Edge/Bevel preferences for Traditional Slip Joints

Bevel type preference for traditional slipjoints

  • V bevel

    Votes: 20 69.0%

  • V bevel with a micro bevel

    Votes: 7 24.1%

  • Convex bevel

    Votes: 2 6.9%
  • Total voters
    29
CelloDan

CelloDan

Basic Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
3,377
I hope I worded the terminology correctly.

I will soon have the equipment to apply any of the mentioned bevels to my traditional knives.

I am wondering what you guys would choose if you could just as easily do any of them and why.
 
V Bevel? Is that full-flat ground Dan?! :confused: I like convex grinds, but mainly on fixed-blades :thumbsup:
 
Jack Black said:
V Bevel? Is that full-flat ground Dan?! :confused: I like convex grinds, but mainly on fixed-blades :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I think I need some help ;) :D

What is the proper term for the V shaped bevel that you would put on a FFG knife for example ( or any type of grind really) .
I am referring to the name for just the bevel ( not the type of grind )
 
I go (freehand) with about 15° to a burr on medium and fine. Then I finish with 20°(+) on the fine, to remove the burr and refine the edge. This has been working really well for me, on the only knife I carry lately, that has blades of C70 run a tad soft for my liking.

This has given me slicey blades, with an edge that stands up a little longer. It took me a few tries to discover how to best sharpen this particular jack knife.

That puts me firmly in the micro bevel camp, at least for softish steel blades. Though I bet I'll start sharpening all my other pocket knives the same way, as it has proven to work so well.

Just a thought: I must have a little bit of convex built in, because of the impossibility of keeping angles perfect, freehand sharpening.
 
Last edited:
I am not able to change the polling terminology now.
Here is a picture of the different edges I would be able to apply ( I only included 3 of those in the poll )
I like this type exercises as it helps me be more accurate, especially with my English.

ZuibY1W.png


After using my new guided sharpening system on several knives I see how my freehand on a stone tended to naturally convex itself :thumbsup: .
The guided system edges are a very crisp V.

I am waiting for an add on to my guided system to do perfect convex bevels all the way to mirror polish.

I started just doing a simple V edge with my guided system, after a while I started adding the micro bevels and I like it much better. Waiting to see if a convex bevel on the guided system would be all that much different.
 
V bevel at 15 degrees per side then stropped. Tune ups with ceramic hone then strop which give the edge a microbevel and semi convex edge over time.
 
I have sharpen freehand and don’t measure my angles. The kitchen knives have the spine closer to the stone than the pocket knives. I sharpen a lot (have a local side business doing it. All sorts) and if I had to guess it’s like 17 degrees for kitchen and 22/23 for anything that folds. Thick stuff like hunting knives etc I do even more so like 30. But now I am rambling past the op’s question. Sorry....
 
10 DPS is my preferred edge angle on a knife with "traditional"steels, lie 440A, 420HC, 10xx carbon steel, and whatever it is Victorinox and Opinel ("Carbone" or "Rosfree (spelling?))' use..
From 60 years experience, I know they can handle that acute angle and perform "light" to "heavy"/"hard" knife duties in the shop (cut hose, fan belts, multi strand electrical wire to 8 gauge, strip insulation, scrape gaskets, etc.) and in the field (peel critters, clean fish, cut mono and braided. Dacron fishing line, whittle/carve tent stakes and hot dog/marshmallow sticks, drop a sapling (without batoning), cut rope/cord/twine, etc. without edge damage or rolling.

For more "modern" steels, such as D2, S30V, CPM 154, and although a "traditional" steel, 440C, an more obtuse 12 to 15 DPS seems to work better/last a little longer for some unknown to me reason, after thinning the edge to 10 DPS, then putting on a more obtuse 12 to 15 DPS micro bevel.

Every knife I've ever had that came with a convex edge (pre 1999/2000 Buck 110's, and possibly pre 2000 Old Timer 6OT/7O's, for example) were sharpened to a standard/regular "V" edge, and depending on the knife, a 10 or 15 DPS edge..
 
I only sharpen freehand ending up with a Compound Double Bevel using Diamond Sticks . Works for me and does not take much time .
This may be what you call V Bevel With a Micro Bevel ?????

Harry
 
Old Engineer said:
I only sharpen freehand ending up with a Compound Double Bevel using Diamond Sticks . Works for me and does not take much time .
This may be what you call V Bevel With a Micro Bevel ?????

Harry
Click to expand...

Yes :thumbsup: that is it
( I don’t seem to be able to edit the poll to correct it )
 
I just don't know :D It all begins to sound sinisterly like a Maths or Physics class - my school nightmares :eek:;)

All I can say is I use a DMT Aligner follow their instructions or occasionally, a Sharpmaker . I strop them and the kitchen knives get the Butcher's steel too, the pockets get a diamond rod from time to time. Provided it shaves arm-hair I'm simply content . Whither these angles and convexes lead, I know not ;)
 
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