EDCi and ZDP-189

M

Mister Coffee

Joined
Dec 6, 2020
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My friend F FK said that I needed some EDCi Formula to protect my carbon steel knives from rust. River's Edge Cutlery had the product, and I threw an Endura 4 into the cart to make the minimum for Free Shipping. Yeah, I'm that cheap.



EDCi Formula: Since the issue was raised in another thread, I will note that my bottle is labeled "Food Safe."

Endura 4 in ZDP-189: The grooviest of the super steels. Okay, I just made that up. Maybe it's not the grooviest, but Spyderco is no longer making knives in ZDP-189, so I thought I should get one while they were still around. The scale color is listed as "British Racing Green." As you can see in the picture, it looks more like black than green in most lighting conditions. For something closer to British racing green, I prefer Steve McQueen's XKSS.
 
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I just wipe them down with a sentry “tuf cloth”. Wash the knife before you use it for food. I usually have a tuf cloth on my desk and I wipe the gunk and tape residue off my knives when I pass by.
 
Mister Coffee said:
My friend F FK said that I needed some EDCi Formula to protect my carbon steel knives from rust. River's Edge Cutlery had the product, and I threw an Endura 4 into the cart to make the minimum for Free Shipping. Yeah, I'm that cheap.



EDCI Formula: Since the issue was raised in another thread, I will note that my bottle is labeled "Food Safe."

Endura 4 in ZDP-189: The grooviest of the super steels. Okay, I just made that up. Maybe it's not the grooviest, but Spyderco is no longer making knives in ZDP-189, so I thought I should get one while they were still around. The scale color is listed as "British Racing Green." As you can see in the picture, it looks more like black than green in most lighting conditions. For something closer to British racing green, I prefer Steve McQueen's XKSS.
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I am all over ZDP-189. It really holds an edge, and you can sharpen it on Al2O3 stones (like Shapton Glass) because there is no Vanadium Carbide. 1, 2, and 3 are ZDP-189.View attachment 1676079
 
5-by-5 said:
Ballistol smells funny but it's food safe. Anti bacterial, antifungal.
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It’s really food safe?

That must mean anything it touches is safe from being eaten because it smells like a chicken coop after a light August rain. I mean, it smells so bad that even bacteria and fungi won’t go near it.
 
Interesting discussion for STATIC testing.
We use knives for cutting,,, this wipes away many of the protective coatings used in static test.

I prefer a rust preventative that dries to a hard thin coating,,, not a mineral oil or similar liquid.

Have used EDCi on my K390 and HAP-40 laminated,,, absolutely no corrosion or discoloration with medium use knife.
In the past used Boeshield and later Nan-Oil both worked great.
Recently changed to EDCi due to ease of application.

Regards,
FK
 
Mr Coffee,

Enjoy the ZDP-189,, I have Delica, Endura and Stretch in that alloy.
My one bit of advice is when sharpening,,,, use magnification and watch for the retained burr.
Initially with ZDP-189 and DMT diamonds,,,, I struggled with getting a really sharp edge,,,, until I observed a stubborn burr that kept flipping from side to side and giving me false information on apex formation.

Suggest you do not follow the convention wisdom of dragging through wood, cork or other stuff, this will only tear away the burr and leaves a rough ragged apex.
Thin leather strop with diamond paste works great, lift the knife a few degrees higher than the sharpening angle to remove the stubborn retained burr. Then some very light leading edge passes on the finest stone.

Regards,
FK
 
Mister Coffee said:
My friend F FK said that I needed some EDCi Formula to protect my carbon steel knives from rust. River's Edge Cutlery had the product, and I threw an Endura 4 into the cart to make the minimum for Free Shipping. Yeah, I'm that cheap.



EDCi Formula: Since the issue was raised in another thread, I will note that my bottle is labeled "Food Safe."

Endura 4 in ZDP-189: The grooviest of the super steels. Okay, I just made that up. Maybe it's not the grooviest, but Spyderco is no longer making knives in ZDP-189, so I thought I should get one while they were still around. The scale color is listed as "British Racing Green." As you can see in the picture, it looks more like black than green in most lighting conditions. For something closer to British racing green, I prefer Steve McQueen's XKSS.
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Personally for carbon steels I find it simpler to force a patina and take the worry of of maintenance.

I don't have zdp189, seems like a good buy for a endangered sp.
 
FK said:
Mr Coffee,

Enjoy the ZDP-189,, I have Delica, Endura and Stretch in that alloy.
My one bit of advice is when sharpening,,,, use magnification and watch for the retained burr.
Initially with ZDP-189 and DMT diamonds,,,, I struggled with getting a really sharp edge,,,, until I observed a stubborn burr that kept flipping from side to side and giving me false information on apex formation.

Suggest you do not follow the convention wisdom of dragging through wood, cork or other stuff, this will only tear away the burr and leaves a rough ragged apex.
Thin leather strop with diamond paste works great, lift the knife a few degrees higher than the sharpening angle to remove the stubborn retained burr. Then some very light leading edge passes on the finest stone.

Regards,
FK
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Thanks for the tips, F. The knife came with a small chip in the edge. A small disappointment. I'm too damn old to send crap back through the mail every time some little thing goes wrong, so I thought I would try my very amateur hand at fixing it. I was able to strop out the chip using some Bark River green compound on the smooth side of a DLT strop. It's all but gone now, and I think if I go at it again tomorrow, it will be all the way gone. I know that stropping is not "supposed" to be for edge repair, but Bark River green has got something in it that really takes the metal off.

You'll be happy to hear that I'm learning to look at the damn edge — with the naked eye and with magnification. It's not so much the looking, but knowing what to look for. But you know that. Cheers.
 
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Yes, the common posted wisdom is that stropping does not really remove material.
In my experience it all depends upon the compound used on the strop.
Many Aluminum Oxide compounds are abrasive enough to remove material slowly.
That is why I have always advised to use hard thin leather or harder wood as base for stropping.
Presently my favorites are Cubic Boron Nitride and Diamonds,,, they cut much faster with light pressure.
Try an extra fine 1,200 grit diamond stone and then 3 micron diamond on a hard strop,,,, makes a fast polished apex.

Regads,
FK
 
5-by-5 said:
Ballistol smells funny but it's food safe. Anti bacterial, antifungal.
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I've also found Ballistol to work miracles with G-10 handles. Not only does it do a superb job of cleaning but it literally rejuvenates old and faded G-10 handles and makes them look factory new. I actually bought my very first 16 ounce can of it from SFO on their recommendation. There is hardly ever a week go by that I don't use Ballistol for something around the shop. It also seems to work good on Micarta handles too. But for G-10 handles I really don't think there is anything better.
 
JD Spydo said:
I've also found Ballistol to work miracles with G-10 handles. Not only does it do a superb job of cleaning but it literally rejuvenates old and faded G-10 handles and makes them look factory new. I actually bought my very first 16 ounce can of it from SFO on their recommendation. There is hardly ever a week go by that I don't use Ballistol for something around the shop. It also seems to work good on Micarta handles too. But for G-10 handles I really don't think there is anything better.
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Cool. I have mine on my kitchen counter near my sink. I use it nearly once a week. It only takes a small dab on a paper towel to wipe down a blade or clean sticky label glue off of something.
 
I have the ZDP-189 Endura 4 and the cheaper Cara Cara 2. Both got patina and it bugged me.

After trying a few things.. Tuf-Glide. It’s a “one and done” it steals your steel and is resistant to heat and water. I put it on all my stainless and carbon steels and it’s really doing what it claimed.

It works great on moving parts but also the blades themselves. I have tested it on outdoor hardware that’s prone to rusting no matter what and it also works there as well. The stuff is great. You just apply it to a blade and it’s joints liberally and let it sit for atleast ten minutes then wipe off the excess. Seriously.. once and done. I love the stuff wish I woulda found it sooner.
 
I only use mineral oil but Tuf Glide sounds good.
I just wrap the blade of my knife in saran wrap until I need to cut, I cut THROUGH the saran wrap and it protects the sides of the knife from anything. Then you wrap a new piece around 😂
 
Hashishiin said:
I only use mineral oil but Tuf Glide sounds good.
I just wrap the blade of my knife in saran wrap until I need to cut, I cut THROUGH the saran wrap and it protects the sides of the knife from anything. Then you wrap a new piece around 😂
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Dude tuf glide saved me. All my cheaper steel got oxidation marks in pocket. Tuf glide stopped that dead. It’s a one and done I love the stuff.
 
Been using EDCI on A11 Mule for over a year with good results! I apply a quick application once a week when in use, Mostly on RV trips! My Bottle (couple years old) doesn't have food safe anywhere on label!
 
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