Edge Pro Reprofiling: How much time?

singularity35

singularity35

Joined
Mar 1, 2010
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I just got my edge pro apex and I'm trying to reprofile my saber ground E4. I have spent about 6 hours more or less on just trying to set the bevel at 18 per side. Is amount of time about right or am I doing something wrong?

The 120 grit stones I got with it is the bluish one and it does not seem to cut very aggressively. If I'm not mistaken the white 220 grit even seems to cut faster.

I need input guys, thanks.
 
You could try to wear away some of the stone with some sand on a piece of glass. If that doesn't work, then I'm disappointed to say that Ben might be using substandard abrasives in that particular stone, as this isn't the first time this has happened.
 
Noctis3880 said:
You could try to wear away some of the stone with some sand on a piece of glass. If that doesn't work, then I'm disappointed to say that Ben might be using substandard abrasives in that particular stone, as this isn't the first time this has happened.
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I did try lapping it on some sandpaper on glass. Same-O, same-O.

The last fraction of a millimeter before the edges meet seems to be the hardest.
 
Sounds like you need to contact Ben at Edge Pro. Mine cuts very very fast. You must have a defective stone.
 
singularity35 said:
I just got my edge pro apex and I'm trying to reprofile my saber ground E4. I have spent about 6 hours more or less on just trying to set the bevel at 18 per side. Is amount of time about right or am I doing something wrong?

The 120 grit stones I got with it is the bluish one and it does not seem to cut very aggressively. If I'm not mistaken the white 220 grit even seems to cut faster.

I need input guys, thanks.
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I'd say that you were having some problems. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes to re-profile an edge of most steels. 20 minutes might be the longest I've ever needed to establish an edge angle on 4"-5" blades.

Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
I'd say that you were having some problems. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes to re-profile an edge of most steels. 20 minutes might be the longest I've ever needed to establish an edge angle on 4"-5" blades.

Stitchawl
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Yes, the 120 grit was really slow then I think it stopped cutting altogether because I really can't reach the edge with this. I have spent almost the whole day today trying to reach the edge and it's just a fraction of a millimeter and it hasn't moved since this morning. The bevels that have been established have just gotten really shiny. Scratches are no longer visible to my naked eye unless I use a loupe.

Should I try reaching the edge with the 220?
 
singularity35 said:
Yes, the 120 grit was really slow then I think it stopped cutting altogether because I really can't reach the edge with this. I have spent almost the whole day today trying to reach the edge and it's just a fraction of a millimeter and it hasn't moved since this morning. The bevels that have been established have just gotten really shiny. Scratches are no longer visible to my naked eye unless I use a loupe.

Should I try reaching the edge with the 220?
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I would. If you can see some progress with the 220 stone at least you will have identified the source of the problem. But from what you said about the stone actually polishing the steel and removing the scratch pattern is really proof enough that the stone is at the root of the problem. Try the 220 for just 10 minutes and see what results you get.

Just to check... you ARE using the stone wet, aren't you. After all, these are water stones (unless Ben is no longer using waterstones,) and it's the slurry on the surface that should be doing the work.

Stitchawl
 
stitchawl said:
I would. If you can see some progress with the 220 stone at least you will have identified the source of the problem. But from what you said about the stone actually polishing the steel and removing the scratch pattern is really proof enough that the stone is at the root of the problem. Try the 220 for just 10 minutes and see what results you get.
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Thanks, yes I'll try that.

stitchawl said:
Just to check... you ARE using the stone wet, aren't you. After all, these are water stones (unless Ben is no longer using waterstones,) and it's the slurry on the surface that should be doing the work.

Stitchawl
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Yes, I have actually been soaking them since I got them.
 
Could be a number of issues. The 'bluer' stones didn't seem as aggressive as the 'grayer' ones, but it certainly cut better than the 220, and there was no difference after it was lapped.

What grit sandpaper did you lap it with? If it's finer than the stone, you'll basically smooth it over, and it won't cut as well. This is very noticeable on the 120 stone.

The stone can also load up, reducing its effectiveness. If it cut and then quit cutting, this is part of the problem.

There is a chance that it's a bad stone also, so letting Ben know is a good idea.

cbw
 
Well, so I received Ben's reply. He says that I really just have to lap the stone on Silicon carbide or sand. I will be trying that, let's see how that goes.
 
For me, reprofiling time depended much more on the thickness of the primary grind rather than the type of steel. I took my CS Trailmaster waaay down, and that involved removing a LOT of metal, and yes, getting that last millimeter to the edge takes the longest of all, but even that only took me about 1.5 hours. Most knives are in the 10 - 30 minute range, max. I use a LOT of water to clean off my stones while I'm doing this.

I used an 80 grit that Ben used to sell, and would almost use up the whole stone to take that blade down to a good bevel. But it was worth it!

I'm starting to get lazy and use my belt sander now, MUCH faster. But not as pretty...
 
So I tried lapping sand on glass, cinder blocks and the 120 still cuts really slow. I think I may have to buy another 120 grit stone.

With the way mine cuts now reprofiling will take several days of almost full time work. Piss poor luck on my part.
 
That sucks. Must be something wrong with the stone. Mine cuts very fast. The stone wears out fast too. Dishes out quickly, but it cuts so fast it makes reprofiling a breeze!
 
ricklee4570 said:
That sucks. Must be something wrong with the stone. Mine cuts very fast. The stone wears out fast too. Dishes out quickly, but it cuts so fast it makes reprofiling a breeze!
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Dang right it sucks but there's nothing else for it but to buy another and hope it'll be better. Without a 120 grit, the apex's usefulness is cut in half, IMHO.
 
A lot of EdgePro users use stones other than those sold by the company. There are lots of diamond stones that will fit, plenty of smaller water stones, etc. I had some nice Japanese water stones cut by a local lapidary shop into pieces that will fit on an EdgePro blank. I also had some cut twice as wide to use when doing large blades. Don't feel constrained to use only EdgePro stones. There are plenty of other choices and the device itself still does its sweet job of producing perfect edges. Just think outside the box. Use the tool. Don't let it use you!! :thumbup:

P.S. There are several good lapidary shops in Manila. Also in Cebu and Davao, etc. LOTS of em! No need to write to the States.

Stitchawl
 
singularity35 said:
So I tried lapping sand on glass, cinder blocks and the 120 still cuts really slow. I think I may have to buy another 120 grit stone.
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I really don't think it's the stone. Finding the proper way to lap it makes all the difference. If you're not seeing a difference after lapping it, then your method isn't working, and you'll end up with the same issue, even with a new stone. If you don't solve this, you won't solve the problem with a new stone. I'd see if you can find a local place to get some really coarse SiC powder and try that. Mark the stone and lap it enough until the mark is removed completely. If you order another stone from EP, I would at least order a bag of the SiC he sells, and try that.

I previously lapped mine on a XXC DMT stone, and the difference was still night and day when I switched to the SiC powder. It surprised me how much of a difference it made, and I had been using the EP for years. I really believe proper lapping will solve your problem.

cbw
 
I wouldnt think you need to lap a new course stone. As a matter of fact, I dished the heck out of my course stone reprofiling and never worried about lapping it. If your just trying to remove a lot of metal, it shouldnt matter as much. I have even used it dry with no problem.
 
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