EDC XIII Which knife or knives are you carrying today?

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Love this g10 texture
 
RugerNurse said:
How has the 1095 held up against rust with edc?
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I haven’t had any major issues to speak of. A few specks here and there that were easily rubbed off. I’ve pocket carried an ESEE daily, in 1095, uncoated, for the past 5 years or so. I live on the coast of South Carolina, about 5 miles from the ocean, it’s very humid here and I sweat a lot. When I get them new, and plan to carry them, I strip the coating, do a quick vinegar patina and let them sit for a day or two. Then I wipe them off with rubbing alcohol and put two coats of wax on them. I use spray car wax, rub it in, let it dry. Then I put a coat of the car wax that you rub on with a sponge and then buff off. Maybe an hour of time invested, if you include stripping the coating. That’s it. I will occasionally repeat the wax process if I feel the need. The only time I use oil is if I’m storing them for a long time, but most of the time I just do the wax thing and put a little chapstick or Vaseline on the cutting edge instead.
 
Lee D said:
I’m pretty much where you’re at, I like the looks but haven’t used it much. I figure the coated ones will have better protection, but I’m not overly concerned with rust.
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Yeah I would imagine that’s the case. But like you, I don’t get too worked up over rust. I use a little car wax on them every so often, because I live in a humid place, and just let nature take its course.
 
JWright214 said:
I haven’t had any major issues to speak of. A few specks here and there that were easily rubbed off. I’ve pocket carried an ESEE daily, in 1095, uncoated, for the past 5 years or so. I live on the coast of South Carolina, about 5 miles from the ocean, it’s very humid here and I sweat a lot. When I get them new, and plan to carry them, I strip the coating, do a quick vinegar patina and let them sit for a day or two. Then I wipe them off with rubbing alcohol and put two coats of wax on them. I use spray car wax, rub it in, let it dry. Then I put a coat of the car wax that you rub on with a sponge and then buff off. Maybe an hour of time invested, if you include stripping the coating. That’s it. I will occasionally repeat the wax process if I feel the need. The only time I use oil is if I’m storing them for a long time, but most of the time I just do the wax thing and put a little chapstick or Vaseline on the cutting edge instead.
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Interesting. Indiana get humid here but not like the coast. I might be ok with just a patina. I love the White River caper but would hate it if I lost it lol. I might try a 1095 Izula. They are easy to get a sharp edge on them.
 
RugerNurse said:
My only other quibble is for almost the same price as the caper you could get a Bradford guardian 3.5 in magnacut or M390
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You can get the N690 versions of the Guardian 3 and 3.5 for a lot closer to $100. The super-steel versions of the Guardian 3.5 are closer to $200 and at least in my case, I need a different sheath. That brings the cost up closer to $250 where I might as well just put it towards a custom.
 
Chronovore said:
You can get the N690 versions of the Guardian 3 and 3.5 for a lot closer to $100. The super-steel versions of the Guardian 3.5 are closer to $200 and at least in my case, I need a different sheath. That brings the cost up closer to $250 where I might as well just put it towards a custom.
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True they do need the Kydex sheath. I always go back and forth if I really need the super steel. For my usage I probably don’t.
 
JWright214 said:
😂Yeah this version is the black oxide and looks like this from the factory. It’s basically just a forced patina. They have the coated ones in various colors as well and the stainless version in a stonewashed finish
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Well I learned something today. I have the black coated one that sits on my truck dash and little man will use it here and there. It was a gift from a member here
 
Chronovore said:
You can get the N690 versions of the Guardian 3 and 3.5 for a lot closer to $100. The super-steel versions of the Guardian 3.5 are closer to $200 and at least in my case, I need a different sheath. That brings the cost up closer to $250 where I might as well just put it towards a custom.
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Good points 👍🏻
RugerNurse said:
True they do need the Kydex sheath. I always go back and forth if I really need the super steel. For my usage I probably don’t.
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I have this issue as well. I’ve come to the conclusion that I don’t need super steels. I’m happy using 1095, 420hc for most of my needs. That said I have started to love 3v on my LT Wright, I love xhp on my Spyderco, and lc200n is awesome when I’m on the water. But I could definitely be just fine without them. Now, if money were no object I would probably own nothing but 3v and xhp.
 
JWright214 said:
Good points 👍🏻

I have this issue as well. I’ve come to the conclusion that I don’t need super steels. I’m happy using 1095, 420hc for most of my needs. That said I have started to love 3v on my LT Wright, I love xhp on my Spyderco, and lc200n is awesome when I’m on the water. But I could definitely be just fine without them. Now, if money were no object I would probably own nothing but 3v and xhp.
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I might pick up an ESEE 3 in 1095. Great outdoor knife. I’ll stop posting random junk on this thread. I know its an EDC pic thread
 
Carrying my new Protech/Emerson CQC7, it came with the black DLC blade but was bead blasted and then a new edge put on.
It's fully automatic with a selector for three round burst and has a 50 round extended magazine.
Edit: To add a pic of it's awesome backspace side. I'm a huge sucker for integrals or integral backspacers.
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