Edge Angle

[MikeyT]

So for those of us with little or no experience profiling an edge (much of this thread reads like greek to me) is it ok to sharpen my EDC tiger warden with a sharpmaker? This isn't going to wreck it?

 

[Greg45]

Sharpening it on a sharpmaker in the conventional way will change the edge from the second example to the first example in the following diagram -

It won't ruin it, though.

Check out this link for some good info - http://users.ameritech.net/knives/index.htm

 

[nozh2002]

You guys are scaring me. I didn't want a butter knife.

How about sandwiching your hair?

Done with Busse Active Duty.

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[steelnut]

That AD has a 1 CM edge Bevel at 9 degrees

 

[nozh2002]

That AD has a 1 CM edge Bevel at 9 degrees

At the point it slice the hair it is 2 2/3mm 3/32". Angle I guess is about 30 degree. Ability to slice hair does not depend too much on angle - it is all up to how clean the very edge is.

Edge itself is conves, I think it is more then 30 degree at the very edge, but it goes to may be 20 may be 15 at the shoulders, and this make bevel looks wider. I always try to round the edge shoulders to have less friction.

So this is not like Yanagiba edge, however it does slice like Yanagiba, only blade itself thicker.

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

I've only held 6 busse's that couldn't cut anything with a factory edge, but those particular models were meant to be tanks more then knives. I carried it as a prybar, and that was what it was best at. After I brought them down to 24 degree's per side, they were good at most cutting chores, and excellent prybars.

That being said, when I say a knife is "obtuse", I'm coming from the idea that 10 degree's or less per side is thin, and the material behind the edge should be no more then half a penny thick, preferably less. but these are for cutting only, rather then heavy chopping and prying and other "abusive tasks". for such things, 30 degree's per side is fine as long as you strop it when it starts to get dull, or touch it up on a stone.

The benefit of a really "thin" edge is that it will stay sharper longer, sometimes even when there is literally no "edge" to speak of, having been blunted to the point of either being perfectly round, or perfectly squared off. The sheer thinness of it is capable of meeting the pressure needed to tear or break apart the material being cut. the smaller the space pressure is applied to, the greater the force against the material is. 20lbs spread across your entire body isn't much, but 20lbs against a sewing needle will sink into you without much resisitence.

In general, every single busse you get from busse combat will be able to shave straight out of the box, and shave very well. above the arm type shaving, where the resistance of the hair itself is enough to get the edge to push cut through it. I've only seen busse's that are unable to do this from the factory on very, very rare occasion.

SO, I didn't mean to frighten you, its just that for pure cutting purposes alone, you can make the edge much thinner then busse sends it out from the factory. However, the edge that they send is perfectly servicable for every day cutting tasks, and will be able to take more abuse and mishandling then a super thin edge can. I don't think that you will be dissatisfied with what you receive, especially on a smaller knife like the gamewarden wich busse tends to grind thinner in general.

 

[nozh2002]

And initial sharpness was not very good, below average I say, but it depends. On one Badger I had 130g on thread test - which is pretty bad, but on the next one I got it was 100g

Today I got Meaner Street and tested factory edge on it. Result this time was very goos - 80g (inspected by#11). So I see that Busse edge may be from very good to not good, I am not sure what this depends on. Same I saw with Swamp Rat also.

Thanks, Vassili.