Edge pro question

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prochargerfreak2005

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Jun 20, 2010
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Hey all.I recently just pulled the trigger and bought myself an edge pro apex 4 kit hopefully I will catch on quick.Now all I need are some sharpie's.My question is I was consering buying myself an angle cube now my Question is say I set the cube up the angle that will show on the arm is that the total edge angle or per side.Also anyone have tips on how to feel and remove a burr hopefully Iam making sense with my question's.If anyone has some advice, or tips and tricks it willl be greatly appreciated.


take care guys

Justin

okay one last question what is an easy way to remove black marker from a blade ?
 
As far as getting the marker off, it will come off when you sharpen the knife unless you got sloppy. For that I keep a can of brake clean on my bench, takes it right off. For feeling the burr that comes with experience you'll feel a slight resistence when you pull your finger tips across the blade that would be the burr it's just something you get the feel for after you've done a few blades. For setting angle I usually go by the original edge and sharpen to that.
 
The angle marking dots on the Edge Pro are per side and are increments of three. I can never remember-I don't use the marks-I think it's 15,18,21,24 degrees
 
I think Sharpie(tm) markers use alcohol-based inks.
I use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) to remove the marker.
 
I just rub it off with my thumb if I screw up:confused:... use will take it off as well.;)

I had an angle cube for my EP4, then just started sharpening by the angle I felt was right for the blade I was sharpening.
 
Let's see: The angle shown on the cube is the one relative to whatever it is sitting on when you hit the "zero" button. In the case of the edgepro, you'd want to 'zero' it sitting on the blade table. Then it will give you the angle per side. Double the number it gives you for the inclusive bevel.

Feeling the burr is fairly easy, and it shows up well under bright light. I drag my thumb nail across the edge (from spine to edge) and feel for a little catch. Another easy way is to pull a cotton ball or a q-tip down the edge from heel to tip. Places with burrs will snag hairs from the cotton ball and be easy to spot visually. Removing the burr is a matter of light touch, the lighter a touch you use, the less burr you will build up. Also, a couple stropping passes on leather after you are finished with the EP will remove anything left.

The marker comes off easily with rubbing alcohol, denatured alcohol, nail polish remover, or even a careful rub with your thumb. It doesn't penetrate steel at all, so it's just laying on the surface.
 
Watch the DVD, then watch the DVD again, call Ben Dale (he's a talker and all around good guy)

If you want to find out what a burr is, get a $1 knife at walmart, put on your coarse stone, set the angle to blue (24°) and start working, chances are in a couple minutes or less (depending on how much pressure you apply to the stone) you'll be able to feel the burr and see it.

I don't worry about marker on my blades because I don't need it anymore, but to be helpful, simply use the marker only on the bevel.

Removing the burr, green polishing compound works like a charm, apply it to whatever medium you desire, from your pants leg to a piece of paper, the key is technique and a very light touch.

Tips, take your time, and on user knives I don't tape the table.

Get a couple extra suction cups, get a few extra coarse stones, a couple extra medium stones and an extra fine stone.

600 grit is what I think is a great grit for EDC knives, I usually pop the angle just below the colored markers on the angle guide to accommodate using the ceramic hone, which is 1,200 grit and quite handy to keep in the kitchen.

Mirror polished edges can become an obsession, get a couple paint stick and a few extra stone blanks, some 2,000 grit sandpaper and a flat surface, plane the paint sticks and apply whatever micron polishing compound to the paint sticks.

The tips and tricks to using the system abound, from experience though I can tell you that it can handle hatchet heads, machetes and the only thing that is still hard for me is tiny blades, like those found on SAKs.
 
I have found the angle cube to be invaluable for consistent setting of the stone arm when changing stones. Stone wear, different brands of stones, diamond hones, etc will all change the sharpening angle.

Of course, these can be compensated for with ink and a loupe, but the angle cube requires infinitely less effort, and is more precise. I must say, it's a very worthwhile investment if you are interested in precision.:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Between an angle cube, the sharpie, and a drill stop collar you can come darn close to absolute perfection in repeatability from stone to stone. Where the angle cube buys you a lot is when you're setting your first stone. It lets you pick a numerical value for the edge bevel, that's not possible by other methods. That makes life a *lot* easier if you want to use another system to touch it up between sharpenings. For instance, I have profiled a number of knives to a 14-degree-per-side bevel, or a 19-degree-per-side. That lets me use the Sharpmaker's 30 or 40 degree slots for touch-up and leave just a tiny microbevel at the very edge. That would be very difficult to do without the angle cube, given that you would have to more or less guess based on the EP's markings.
 
Komitadjie said:
Between an angle cube, the sharpie, and a drill stop collar you can come darn close to absolute perfection in repeatability from stone to stone. Where the angle cube buys you a lot is when you're setting your first stone. It lets you pick a numerical value for the edge bevel, that's not possible by other methods. That makes life a *lot* easier if you want to use another system to touch it up between sharpenings. For instance, I have profiled a number of knives to a 14-degree-per-side bevel, or a 19-degree-per-side. That lets me use the Sharpmaker's 30 or 40 degree slots for touch-up and leave just a tiny microbevel at the very edge. That would be very difficult to do without the angle cube, given that you would have to more or less guess based on the EP's markings.
Click to expand...

Your points ae very well made, sir.:thumbup:
 
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