Edge damage from feather sticking with a UF2, tips for improving technique?

Yeah, seriously, it's time to send this one back to the mothership and we can all take a closer look.

If you will contact Jo, you can coordinate return with her. You will be compensated for return shipping and we will replace your knife and add something to the return package to make it worth your time
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Yeah, seriously, it's time to send this one back to the mothership and we can all take a closer look.

If you will contact Jo, you can coordinate return with her. You will be compensated for return shipping and we will replace your knife and add something to the return package to make it worth your time
Click to expand...
LOL…here come all the guys chopping rocks trying to get free stuff from CPK…
 
3fifty7 said:
Do whatever is necessary to make this happen. As great as they appear on the internet they are so much cooler in real life.
Click to expand...

Can confirm this. This one felt incredible in the hand and it will be sorely missed. Reading everyone telling me that I basically should be able to do what I did, with no damage kinda blows my mind. I think I made a good first choice for a serious fixed blade. My only regret is not getting into CPKs sooner!
 
Naftoor said:
Hey friends!

Hopefully this is the right place for this question, but here we go. So I managed to snag my first CPK (yay!), a UF2 specifically. Outside of some cheapie moras, this is my first real fixed blade. I tend to be a kitchen and folder guy so not much fixed blade experience. The thing is a gorgeous monster, fit and finish is beyond reproach.

I figured a feather stick was a pretty good way to break it in. 20 or so cuts into a pine 2x4 (nothing near knots) I noticed there was some edge deflection. No chips, but noticeable under the pad of the thumb and caught the light pretty good. I spent 30-40 minutes stropping on a stone that veers towards fine/extra fine and got most of the damage out, but I was wondering if anyone happens to have any advice or tips and tricks for using fixed blades to avoid it in the future.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Sounds like you should have stuck with your Mora's. I've never damaged my edges through hard woods. 🤣
 
Naftoor said:
Can confirm this. This one felt incredible in the hand and it will be sorely missed. Reading everyone telling me that I basically should be able to do what I did, with no damage kinda blows my mind.
Click to expand...
Yep. Like I said, I've cut tougher stuff than pine, not to mention the blade slipping and slamming into the side of the polymer leg, with no damage at all. I'll admit that I was kinda scared to look at the edge after that, but I was happy to see no damage or anything.
Naftoor said:
I think I made a good first choice for a serious fixed blade. My only regret is not getting into CPKs sooner!
Click to expand...
Me too. But I'm getting caught up now. I have bought several of their knives and have a DEK2 and a UF2 coming.
 
Naftoor said:
Can confirm this. This one felt incredible in the hand and it will be sorely missed. Reading everyone telling me that I basically should be able to do what I did, with no damage kinda blows my mind. I think I made a good first choice for a serious fixed blade. My only regret is not getting into CPKs sooner!
Click to expand...
I think at the beginning you said you are more into kitchen cutlery. But as you already know, outdoor fixed blades, especially the hard use ones have whole different sets of design criterias. You would get edge damage with what you were doing if you were using one of your superhard super thin kitchen knives. But with outdoor knives that is not the case unless you are using a knife with a very delicate grind such as zero grind scandi with acute bevel angles.

A few days ago, I was force cutting 3/4-1 inch thick green tree branches with my Spyderco Bushcraft knife which has zero scandi grind with very acute angles for a scandi (making it an ideal wood carving knife) and the edge got some rolls. After a few swipes with a cheap no name white ceramic stone followed by strop progression the edge was again hair whittling sharp. So, not only the steel, but the grind type, thickness, what you are cutting and how you are cutting all play a role to what happens to your edge. While Spyderco Bushcraft knife sits at delicate outdoor use end of the spectrum, most CPK knives (if not all) lies harduse (often most would consider knife abuse) end of the spectrum. Watch some of CPK videos from youtube to see what kind of abuse they can.
 
Big DJ said:
Nathan your yard is so green it looks otherworldly to a guy from New Mexico.
Click to expand...

I grew up here and even I find this current humidity just staggering. There's enough moisture in the air you could almost swim. The local airlines are launching submarines now. I can't take a rifle with optics outside without the external glass fogging up. There is a real problem with condensation everywhere, I'm running big dehumidifiers in the house and the shop to prevent water damage. It's early in the morning and the dew point is already 70. It is staggering. Yeah, the grass is very green.
 
ronnie hood said:
Every other knife maker - not my fault, scorched earth policy.

Nate - how dare one of my products even think about failure.

The man’s passion and perfectionist attitude set a ridiculously high standard
Click to expand...

Not quite every other maker. But certainly very few. The one I'm thinking of (sorry, no names here out of respect) replaced a knife that had been run over by a riding mower, where broken pieces were shot around the yard. And many others.

But I absolutely agree with your third sentence, which is why I'm a customer here. The relentless testing, the degree of public engagement and angst, the creation of solid community; it's the whole package.

Nathan is practically begging the OP to send that knife in. Big props.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top