Edge on Up Testing before and after sharpening

B

bdaabat

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Jul 2, 2025
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Had a customer drop off a couple knives today. The kitchen knives included an Ikea and a Mac. So...what does the Edge on Up testing reveal?

NOTE: Testing was done using the PT50A tester and the pre-strung test clips.

Ikea before sharpening: 810
Ikea after sharpening: 168

Mac before sharpening: 477
Mac after sharpening: 146

It's nice knowing for certain that the knives are sharper after leaving than when they came in.

Now, time to get to work on doing some more tests!

Bruce
 
bdaabat said:
Had a customer drop off a couple knives today. The kitchen knives included an Ikea and a Mac. So...what does the Edge on Up testing reveal?

NOTE: Testing was done using the PT50A tester and the pre-strung test clips.

Ikea before sharpening: 810
Ikea after sharpening: 168

Mac before sharpening: 477
Mac after sharpening: 146

It's nice knowing for certain that the knives are sharper after leaving than when they came in.

Now, time to get to work on doing some more tests!

Bruce
Click to expand...
Thank you for posting those !
I am a fan of Mac knives (super thin especially at the spine) .

People in the woodworking forum used to ask me and others how do we know when the edge . . . say on a chisel or hand plain blade. . . is sharp enough .
I didn't have the tester but when I took the edge to my arm hair and before the edge got to my arm all the hair on my arm would leap off my arm and hide under the couch . 🤣 (I sharpen in the kitchen which is on one end of the living room ) .

Here's a link to an old post and an image
 
More testing this morning after acquiring some white compound.

Test knives: Mercer and Kiwi

My basic process: P120->600->3 micron felt->1 micron leather belt:

1 (Mercer): 263
2 (Kiwi): 624

Basic + blue compound:
1. 171
2. 226

Roughed up the knives and re-ran the test.
Basic with no compound
1. 362
2. 379

With white compound (2 passes)
1. 178
2. 190

Modified basic:
P120->600->6 micron felt
1. 286
2. 379

Add white compound step with two passes:
1. 181
2. 163


Add two more passes with white compound:
1. 169
2. 150

Add two more passes with white compound (total of 6)
1. 184
2. 169


Interesting.

Bruce
 
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bdaabat said:
More testing this morning after acquiring some white compound.

Test knives: Mercer and Kiwi

My basic process: P120->600->3 micron felt->1 micron leather belt:

1 (Mercer): 263
2 (Kiwi): 624

Basic + blue compound:
1. 171
2. 226

Roughed up the knives and re-ran the test.
Basic with no compound
1. 362
2. 379

With white compound (2 passes)
1. 178
2. 190

Modified basic:
P120->600->6 micron felt
1. 286
2. 379

Add white compound step with two passes:
1. 181
2. 163


Add two more passes with white compound:
1. 169
2. 150

Add two more passes with white compound (total of 6)
1. 184
2. 169


Interesting.

Bruce
Click to expand...
Bruce,
Honestly, I went through a very similar process as you. What I found was my technique wasn’t quite right. Over time I saw my numbers drop significantly as I refined my technique. My expectations for the brands you are sharpening are 100 or less, 120 if I’m being lazy. The knives you are sharpening are pretty decent steel and will sharpen below 90 with some work.
Although stropping paste brand makes a difference, it’s usually how quickly it removes material, not that it doesn’t work.
I find angle and pressure critical in developing a sub 100 apex.

I do not use a felt belt. Do use that and a leather belt?
 
G Gottagofishn : Appreciate your feedback. Your assessment matches my understanding...that I need to continue to focus on my technique. I wouldn't have that understanding without having the ability to objectively test the knives. I'm working on it! I'm considering this all part of the process of figuring out what works and what doesn't.

In the meantime, while I'm continuing to focus on my technique, I'm finding patterns associated with process that I believe are useful today.

Re; Felt belt. Yes, I've been using felt belts and leather belts. What I had been doing was using the felt belt with 3 micron diamond as a deburr process, then leather belt with 1 micron diamond to polish the edge. I was following the pattern that Cliff Curry had been showing in his videos late last year (although, I'm mainly using a belt rather than a leather wheel).

This most recent batch of tests has shown me that I don't need the leather belt step at all in order to get similar sharpness scores.

Curious: what is your process?

Thanks!
Bruce
 
bdaabat said:
G Gottagofishn : Appreciate your feedback. Your assessment matches my understanding...that I need to continue to focus on my technique. I wouldn't have that understanding without having the ability to objectively test the knives. I'm working on it! I'm considering this all part of the process of figuring out what works and what doesn't.

In the meantime, while I'm continuing to focus on my technique, I'm finding patterns associated with process that I believe are useful today.

Re; Felt belt. Yes, I've been using felt belts and leather belts. What I had been doing was using the felt belt with 3 micron diamond as a deburr process, then leather belt with 1 micron diamond to polish the edge. I was following the pattern that Cliff Curry had been showing in his videos late last year (although, I'm mainly using a belt rather than a leather wheel).

This most recent batch of tests has shown me that I don't need the leather belt step at all in order to get similar sharpness scores.

Curious: what is your process?

Thanks!
Bruce
Click to expand...
To start, it sounds like you are most definitely on the correct path.
I grind, when it’s practical, on a Tormek. Beautiful grinds, very repeatable. When I use a belt, I am at a disadvantage as it’s not guided. None the less, the objective is to remove the burr and preserve the “teeth”, unless polishing. For general stropping I use a 1x30 leather belt loaded with Tormek’s honing paste. Microns are a debated topic, I have heard anywhere from 12 to 3 microns with most saying it’s a blend… but it works for me.
I make two to three passes on the belt at low speed (1750) with the angle of the bevel to the belt the critical connection. If your angle is to steep or to much pressure and you round the apex, to shallow and you don’t hit the apex. I look to see if the burr is gone, if not, more passes untill there is no burr or just fragments checking after every pass. Once the burr is nearly or just gone I test. If the score is above 200 another pass on the honing wheel or belt. Once I am within 20 or 30 points from my target, I will step down in mu or switch to diamonds if I’m going to.
This process will yield sub 100 numbers routinely once you get things adjusted.
I followed Vadim Karichuck, from Australian Knife Grinders (Knife Deburring Book) and attempted to duplicate his efforts. The issue became, he could afford way more equipment than me. By and by I discovered technique will deliver the results I wanted with minimal equipment. I have tried a variety of pastes and found, it really didn’t make a huge difference in results. Some definitely work faster, but in the end, you are just removing the burr and refining the apex. Now I use two, maybe three pastes on different leather belts for belt grinds and a couple of leather wheels, for the Tormek.
I am familiar with Cliff’s work, but have not attempted to duplicate it.

To simplify things (assuming the blade is apexed), In the end, I believe you will find the angle you strop at and the amount of pressure you use dictates your end result.
 
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Try Edge Pro Apex with Shapton Glass stones (available through Chef Knives To Go):
220 , 500 , 1000 , 4000 , Norton Yellow Water stone (Edge Pro stone) 8,000
If you slightly debur with each stone , use a stone thickness compensator and finesse the 8,000 (go really light & set it so you can do a partial stroke edge leading then edge trailing a partial stroke (very light stropping on the 8,000 stone) .

No felt and no belt .

Careful you don't cut off something you need . ;)

Forgot to mention reprofile to ~ 14 or 15 degrees no micro bevel .
 
Thanks for the feedback G Gottagofishn and Wowbagger Wowbagger

At this point, I'm not going to re-invest in an entirely new sharpening system. That's just not practical or economic for me right now. Of course, if someone wants to sponsor me, I'd be happy to chat! :cool:

I'm going to continue to keep testing and working to refine my technique using the sharpening systems I currently own (mainly using WS KO Mk2).

What I've learned in the short time of having the ability to objectively test has been super helpful! The bottom line for me is that my customers are thrilled with their knives. I'm looking forward to continued testing, learning, and optimizing my process.

Bruce
 
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