Edge Pro Questions

Joined
Feb 4, 2009
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I am buying an used edge pro from a member here and have a couple questions.

to start off, I've read and watched pretty much everything I can involving technique, etc. I'm buying the apex 4 kit with the stones that go up to 1000 and tape that goes up to 3000. Is this a high enough grit to achieve a consistent mirror polish on the edge or should I buy the 6000 as well?

I probably will buy the 6000 in the future because I am sick in the head, but I want to know if it is possible with 3000.

also, is stropping necessary? I know all the tricks to strop on the edge pro, but the only good compound I have is 1 micron diamond on leather.

Thanks in advance.
 
Give me another day or so and I'll let you know.

Was hoping mine would arrive today but it looks like it'll be tomorrow.
I have the Edge Pro Professional coming.
 
1000 grit always gives me a nice mirror polished edge.

The polishing tapes are overkill IMO. Too much work if you like to regularly sharpen your knives.
 
Greetings Heiheit: The EdgePro is and excellent system but it is not perfect. A minor variance in how and where the blade is held on the table edge or a change in the downward pressure of the stone arm can change the angle of contact on the edge being sharpened. This is not readily noticeable when re-profiling or when removing a lot of metal. As the sharpened edge develops it becomes more important. When getting down to the finer grits on the VERY edge, PRECISE repetition of stone arm pressure and PRECISE blade position/stone contact point become substantially more important. The target area (the cutting edge) is tiny. You may wish to use the sharpie trick each time you MOVE THE BLADE on the table or CHANGE to a higher grit stone. This will let you see what is really happening vs. what you think is happening as you progress. To a novice like me, only the presence of a burr on the opposite side indicates that the very edge has been reached and passed. The lowest grit stone is thicker than the others ,which requires a slight adjustment in contact angle when switching to a higher grit stone. If the contact angle of each new stone, relative to the edge is not just about exactly equal to the angle and contact point of the previously used stone you may wind up with less than stellar results. While familiarizing myself with the Edgepro, I would get a great edge with one stone but wind up removing it with the next stone of higher grit. The same condition can result when moving the blade edge along the table. Use LESS stone pressure and MORE contact point consistency. EdgePro stones become dished with use. Make sure your USED stones are in fact dressed FLAT. Just because they look flat doesn't mean they are flat. Minor variances in stone contact angle, contact pressure and flatness may not prevent getting a very sharp edge but they will frustrate you in obtaining an EXTREMELY sharp edge. Use the Sharpie marker and look with a lens, if necessary. Less pressure and higher consistency of repetition, obtaining a bur and patience were key for me. The EdgePro will maintain a precise stone angle YOU must maintain a consistent blade edge position. As Noctis3880 stated the tapes are definitely overkill. They load up quickly and are, in my opinion unnecessary expense. Hand stropping still gives me the best final result. Keep the stones away from heat and solvents. They both attack the adhesive holding the stones to the backing plates. The EdgePro is very capable of producing a very fine, uniform, clean and cosmetically appealing edge. If not included with your purchase, you may wish to order an additional 120 and 220 grit stone ,especially if you are inclined to reprofile a lot of blades. They wear out the fastest. *** PRACTICE ON A FEW BEATER KNIVES FIRST. OldDude1
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. Extremely helpful information.

Olddude1, Thanks again. I have another question; What can I use to flatten stones? I don't have any dmt plates or the flattening kit. I've heard I could use anything from a sidewalk to sandpaper.
 
Sandpaper on a glass plate works well, as does sand on a glass plate, from what I've heard.
 
Personally, I use my DMT stones, although it is *not* recommended, due to the risk of tearing out the diamonds.
 
A rather inexpensive but effective method of leveling the stones, is by working the stone face with builder's sand on a concrete block. DO NOT USE BEACH SAND. Beach sand, most often, contains residual salt. The salt can be transferred to the pores of the EdgePro stones and from them to your blades. The stones do not have to be perfectly flat in order to cut a good edge. If you wish to see if your stones are worn enough to require leveling, put a sheet of medium grit sandpaper on a flat surface. A pane of glass is good. Or put some sand on a concrete block. Draw a line down the middle of the stone face from end to end with a sharpie marker or make an "X" from corner to corner. Rub the stone lightly up and down on the flat sand paper or concrete block. Any area where the marker is not scuffed up by the paper is where the stone is dished (lower). Apply slight pressure to the backing plate while continuing to rub in a CIRCULAR motion, concentrating the pressure in those areas of the stone that have already had the marker line abraded. This will level the high spots to match the lowest point and remove as little stone surface as possible. Once all the marker line is equally scuffed off, the stone is flat again. OldDude1
 
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