the knife will fit comfortably in the hand, too. All of this is applied physics ....called HF&E....Human Factors and Ergonomics...which combines a dozen or so sciences into how to make things people use work efficiently.
Other observations:
The thumb ramp and jimping are just enough....and no more. The rise is barely above the arc line. The reverse curve in the blade spine is for looks, but does not affect the physics. It actually lightens the blade.
The split choil is well placed.
Just to be fair, all is not perfect:
The only feature that seems a bit off is the forward handle hole. It is too far forward. The line of force between the thumb and the index finger goes right through that hole. In a heavy cut, especially one with a twist, the knife could fail there. This is called a stress riser. That isn't likely, but these things are what should be considered when placing holes. It would be better placed a bit farther back, directly above the center of the finger groove. As it is, it will barely be under the front of the scales. This will place the front of the handle right at the plunge, leaving no ricasso. That will make sharpening a bit more difficult.
When placing holes, I try to put no hole forward of the front rivet, and the front rivet equal distance from the ricasso as the back rivet is from the butt.
