I've used it all.... used to put a lot of thought and work into this when I was making and sharpening knives semi professionally.
The different edge grinds, and the different main grinds... they all cut. Some a smidge better, some a smidge worse.
I have one folder I went to the work to regrind the blade itself not just the edge to a full flat grind, to a zero secondary bevel(think Mora). It cuts. Better than the hollow grind with a Case factory bevel did? Meh. Not so much. Worse? No not that either. Different, yes.
In practical everyday living, from cardboard boxes to food prep, some game processing, and a bit of woodworking, I can't tell a difference between steels, from 1075 to ATS34, and all between. Nor from one main grind type to another, nor all the edge styles... polished edge or toothy, is a wash.
It all cuts just fine. I went from polished low angle secondarys, to having all convexed, polished and not, to scandy zero bevel edges, and back. It all cuts.
For A while I was using and selling a "tiger edge". Full convex blade grind, with an almost micro bevel flat secondary edge on it.. really acute angle you end with, verry durable, but when polished it would shave a nats nuts... sounded fancy and sold well, but in the end there was no real gain, it cuts just the same as anything else.
I've done water stones, power strops, belt grinders in obscene high grits, oil stones, sandpaper and mouse pads.
In super specialized tasks, I see some little difference once in a while... convex blades and edges drag more in thick meat cutting. Convex is lousy for whittling not because of the cut but 'cause the angle it puts your had to the work... wrist breaker usually. Zero bevel edges damage easily. Sometimes. Sometimes not.
Wood carving requires the sharpest you can get, with a sturdy edge, which changes from chisel/blade profile to profile, and wood to wood being carved! Only constant there is polish it smoother than the proverbial infants ass...
For several years all I did was free hand a verry low secondary bevel, almost a 0 bevel edge on with a ~600 grit belt, then buff with green chrome on a sewn wheel. Then unless I chipped an edge, All I ever did was hit that buffing wheel once a month. Super high polished thin edge, power stropping I called it, fasted sharpening ever, but it cut the same as anything else.
Anymore, I use whatever edge comes on a knife. They all cut. To eventually re-sharpen, I use one of those cheap Smiths $5 carbide V sharpeners. It either matches the factory bevels, or it re does them in a few months. In the interim, I guess I have a v edge with a micro bevel as it re cuts the angles. Done maybe once a month for for my most carried knives. Or as needed if I chip an edge. If I feel fancy I'll run a pass or two on the ceramic V side of it. Big chips I'll take out on a 220 belt at the sander.
As long as it cuts, I don't care what shape it is, if its centered, even side to side, what angle it is, or if its particularly smooth. Sharp is sharp.
I know my friend. Blessed are the ones that are able to take a simple approach to life 
which way I am going to go with my two new knives that I will be using mainly for camping this season.
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)
..but sir, I like to see my reflection on my knives bevels 
