Edge Pro diamond stone

udtjim

udtjim

Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
6,583
I have heard mixed reports on the edgeMaker diamond stone. Any thoughts on it here.
 
I've found it to be quite useful, especially in reprofiling, and edge repair.

Be aware though, that it's thickness is different from the waterstones, and the machine will require adjustment.
 
Thanks for the reply. I mounted a 2 inch diamond stone on a home made stone holder, it works well but it's a little wide for some re curves.
 
I have a 2X6 inch DMT XC mounted on a standard EP blank as well. It has it's uses, but the EP diamond hones are far more versatile.

I've been considering the purchase of a DMT XC 1X4 inch hone to mount on an EP blank.

It would require considerable care in use, I imagine, but it would be quite useful in certain circumstances, I think.

Has anyone tried it????:confused:
 
I am looking at the one inch ones. My son had half a dozen or so 2 inch stone blanks made and he gave me three of them. I have the DMT XC, C and fine 2x6 stones mounted. The down side is that they are pretty darn heavy. I have also though about mounting the Aligner stones on blanks. I just got several grits of Micron PSA for my tape blanks.
 
I've read that Ben Dale says his coarse waterstone is more aggressive than his diamond hone. I've used the coarse to re-bevel Queen and Dozier D2, and it takes a really long time. My XXC DMT re-bevels D2 in a fraction of the time (and yes, I frequently lap my coarse to keep it cutting aggressively).

What are your experiences with the Edge Pro diamonds on the super steels like D2 or S30V? After so much experience, I've got to believe there are faster ways to rebevel than the coarse waterstone.
 
I have heard that the EP stones, Diamond, don't last very long. HOWEVER I have yet to try them. Only the DMT. I would like to have one of 2x6 DMT's cut to one inch wide.
 
The diamond stones are quite good, though as mentioned above, thinner than the normal stones. The Fine is coarser than the Coarse waterstone, and cuts a lot faster. The SuperFine is also very coarse, on some wear-resistant steels this is also coarser than the Coarse waterstone.. That's how they start out, eventually as they wear, they do become 10x finer, but also cut 10x slower.
 
cotdt said:
The diamond stones are quite good, though as mentioned above, thinner than the normal stones. The Fine is coarser than the Coarse waterstone, and cuts a lot faster. The SuperFine is also very coarse, on some wear-resistant steels this is also coarser than the Coarse waterstone.. That's how they start out, eventually as they wear, they do become 10x finer, but also cut 10x slower.
Click to expand...

Good explanation. :)

They do indeed wear faster than DMT hones, but I've used them for re-bevelling S90V and CPM M-4 with very good results.

And they certainly aren't as expensive as DMT hones. :thumbup:
 
I've been using DMT 1x4 diamond stones for months now. I made some stone blanks and mounted the DMT's to them with contact cement. No matter what stones you use you should always use the Sharpie on the blade edge for each stone to ensure your angles.
 
Are the 1x4 inch continuous diamond? I have a couple extra blanks. I might have to try the EP diamond too.
 
I use a set of eze-lap 1x6 diamond plates mounted on edge pro blanks and have a DMT EEF 1x4 aligner mounted as well.

Sharpie or a small bulldog clip on the pivot arm lets you adjust for varying heights of stones.

The eze-laps work well on all but very tight recurves and no lapping or changing heights between stones to account for wear. A black marker line on the DMT plate lets me know where the top of that stone is so I don't overshoot the edge too often.
 
I'll try to explain.

I set up my edge-pro using a polishing blank, thinnest stone of the set and consistent in height. Here I set the blue dot as my mark. You will see various stones move the blue dot up or down, but my angles remains consistent and I'll end up back on blue with the polish tapes.

DSC00020.jpg


Once I've set the arm at the desired height, either going on the dots or using the sharpie marker, I take my blank and hold it by the arm. I then put the bulldog clip on the arm and sitting on top of my blank. Try not to bump the clip from now on!

DSC00021.jpg


Loosen up the locking pin and slide the arm up, but the stone you wish to use against the arm and lower until the bulldog clip again touchs the top of the stone. Using the eze-laps this position is the same for all the stones. Using the water stones with varying degrees of wear on them you will reset for each stone.

DSC00022.jpg


This puts me on the bevel each time I change stones, there is a slight variance but it's really very small. It also means I can go from eze-lap to DMT to polishing tapes very easily. Hopefully the pictures show what I mean.

The blue line shows me where the four inch DMT EEF ends

DSC00023.jpg


and the various stones and plates

DSC00018.jpg



Hope this makes it clear lads.
 
Haha... pretty cool. I figured out the exact same method. Here's a pic for both the Pro and the Apex....

1267993727-EP_AngleAdjust.jpg


On the Pro, the stone goes between the clip and the base. On the Apex between the clip and the arm.

I then switched to a "drill stop collar"... little more stable. Here's a sample with the Apex showing a thick, then thin stone...

1267994261-EP_AngleAdjust02a.jpg



Great minds think alike!!

cbw
 
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