Edge Angle

mmarkh

mmarkh

Joined
Jul 16, 2005
Messages
2,150
I just ordered my first Busse, the Game Warden. What is the edge angle that Busse uses?
 
Just the edge. I think the only full convex blade they've offered has been the SJTAC.

At any rate, I like to thin out the factory edges because they tend to be too obtuse for my liking.
 
The Game Warden primary grind is full flat. They are advocating a convex edge bevel. Not a bad choice.

Rick
 
Think the angle is about 20 degree per side. Maybe a bit less.

My GW edge's do not look Convex. Plain edge.
My CS Snake AD is Convex... a thicker edge.

Thought they did away with convex edge from factory a good while back.

I must be really mixed up, and wrong since ones above said the GW's had convex edge:confused:
 
Some one confirm the edge angle please. I may be wrong...big surprise.

And the convex thing.

Thanks!
 
I have found that an edge angle of 24 generaly hits 50% of the convex center, close to the edge itself. I have found that on the convex edges I've seen on busse's, the actually initiating cutting edge itself is somewhere around 30-35, with the majority of the convex portion being 24 degree's or less per side.

sometimes its pretty outrages, like the tip of the pbf's being something like 60 degree's per side. actually steeper then a cubes edge...

The edge itself looks rough, and is cut at a reletively low grit, but the initiating edge is highly polished, allowing it to shave hair almost regardless of its angle. some of the pbfs and pub defenders that has massively obtuse edges would still shave hair great, they just couldn't cut anything without spreading it apart immediately.

but ya, on the newer blades I've found them to be about 30 at the very initiating edge, and 24ish for most of the convex surface.


I'm not sure I've seen a busse edge that was truly v-grind. they all seem to be done on a belt, and are rounded. When you use an apex edge pro, I've always seen the tell tale center of the cutting edge grind off showing it to be convex.
 
On my opinion it is about 50 degree, same as on KaBar I think. And it may vary at the tip or near the choil. Not Convex at least on knives I have (all modern factiry edges I guess sharpened two times - coarse main edge and fine second, which is much thinner and with bigger angle).

And initial sharpness was not very good, below average I say, but it depends. On one Badger I had 130g on thread test - which is pretty bad, but on the next one I got it was 100g. However both I manage to sharpen to extreme hair-splitting sharpness.

Also all Busses have pretty thick edge, so I highly recommend you to use DMT Extra Extra Coarse DiaSharp benchstone (120grit, 120 microns) D8XX to re-profile it initially.

I think Busse apply same edge to GW, AD and MS as to bug chopping knives which is not suitable for small cutters and slicers IMHO.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I am pretty sure you can ask for a thinner edge at least from the company. I asked amy to have a thinner edge put on my SS because I will be using it to slice only and I ordered it with serrations.
 
nozh2002 said:
On my opinion it is about 50 degree, same as on KaBar I think. And it may vary at the tip or near the choil. Not Convex at least on knives I have (all modern factiry edges I guess sharpened two times - coarse main edge and fine second, which is much thinner and with bigger angle).

And initial sharpness was not very good, below average I say, but it depends. On one Badger I had 130g on thread test - which is pretty bad, but on the next one I got it was 100g. However both I manage to sharpen to extreme hair-splitting sharpness.

Also all Busses have pretty thick edge, so I highly recommend you to use DMT Extra Extra Coarse DiaSharp benchstone (120grit, 120 microns) D8XX to re-profile it initially.

I think Busse apply same edge to GW, AD and MS as to bug chopping knives which is not suitable for small cutters and slicers IMHO.

Thanks, Vassili.
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I definitely agree on the thick edge. I've always had a hard time pinpointing what the exact initiating edge angle is because its hard to see the point at wich you actually hit the very apex of the edge with the stone (at least for me). since they appear to be round (If I do 24, the top of the ground cutting edge isn't touched, nor is the bottom towards the apex), the area right at the apex could be rounded a great deal. I've found that the tip's tend to almost double whatever the main cutting area is. I've seen them go from a modest 35 per side degree's at the cutting edge to an unusable 95 per side at the tip (specifically the ergo battle mistress I had, and a little basic 3 a had for a short time). both of the ones I had like that couldn't cut anything at the tip, you simply can't polish an edge that obtuse enough to make it usable.

and I do tend to have to take off a lot of metal to get both sides to an even 24 degree's. I generally get it to 24 at the edge, then do a series of secondary bevels, 21 and 17, just because I don't want to go through the time or effort of grinding off all the metal. The few times I've done it, the ground cutting edge went from about 1/8" tall to almost a 1/2" tall. especially the pbfs, wich took forever even using secondary bevels.
 
You may try DMT D8XX - it is juat a steel eating beast! I make my edge on all Busses I recently bought (Oh SOG! help me to end this madness! HELP ME! help...). And D8XX allows me to spend around hour or so, but my D8XX wear of a liitle bit, but still bites very well.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
mmarkh said:
You guys are scaring me. I didn't want a butter knife.
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Won't be a butter knife:eek::eek:
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Sure it can, you can turn it into a V grind easily...
There has been whole books written on the convex edge here, pop it into the search engine and bone up...

When you think you have it down, then you will run into a Busse with the asymetrical edge:eek::eek:
One V side one Convex!!
 
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